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Discussion Starter #1
So I ordered the NAPA Ultra Premium Rotors along with Hawks HPS Ferro-Carbon pads.

I've been reading through the how to and FSM, wondering if there are any specific pitfalls to watch out for. I've seen brake jobs done at meets before, but it's been years. This is my first run at it personally, but I figured if I've done my own timing belt/water pump I should man up and do this myself.

I know I need to pick up brake grease, new synthetic brake fluid, and probably be better off renting a tool to compress the piston instead of doing something make shift.

I'll be swapping in new Calipers too, had them on the shelf for a long time.

I'm thinking now I should replace the parking brake shoes as well, they are pretty much shot.
 

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Brakes are realtively easy to do and the more you do it the easier it gets and the more tricks you pick up as you go. Generally to compress the piston most people just use a C-clamp (which works fine) but I guess if you wanted a specific tool then you could grab one of these http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIS0/24400/N0675.oap?ck=Search_N0675_-1_291&pt=N0675&ppt=C0067
at your local O'Reillys for cheap.

Just make sure you fully compress the piston, lube everything up real nice, and completely bleed the brakes to ensure that you don't run into (ha get it?) any problems down the road. Some jobs I have done have taken exponentially longer just because I either overlooked something or didn't completely do something.
 

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On front brakes, before removing caliper, put on a couple of lug nuts to lightly clamp the rotor to the hub then just stick a large straight-blade screwdriver into one of the rotor vent slots and pry against the caliper to push the piston in. Similar on rear except you don't have the vent slots, so you'll be prying directly agains the rotor surface - but since you're replacing the rotors, that should not be a problem.

On the new calipers, I would think the pistons are already compressed. If not, use a C-clamp. Don't over-think it.
 

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on the fronts, the calipers rotate in backwards from each other. One side goes in from top to bottom while the other side goes in bottom to top.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, I have plenty of C clamps so I'll just give those a try if it really is that easy.
 

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This just another question more than a reply,I just left my auto parts store was there to buy rear pads snd shoes he asked me a question .do I have all wheel ABS or just ABS. I can not find much in the little owners manual or any labelling etc. 02 Intrepid rt 3.5 are there any guesses? thanks
 

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If you are replacing the calipers, why compress them? I guess you are maybe only replacing only two of the four.

I second (or third) the use of pry bars and screw drivers to compress the calipers.

I lube all slides, all rubbers, and the backs of the pads when I do it. A little goes a long way, but I slather it on anyway.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 

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Can someone tell me the easiest way to get the actuater off the parking brake cable it is more or less inside the backing plate,very little space.and mine is seized, I;m sure it will loosen in minutes in a bench vise.And yes my car does have all wheel ABS so I don't know what the parts man was talking about.
 

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Make sure you follow the proper FSM bleeding procedure. IRC you have to jump around the corners in a specific order to make sure you get all the air out. For brake grease dielectric grease does the same job. Make sure to clean the guide surfaces really well so that the caliper and pads can move correctly. Changing the parking brake shoes wouldn't be a bad idea. I had the brake material separate from the metal of the shoe on my Intrepid and they weren't that worn. Good luck!
 
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