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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

I have a 2000 chrysler LHS with 43,000 miles on it. One of the main issues im having with it is that the brake pedal would go down a bit too far when im braking. Sometimes it does it and sometimes it dont. Ive gotten a brake oil flush which seems to not have done anything. I would like for when i hit my brake pedal, i get brakes right away. Not a couple second delay then full brakes. I have no lights on on the dash but this worries me since im use to more of a have high brake pedal. Does anybody know what can cause this?
 

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Possible master cylinder going, possibly sticking wheel cylinder (caliper), brake booster could have vacuum leak. If there is no fluid leaking, could be as simple as needing to bleed the brakes, or could be a very dangerous problem if the master cylinder is failing.
 

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judging from your mileage alone, I don't think it's the m. cyl. I'd lean more to air in the system which needs to be bled out.
 

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Brake booster is easy to diagnois. With the engine off you should get a couple of braking applications with assist before you use up the vacuum in the booster.

My guess is on the master cylinder. Air would cause spongey brakes and you say you already had it bled.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If i shut the engine off and hit the brakes, i have normal brakes until i pump it for a little bit. So that right there rules out that i have a booster issue..Is there anyway to check the master cylinder? Also, is it normal for the car to be at idle and while the car is idling i can have my foot on the brake pedal and while my foot is on the brake pedal, i can just feel the pedal go down more???
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've taken it to a shop where i've got my brakes done at and they've indicated that my brakes are fine. Also, my intrepid use to do the same thing...All in all i had brakes with both cars. I have better brakes with the LHS...As a matter of fact I took my car 3 weeks ago and they did a brakes fluid flush and the mechanic said that the brakes seemed fine....Weird huh
 

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Do you have ABS? If so then maybe the circuit isn't properly bled and needs to be done by the dealer only. They need to use a DRB III tool to activate the ABS controller to cycle it and properly bleed the brakes. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
so maybe i should just take it in to the dealer and have them check it out??? Their prices are outrageous!!
 

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bobtent said:
so maybe i should just take it in to the dealer and have them check it out??? Their prices are outrageous!!
I was just pointing out that a shop with a DRB III needs to do the ABS controller cycling to do the correct bleeding procedure on an ABS equipped car(LH series). Whether you decide to take it to a dealer is up to you....and yes I agree they are expensive. I was just letting you know the possibility of the ABS having something to do with your problem.
 

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bobtent said:
If i shut the engine off and hit the brakes, i have normal brakes until i pump it for a little bit. So that right there rules out that i have a booster issue..Is there anyway to check the master cylinder? Also, is it normal for the car to be at idle and while the car is idling i can have my foot on the brake pedal and while my foot is on the brake pedal, i can just feel the pedal go down more???
99% of the time, if your pedal drops with very light pressure, it is an internal leak in the master cylinder.
Do this test:

with the car idling - push really hard as in panic stop. If the pedal is firm and doesn't move in 3 or 4 seconds, then release the pedal. Now, just rest you foot on the pedal with barely the weight of your foot.
If it slowly goes doen, the master cylinder is faulty.
If not, then have the brakes blead properly -ie: left front, right rear; right front, left rear. This goes for ABS or non-abs cars.
Be sure to use (or the shop does) a clear plastic tube on the bleader, into a bottle with fluid, so that there is no possibilty of air going back into a wheel cylinder.
You should do the bleed cycle on the fronts at least 5-6 times & the rear 10-12 times to ensure that you are getting fluid fully through the system, and make sure that the fluid level in the MS doesn't drop too far during it.
Once you've done these two proceedures, if you still have problems, it is time to pull each wheel to look for caliper problems, either leaks (most likely) or seized.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Been away for a while i will try that today and then get back to you....With what you just told me to try I notice that if i'm at a light and i have my foot on the break pedal, i can feel it go down sometimes....what's that about?
 

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bobtent said:
Been away for a while i will try that today and then get back to you....With what you just told me to try I notice that if i'm at a light and i have my foot on the break pedal, i can feel it go down sometimes....what's that about?
See previous answeres, basically the same diagnosis - internal leak of the master cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I tried it and it didn't work....I guess im gonna have to bleed the brake system... As said before, the brake pedal only goes down when im at a light or something.. I can have my foot on the pedal and it would just randomly go down. Weird huh?
 

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bobtent said:
I tried it and it didn't work....I guess im gonna have to bleed the brake system... As said before, the brake pedal only goes down when im at a light or something.. I can have my foot on the pedal and it would just randomly go down. Weird huh?
I'd still say it is an internal leak in the master cylinder. For the cost of one, I'd be inclined to just change it for safety's sake.
You may find one day soon, that it will fail completely - at a bad time.
 

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I was just pointing out that a shop with a DRB III needs to do the ABS controller cycling to do the correct bleeding procedure on an ABS equipped car(LH series). Whether you decide to take it to a dealer is up to you....and yes I agree they are expensive. I was just letting you know the possibility of the ABS having something to do with your problem.
Would this scan tool work instead of an DRB III?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vident-iLink450-Full-Service-ABS-SRS-TBA-EPB-DPF-Oil-Diagnostic-Scanner-Tool/183048072092?hash=item2a9e83eb9c:g:RwAAAOSwICpaTIXz
 

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I don’t know about the scan tool, but another thing that will cause the brake pedal to go down too far is some one putting too many anti rattle clips on the brake pads & seizing the brakes up which overheats the fluid , then you go from having fair brakes to almost no brakes!
I didn’t do this someone I asked to do my brakes because I really didn’t feel like doing it really helped me “ out” so that’s why I do my own work!!
 
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