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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hi guys, I have a 99 intrepid 2.7L ... and the brakes have gone really bad, you have to push the pedal all the way down in order to stop the car. The pedal comes back slowly once you push it in. In past two days I have put a new brake booster, new master cylinder and bleed the brakes RL-FR-RR-FL, there are no leaks and no air in the system. I do have 18" charger rims with the same 15" brake rotors and pads but I dont think that should be the problem. Please help me out, I really dont know what to change next, this is driving me crazy .... I would really appreciate any help. thx
p.s. the brake pads are also good
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Master cylinder?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I changed the brake booster first, didnt fix the problem so I changed the master cylinder, still didnt fix it :( ... the pedal feels really mushy n' the car doesnt instantly stop like it used to ....
 

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Do you happen to have ABS?
 

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Sounds like you still have air in the system then.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oh wait a second, I know this may sound like a noob question I think I have ABS, when I turn the ignition light on the ABS lights comes on and goes off, is that the only way to check if it is ABS or not?
 

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The ABS pump and what not should be under the hood not far from the master cylinder...

but what I was going to suggest checking on is the rear brakes - if you have drums, you may need to adjust them up - a low brake pedal can sometimes be cause by brakes that arn't properly adjusted in the rear...

but if you have ABS, I'd look at those issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
do I have to bleed the brakes again with the DRBIII tool or should I just clear out the codes by putting the tool? ... and is this the reason for the pedal feeling spongy? any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
p.s. do they have this tool at any auto parts store?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No, it doesnt have drums on the rear. Since I already bleed the brakes do I just have to clear out the codes using ABS tool ?
 

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The DRB is only available at the dealer or maybe some shops. There's another thread discussing bleeding the brakes with ABS..do a search for it. It's pretty recent in the last few days.
If the ABS light comes on and goes off within a few seconds after starting the car...you have ABS and it's working normally. You're symptoms still point to air in the brake system.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I bleed it two times normally, RL-FR-RR-FL ... how can I check if the air is in the system, the fluid level is also right, its not going down.
 

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The air is trapped in the ABS pump and plumbing... it will act as a cushion in the braking system (where you don't want ANY cushion). You can only get the air out if you bleed the ABS system with the rest of the brakes, and you can only do that 'properly' with the right Chrysler scan tool. If you had the system open up at the top for changing a master cylinder, then you have air in the ABS network now too.

There is rumor/theory that you can do a normal bleed, then go driving and slam on the brakes to get the ABS to activate (pumping the air and fluid around to put the air in the lines to bleed, hopefully), and that in doing this several times you can bleed it - but you have to get the ABS to activate like on a slick road, gravel, ice rink, etc.
 

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I personally think you still have air in your regular brake system. What are you doing when you bleed? If you are not careful, you can suck air into the system. Put a piece of clear tubing on the bleeder on one of the wheels and do the pump open close, pump open close sequence to fill the tubing. See if there are air bubbles.
 

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I bleed it two times normally, RL-FR-RR-FL ... how can I check if the air is in the system, the fluid level is also right, its not going down.
are you saying you bleed the left rear first? followed by the right front, than the right rear, and then the front left?
 

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Yeh that's the sequence I read in the forums .....
Really? The way I have always bleed brakes is start at the wheel that is the farthest away from the master. The process usually being right rear first, then the left rear, followed by the right front and then finally the left front.
 

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It changes based on these systems being cross linked, not latteral (or what ever the two terms are)... our braking system isn't split Front/Rear, it is split diagonally across the car... but, in all reality, I don't honestly under stand why in fluid dynamics it will mater how you bleed it, as long as you start farthest from the master...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
so I gave my car to the dealer and they told me there is no air in the system and said they will have to replace the brake booster and master cylinder as the pedal goes half way down before it even touches anything. They quoted me $900 and that is way out of my reach, I really dont know what to do now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
When I start the car, the rpms rise to 2000 and goes back down, I think I have vacuum leak, is that what is causing the problem? ... is there anyway to check if the brake booster is working fine?
p.s. also since I replaced the booster first and then the master cylinder, is there a possibility that the leaky master cylinder made the re manufactured booster go bad?
 
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