thanks a lot of man ... the problem is when you dont know whats causing the problem then the frustration kicks in .... the pedal feels really spongy and you have to push it all the way to the floor for the car to stop, and I can still hear that hissing sound even though I did replace the booster from advance auto parts. Do we have to buy the new PIN that attached the booster to the pedal too? The mechanic that changed the master cylinder told me that the old MC was rusted from the back side and the new one is perfect. I took it to the dealer, and they said that there is no air in the system that means really that the remanufactured booster is bad? ...I have a reman and it works great.
Would not be the booster anyway. If booster, and the system was solid then you would have a hard pedal not a soft pedal.
I will get back to you later tonite. I work nites and right now I have to go to work.
I will post back later in nite.
I can understand your frustarion but dont loose it right now.
Something dont make sense here.
We are here to help
hey, first off thanks for the reply, really appreciate it.Khizer - you've got two problems, and I want to try to separate them for you... if you have some mechanical ability, some abiltity to lay on your back, and a place to do it, the repairs are not totally out of your reach as the shade tree mechanic...
First off, the brake booster. A failure of the brake booster will give you one of two (or both) symptoms. A bad brake booster will not help you apply the brakes (or not as well as it should), or will may keep the pedal from coming up as easily. Most of the diagnostics for a bad booster will be found by pedal feel, and by listening for hissing. Hissing can be just annoying, or can signal a booster failure. A brake booster can fail due to an internally leaking master cylinder (you might see a trail of brake fluid down the face of the booster under where the master cylinder attaches), or can also fail due to a failure in the fuel system. On a Ford Ranger, it has been proven that a bad fuel regulator will leak fuel up and out the vacuum line, and then into the booster, causing the rubber to break down in the booster. This will likely NOT be the case in the 2nd gen LH platform however.
Now, for the master cylinder - a failure of the master cylinder will cause the brakes to not apply, or to not retract, and will also give the same problems with the brake pedal. Although rare, it is possible to have gotten a bad master cylinder from the supplier. It sounds like maybe only one of the brake circuits are activating. I would go back to the place you got the master cylinder and ask about an exchange due to getting a dud. They should be willing to exchange it.
While you have it apart, it might be worth it to get a new booster - because you have to remove the master cylinder again if you do need to change the booster.
It might be the case as my mechanic did it for me. I bought the two parts seperatly as I initially thought it was the brake booster so I replaced that, didnt fix the problem so I replaced the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Still, the same problem is there. Is the PIN that connects the booster to the pedal needs to be new cuz I used the old one. Will that be causing the pedal to drop down a little but regardless the brakes are just too darn soft !It sounds like maybe something may not be connected properly - is the brake rod adjustable on your replacement booster? Is the booster completely bolted to the fire wall (maybe something fell between the booster and the firewall)...
Did you buy the two parts as a sub assembly, or were they boxed separately and you put them together? If they were already bolted together, there could be something 'off' from the factory.
I really dont know the size of it. I'm getting all this from different places on the net. I'll check once the car comes back.Yup, good tests to perform. The pin I'm not sure about - to me, it shouldn't matter if a pin is new or used... can you describe the pin better? Is it something that holds two parts in place, like a cotter pin, or is it something big, more like a push-rod size?
If it is pushrod size, I wonder if that is your problem... the rod may be too short for the new aftermarket parts.
Yeh I took off the vacuum line, and it was working fine (sucking the air in) right? .... I didnt find any leak anywhere in the systemHave you checked the vacumn line to the brake booster? Perhaps there is an air leak in that line. However having said that a spongy pedal usually is caused by air in the brake line some place. Have you checked the lines themselves and where they fasten to the calipers?