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Discussion Starter #41
the car is still at the mechanic shop ... but wait ... do I have to bleed it again? .... what i'm gonna do today is put the 15" wheels back on to see if that is causing that problem. worth a try
 

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The wheel size will have nothing to do with it - a cheap test, sure, but don't hold your breath...

As for needing to bleed it again - tough call... Personally, I'd think that as a good will gesture, they should bleed it for you - I mean, how long does it take a well equipt shop to power bleed a brake system? Especially if you're paying a $107 diagnostic fee...

But, if they don't do it for you...
 

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Discussion Starter #43
The wheel size will have nothing to do with it - a cheap test, sure, but don't hold your breath...

As for needing to bleed it again - tough call... Personally, I'd think that as a good will gesture, they should bleed it for you - I mean, how long does it take a well equipt shop to power bleed a brake system? Especially if you're paying a $107 diagnostic fee...

But, if they don't do it for you...
yeh I didnt think so either that putting 15" wheels back will do the trick but it did somehow .... The brakes feel better like they should. I guess the main problem was the bad booster but changing the wheels did add the slight quicker braking power I was looking for, you are right though not that much. In order to fit bigger rotors do I just have to change the front two rotors and knuckles right? ... or do I have to change the brake pads as well? ... do the rear ones needs to be changed as well? .... and should I still go ahead and go that gravel test although the brakes are working fine now. when the ABS activates does it do something special ? ... I guess thats the only questions that are left other than that the car seems perfect now.
 

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...In order to fit bigger rotors do I just have to change the front two rotors and knuckles right?
That is 100% correct.

... or do I have to change the brake pads as well? ... do the rear ones needs to be changed as well?
No - no options there - all rear parts are exactly the same (except for personal choice pad material variations).

.... and should I still go ahead and go that gravel test although the brakes are working fine now. when the ABS activates does it do something special ? ....
Activating the ABS exchanges fluid between the regular brake system and the ABS system - the idea is to get any trapped air out of the ABS system where you can bleed it (from the regular system) or it will rise to the master cylinder where it will rise into the reservoir and self bleed.
 

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Did you check to see if the booster is good by bleeding all the air out of it? its rather simple. before starting the car pump the brakes and when/if the pedal gets tough to push on, hold it down start the car and it should slowly get easier to push down. if it doesnt get easier it could be a vacuum leak. or could a brake line be leaking some where you cant easily see like under the car?
 

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So I'm having a issue I did the pads front didn't break a line installed new pads. Pit everything back to same peddle to floor no brakes ??? Did the master cylinder bench bled did left wheel cylinder re bled brakes 5 times still no brakes..... K now when I clap off left front caliper which is bran new and top brand re bled absolutely no air in system it's been bled to death. I have brakes when clamped soon as you take off vice grips off caliper line just aboue caliper no brakes. So I re bled and repeated still nothing. I'm super lost anyone have this issue??????
 
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