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42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
after 1 qt of clean fluid
i can see its leaking in the rear
around the trunk and
pre muffler

anyone done this?
i cant tell which line

I see brake lines come in sets of 7?
why 7 i see 6 on the manual p144
I have no ABS

I guess there is a 'block' on the body? i suppose it's tward the head end, away from the leak

list of BS - get another wheel chock
brake fluid
what the hell - struts and springs - will that get the crossmember out of the way??
chain and lock for wheels p110

stops with 1 wheel but i expect it to be bone dry in 4 blocks


It sure is tucked up in there emergcy cable and all - it certainly was not the last thing to be installed...
I dont think both left and right rear is bad

I'm abandoning you


I dug up a few pictures of the line I had to straighten. The other one just had a 90 degree bend, which I think I may have gotten through the space between the body and floorpan without any bending/straightening, but I don't remember for sure. (EDIT: Looking at an earlier post in this thread, I did have to bend it a bit.) Also as you can see in the pictures, I covered the ends of the lines with electrical tape when installing to avoid getting dirt and crud in them.

My car had been undercoated at some point, so the aluminum crossmember was more or less black, but you can see it along the right side of the third picture. I had already installed other rear brake line, and you can see a bit of it peeking through the pentagon-shaped cutout in the crossmember.
I almost see it - Electrical Tape - left the wheel on - I see your jack 5" off the ground - No Fear Huh?


5083038-AA -- rear line
5083039-AA -- rear line

2000 trep}
what about 02?

I bought the rears at my local dealer in late November 2013, and they were able to get them. You'll have to give them the part numbers because they're not listed in the parts catalog for pre-'02 models. The rears were about $90 each with tax.

I replaced mine this past weekend, and that's not really a job I'd look forward to doing again. You don't need to remove the front bumper, but you'll have to pull the driver's side headlight, the cruise control controller/servo, trans controller, and washer fluid reservoir. I also pulled the driver's side fog light, but I don't think it was really necessary. You will need a 13mm flare nut crowsfoot wrench to get the lines off the abs controller - the area's too tight for a regular flare nut wrench. Unless MAYBE if you tighten/loosen the back two fittings while the front four lines are disconnected...

It was possible to get the rear lines through the cradle, past the engine, and up to the ABS controller while they're still bent into shape (for the most part, anyway). It is not possible to get them past the rear crossmember though. You'll either have to unbolt the drivers side and let it hang down a bit, or completely straighten the back end of the line (specifically the drivers side line), feed it through the small gap above the cross member, and then re-bend it. The passenger side line I was actually able to maneuver above the cross member with minor bending.
I see a lot more car than i see in your photos but ok GB
abs; no abs; yea i know prop valve but to what 'block' or is that where the hose is pinned?
I left out a ramp overnight and GONE! - if it's not holding the car up!
they will just cut the chain too ...

42 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
so is this what i'm looking at where it runs down from the prop valve (tough to see) and all four or 3 and now two and gas lines?

It looks like at the ass end that it comes down from both sides

I can only imagine hacking this up and taking them out and one is still good? - it must be leaking where it's still together

does this require all four corners on stands at once? - Ive barely got a wheel off the ground

If I take off both rear wheels how long do you think it will stay that way? or should I just find the ONE line

I was thinking of one where I could jack both rear wheels up chock the front?

I hit **** with sticks!
37,341 Posts
My big question!

for today

Anyone ever use JB weld as a temporary fix for this and how long does it last?

6 mos

a year

Long enough to get estimates?????

You NEVER use anything like JB weld on brake lines.

You have thousands of pounds of line pressure in a brake line; JB weld will not hold that, nor adhere to rusty brake lines.

Replace them properly with new steel lines.
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