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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so there is a bad pulsation coming from my brakes... Im almost certain that it is the rotors. If it is and if turning them wont help, What rotors should I get for my 98 ES? I dont have much doe rey mi, so it has to be a sensable decision. Basically I want to know what aftermarket brand or type is the best (autoparts store, or will chrysler be better (remember budget) etc.) I want R/T rotors but that will have to wait until around summer time. Thanks
 

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I've seen a lot of discussion here about rotors.

My experience: Go with R1 Concepts. Exact fit, zinc coated to protect against rust.

I selected cross-drilled, slotted. Installed on February 07 and still looking and working as new.

Price? $85 plus shipping. Their site www(dot)r1concepts(dot)com or you can find their store on eBay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The mechanic (my boss) at this shop I just worked at priced some rotors from the local parts plus for $27.27 each... That is a lot cheaper. Something tells me that this will not be the performing rotor... however I do not know how the will perform at all. SOMEONE must have bought some rotors from a parts store... Any feedback?
 

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Thanks for the website man... I put together this combo... How does this sound? AND WHY ARE THEY SO CHEAP? $97 FOR 1 PAIR?

And how much was shipping and tax for you?
Shipping was around $35 (I really don't remember the exact amount).

I think it is a fair price. Some stores sell their rotors as PERFORMANCE and there's no real difference in materials or design. You should expect to pay big bucks if you go with the top brands like Brembo. Unless you are racing, the only difference you may expect is how long until they warp. And, as I mentioned, I am pretty happy with the R1.

If you want stock and do heat is not a problem for you, the ones at the parts store may be good. I never tried them, so I can not tell you how long they last.
 

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The mechanic (my boss) at this shop I just worked at priced some rotors from the local parts plus for $27.27 each... That is a lot cheaper. Something tells me that this will not be the performing rotor... however I do not know how the will perform at all. SOMEONE must have bought some rotors from a parts store... Any feedback?
I always run, both on my 1st gen and now on my '02, the auto parts $25/each rotors. Never had any problems with them. At that price, it's not worth the time and money to even turn them...something most places won't bother to do anymore.
They are not drilled or slotted, but if you're not needing that extra performance, they're great. Just don't cheap out when you buy pads.
 

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I work on 2 treps
My wifes' 99 and her sisters 98
On both I find the rotors do not warp but they rust to a point that the scale is deep enough to cause the pulsations.
To prove it I chipped away at the scale with the surgical instrument made be Estwing and the rotors were fine.
I think now that the trick is to have pads that do a better job of keeping the rust from building on the rotor or, as Adam -Hawk says, have a rotor that is built to resist the rusting.
I am not saying that people should fix their cars with a 28 oz framing hammer.
Get new ones in the end
I am saying if we know the cause we can find the cure.

Sorry about the pics if they do not turn out. My first attempt
 

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I work on 2 treps
My wifes' 99 and her sisters 98
On both I find the rotors do not warp but they rust to a point that the scale is deep enough to cause the pulsations.
To prove it I chipped away at the scale with the surgical instrument made be Estwing and the rotors were fine.
I think now that the trick is to have pads that do a better job of keeping the rust from building on the rotor or, as Adam -Hawk says, have a rotor that is built to resist the rusting.
I am not saying that people should fix their cars with a 28 oz framing hammer.
Get new ones in the end
I am saying if we know the cause we can find the cure.

Sorry about the pics if they do not turn out. My first attempt
Wow! That is very atypical. That car sat unused for a long time and/or you seriously live in the rust belt.
 

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I work on 2 treps
My wifes' 99 and her sisters 98
On both I find the rotors do not warp but they rust to a point that the scale is deep enough to cause the pulsations.
To prove it I chipped away at the scale with the surgical instrument made be Estwing and the rotors were fine.
I think now that the trick is to have pads that do a better job of keeping the rust from building on the rotor or, as Adam -Hawk says, have a rotor that is built to resist the rusting.
I am not saying that people should fix their cars with a 28 oz framing hammer.
Get new ones in the end
I am saying if we know the cause we can find the cure.

Sorry about the pics if they do not turn out. My first attempt
Wow those rotors are in the worst shape Ive ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That really sucks. Im going to school in upstate NY and i hear the rust sucks in the winter... But I also hear that it doesnt REAALY affect your car until abou the second or third winter... I dont know but I am going to try not to drive that much this winter and Ill just get a winter beater over the summer hopefully! Yeah I have that pulsation too right now. Do you guys think that those $25 rotors will stay rust free through this winter?
 

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I dont know if they salt the roads in NY
Here in southern Ontario they salt big time.
I went out to live in Winipeg Manatoba where there is more snow and they dont use salt on the roads and it was like going thru a time warp. I mean people were driving what I called classics in the winter.
I could see cars on the road that were 10 years older then in Ontario.
Again it is the frames that drive cars to the junk yard in Ontario. And the fact that after a certain amount of time, everything is rust. Brakes, gas lines. brake lines, gas tanks, oil pans leak from rust holes, unibody construction gets weak, etc. etc.
If they salt heavy in NY then I bet your disks will look like mine by the end of the first winter.
 
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