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broke 2.7L crankshaft, Looking for Engine Suggestions - '02 Intrepid

1109 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  pradecki
Looking for advice on several options: 1) rebuild lower end on my current 2.7L, 2) buy 2.7L short block, 3) buy 2.7L long block, 4) 3.5L swap, 5) junk car and buy something that works...

Background story:
In the beginning of June the water pump blew on my '02 intrepid. cyl compression was great but was leaking coolant like a sieve out the weep hole. I swapped in a full timing set from Cloyes, water and oil pumps from adv auto. After the job I put 5000 miles on the car, it was running great (29 mpg on highway) until a week ago I snapped the crankshaft pulling onto the interstate (WOT 2nd gear 4000 rpm). It broke right where cylinder #5 connecting rod connects: about 3 or 4 inches forward from the driveplate. Funny thing is the engine still runs and compression is good on all cylinders around 185 psi except cyl #6 that is around 160psi. However, the timing chain stretched, The primary tensioner was at its maximum when I inspected the engine after the crank failure. Cloyes rep claimed that the 5k full chain wearout was caused by the crankshaft going bad. Surprisingly the timing never jumped any teeth. Currently the car has 206,606 miles on it and the transmission is out of the car, (I originally thought the driveplate was cracked and dropped tranny only to find that the crank was snapped just a couple inches in front of the driveplate.) The tranny pan had a few tiny metal particles in it, but nothing but powder was on the magnet, So the tranny is probably nearing the end of its life as well.

1) Rebuild option:
Since the timing never jumped I assume the heads are fine, pistons might be fine as well. Crankshaft and all journal bearings would all need to be replaced, along with possibly the connecting rods for cyl 5 and 6. Also I need to get a new timing chain since the new Cloyes one I installed 5k miles ago is already shot. Probably would get OEM, not sure how cloyes chain stretched that quick unless it was poor quality part. My concern I don't know about is, if I went this route would I need to get the bearing surfaces in the block and caps machined? And what would the reliability of the rebuild be? I don't want to do a full bottom end overhaul and only get 5k miles out of it like i did after the t-chain replacement.

2/3) Buy new/reman short or long block.
Anyone have recommendations on places to purchase 2.7L short or long block from? Since I believe heads are ok I believe I could get by with a short block.

4) 3.5L Swap.
I just ordered daytreppers manual off ebay on the swap. I am planning to call up some local junkyards to see what they have in the area. What would all consider acceptable low mileage for a 3.5L engine to swap in? Below 150k? Below 75k? Not sure their typical life. Also would it be recommended to do the water pump/t-belt on the used 3.5L before installing it? Also my 2.7L has NO EGR. Do '02-'04 3.5L have EGR normally or not? If they do is that going to cause some check engine light problems if I swap it in my car?

5) buy new car...
just bought new suspension and installed new brake system in car, be a shame to have to junk the car, but worse things have happened in life.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
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I'll sell you my 75k mile, 3.5L 2004 Trep for $3000.
Remove all of your newly installed suspension parts and scrap the old clunker.

It would probably be a a nice drive to Ithaca this time of year!
I have never heard of a crank snapping! Good lord.


I vote 3.5L swap! Everyone on the forum who's not trying to sell you something will vote 3.5L swap. :)
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Purchasing a completed swap is kinda like doing a swap...without the headaches.
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And all the rust disappears at the same time.
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But seriously, I would not do a swap on a 200,000 mile car.
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If the body is good I would do a swap to 3.5. I'm just waiting for my 2.7 to bite the dust.
TGS I just sent you a PM, Interested in finding out more about you '04 Intrepid for sale.

I bought my Intrepid down in Kentucky in '09 and I do regular car washes so the rust is really minimal. I have only ever broken one fastener on the car from it being too rusted. Hence I'm not averse to throwing money at a swap.
TGS I just sent you a PM, Interested in finding out more about you '04 Intrepid for sale.

I bought my Intrepid down in Kentucky in '09 and I do regular car washes so the rust is really minimal. I have only ever broken one fastener on the car from it being too rusted. Hence I'm not averse to throwing money at a swap.
Yep, I understand. I just assumed that it was a rusty Northern car.

I just sent a reply. You can execute a search on "project13" to see pics and read
about this zany project. She just got converted from non-HO to HO last weekend.
Background story:
In the beginning of June the water pump blew on my '02 intrepid. cyl compression was great but was leaking coolant like a sieve out the weep hole. I swapped in a full timing set from Cloyes, water and oil pumps from adv auto. After the job I put 5000 miles on the car, it was running great (29 mpg on highway) until a week ago I snapped the crankshaft pulling onto the interstate (WOT 2nd gear 4000 rpm). It broke right where cylinder #5 connecting rod connects: about 3 or 4 inches forward from the driveplate. Funny thing is the engine still runs and compression is good on all cylinders around 185 psi except cyl #6 that is around 160psi. However, the timing chain stretched, The primary tensioner was at its maximum when I inspected the engine after the crank failure. Cloyes rep claimed that the 5k full chain wearout was caused by the crankshaft going bad. Surprisingly the timing never jumped any teeth. Currently the car has 206,606 miles on it and the transmission is out of the car, (I originally thought the driveplate was cracked and dropped tranny only to find that the crank was snapped just a couple inches in front of the driveplate.) The tranny pan had a few tiny metal particles in it, but nothing but powder was on the magnet, So the tranny is probably nearing the end of its life as well.
Quite aside from everything else, given that the crank sensor picks up from the flywheel, the starter motor engages the ring gear on the flywheel and both of these are bolted to the crank AFTER the break in it, HOW does it start and run? Unless it is the front end of the crank which broke, which would disengage the timing and lead to the same question?

Not that I am doubting your story, I just don't see how you could start a car with a broken crank?
Good question. Took me about 3 days to figure out what was wrong because I went down the same logical path. I heard noise from both front and back of the engine and found that t-chain loose and the tensioner making noise, swapped my old ones back in and still had noise from the back end, dropped the transaxle to oil pan support brace and thought the driveplate was cracked/partially loose because I could wiggle it around while the front of the crank stayed still, consulted with the local Dodge dealer's best mechanic and he concluded the same thing I did, that the driveplate must be broken. So I bought some truck stands and jacked the car up high enough to drop out the tranny, used my motorcycle jack and removed the tranny. Got it out and saw the plate was fine, removed it and was left with the back end of the crank wiggling around. Pulled off the rear main oil seal/carrier, oil pan, windage tray and saw that the crank was busted inside of where connecting rod #5 comes down and clamps around the crank. I never actually pulled the cap off the bottom of that rod yet though. I shot some video of the engine running with the busted crank, tomorrow if I have time I will take another clip showing the wiggle in the back of the crank and will take the cap off that rod and take a picture of it.

the way it is running is that where the rod connects is offset from center, so the 2 pieces of the crank are held inside of the base of rod #5 which acting as a lever, that synchronizes the crank angle between the two halves of the crank. I never said it ran well, but it did run.
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