DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Am I blind? I thought we had a how-to for replacing C/V joints.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,041 Posts
This should help you out:

Halfshafts

IDENTIFICATION


All LH platform vehicles are equipped with an unequal length driveshaft system. The left side of the vehicle is equipped with a longer driveshaft (also called a halfshaft) than the right side of the vehicle. The LH platform uses solid interconnecting shafts on both sides of the vehicles. The halfshaft assemblies are three piece units. Each halfshaft has a tripod joint, an interconnecting shaft and a outer CV-Joint. The tripod joint is splined onto the transaxle stub shaft and the outer CV-Joint has a stub shaft that is splined into the front wheel hub and bearing assembly.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1 through 10


Fig. 1: Halfshaft identification

Fig. 2: Removal or installation of the speed sensor routing bracket

Fig. 3: Remove the stub axle retaining nut

Fig. 4: Using a special tool to press the stub axle from the hub and bearing

Fig. 5: Carefully dislodge the inner tripod joint at the transaxle stub shaft

Fig. 6: Removal or installation of the strut-to-steering knuckle nuts

Fig. 7: Removing or installing the outer CV-joint at the steering knuckle end

Fig. 8: Support the tripod joint and remove the shaft assembly

Fig. 9: Prior to installation, apply a 1mm bead of grease here

Fig. 10: Prior to installation, always use a new O-ring seal and retaining clipWARNING
Allowing the CV-joint assemblies to dangle unsupported or pulling or pushing the ends can damage boots or CV-joints. Always support both ends of the halfshaft to prevent damage or disengagement of the Tripod joint.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the front wheels.
Remove the front caliper assembly from the steering knuckle.
Remove the front brake rotor from the hub by pulling it straight off wheel mounting studs.
Remove the speed sensor cable routing bracket from the strut assembly.
Remove the hub and bearing-to-stub axle retainer nut.
Install a puller tool onto the hub and bearing assembly and secure it into place using the wheel lug nuts.
Protect wheel stud threads by installing a wheel lug nut onto a wheel stud. Install a flat blade prying tool to prevent the hub from turning. Using the puller tool, force the halfshaft outer stub axle from the hub and bearing assembly.
Dislodge the inner Tripod joint from the stub shaft retaining snapring on the transaxle. To do this, insert a prybar between the transaxle case and the inner Tripod joint and pry on Tripod joint.
Do not try to remove the inner Tripod joint from the transaxle stub shaft at this time. Only disengage the inner Tripod joint from the retainer snapring.

Remove the strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts from the strut assembly.
WARNING
The strut assembly to steering knuckle bolts are serrated (toothed) where they go through the strut assembly and steering knuckle. When removing the bolts, turn the nuts off the bolt. Do not turn the bolts in the steering knuckle or damage to the steering knuckle will result.
Separate the top of the steering knuckle from the lower end of the strut.
Hold the outer joint assembly with one hand. Grasp the steering knuckle with the other hand and rotate it out and to the rear of the vehicle, until the outer CV-joint clears the hub and bearing assembly.
WARNING
When removing the outer CV-joint from the hub and bearing assembly, do not allow the flange disc on the hub and bearing assembly to become damaged. If this happens, dirt and water can enter the bearing which will cause premature bearing failure.
Remove the halfshaft inner joint from the transaxle stub shaft by grasping the inner Tripod joint and the interconnecting shaft and pulling both pieces at the same time. Take care not to pull on the interconnecting shaft to remove or separation of the spider assembly will occur.
To install:


Replace the inner Tripod joint retaining circlip and O-ring seal on the transaxle stub shaft. These components are not reusable and must be replaced whenever the halfshaft is removed.
Apply an even coat of grease on the splines of the inner Tripod joint, where the O-ring seats against the Tripod joint.
Install the halfshaft through the hole in the splash shield. Grasp the inner joint in 1 hand and interconnecting shaft in the other. Align the inner Tripod joint spline with the stub shaft spline on the transaxle. Use a rocking motion with the inner Tripod joint to get it past the circlip on the transaxle stub shaft.
Continue pushing Tripod joint onto transaxle stub shaft until it stops moving. The O-ring on the stub shaft should not be visible when the inner Tripod joint is fully installed. Check that the inner Tripod joint is locked in position by grasping the inner joint and pulling. If locked in position, the joint will not move on the stub shaft.
Hold the outer CV-joint assembly with one hand. Grasp the steering knuckle with the other and rotate it out and to the rear of the vehicle. Install the outer CV-joint into the hub and bearing assembly.
Install the top of the steering knuckle into the strut assembly. Align the steering knuckle to strut assembly mounting holes.
Install the strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts. Install the nuts to the attaching bolts and while holding the bolt heads, tighten nuts to 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm). Turn the nuts on the bolts. Do NOT turn the bolts.
Install a new hub and bearing assembly-to-stub shaft retainer nut. Tighten but do not torque the nut at this time.
Install the speed sensor cable routing bracket and secure attaching screw.
Install the brake rotor and the caliper assembly. Install the caliper guide pin bolts to steering knuckle and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
Install the front wheels and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm). Lower the vehicle to the ground. Pump the brakes until a firm pedal is obtained.
Apply the brakes and torque the new stub shaft-to-hub and bearing assembly retainer nut to 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm).
WARNING
When tightening the stub shaft retaining nut, be careful not to exceed the maximum torque specification of 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm). If this specification is exceeded, failure of the halfshaft could result.
Reconnect the negative battery cable. Road test vehicle to check for noise or vibration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Awesome! Thanks for the pics, man. Anyone replace the passenger side half shaft, and have any pointers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,778 Posts
Passenger side should be easier than driver side because the drive shaft is shorter. The instruction is basically what you have to do. Just something to help you out.

1. You don't need the tool to remove the axle nut. Remove the center cap of your wheel (or the wheel cover) so that you have access to the axle nut with the wheel on. Have someone sit in the car pressing the brake. Then use a breaker bar to remove the nut (which could be rusted). If it is rusted, spray penetrating fluid and tap with hammer before you start busting that nut.

2. When you are trying to get the tripod joint free from the stub, use impact motion. You need the joint to pop past the circlip.

3. The axis can get rusted in the wheel bearing. Again, hammer and apply penetrating fluid. If not, might have to heat it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Done... My two roadblocks were: After pressing the stub axle from the hub, there was so much reverse pressure on the half shaft, it was wanting to press back in. The whole half shaft was rigid. Not wanting to mess up the splines, I lossened the strut-to-steering knuckle nuts, tapped them out as far as I could, then turned them out, bottom one first. This released the pressure, and I got the half shaft out, except for the tripod joint housing, which was still on the trans. Gripped it with a vise-grips, and pulled on the vise-grip screw with a claw hammer until it popped over the circlip. rest was easy! Thanks all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
you shouldn't need an alignment unless you have camber bolts, those are not factory so you probably don't. i always used a slide hammer to pop mine out of the tranny. i replace them a lot since i'm so low to the ground, another reason H&R's are going in this weekend
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
springs, sorry got off subject there
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
you shouldn't need an alignment unless you have camber bolts, those are not factory so you probably don't. i always used a slide hammer to pop mine out of the tranny. i replace them a lot since i'm so low to the ground, another reason H&R's are going in this weekend
i could be very wrong, but it was to my understanding that the little amounts of play in those bolt holes (if there is any in the is car) was how the camber was adjusted... i know of the bolts you are talking about.. i had em in my jetta. essential to keep proper alignment when your control arms point up from thier mounts lol. it was that low. barely got it off the alignment rack. hahaha
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top