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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So my cousin has a 2000 Accent Coupe that's been sitting for a few years now since she had another vehicle to drive. I had been trying to sell it for her so I cleaned the car up and did the front brakes and they were in really bad shape. After a short test drive the rear brakes fell apart but I haven't had time to fix them yet. Now she really needs the car because of unforeseen circumstance so I've offered to do them since the car really should be used without. The reason I have been avoiding them is because they are drum brakes. Which I've never done apart from the parking brakes on the LH. Also, the front brakes fought me pretty hard so that scared me a little.

So, has anybody here done a set of these before? Any pointers? The car only has about 80k miles on it but has been subjected to salty Canadian winters so it's got it's fair share of rust. I was thinking of buying 2 drums, a set of shoes, a brake hardware kit and possibly some new wheel cylinders since they were less than 10$ each on RA. Any help would be greatly appreciated since I want to order up the parts to get it done next week.

Thanks!
 

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get off my lawn
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first thing, do one side at a time,, that way , you can go around and see where your screwing up.
if memory serves me well,, there fairly easy,
 

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That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.
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You may have a similar issue to our cars with regard to removing the drums - a line of rust along the inner rim, will likely need some persuasion to come off. The drums on my Caravan took LOTS of persuasion.

And X2 on one side at a time... that way you have a reference point once you disassemble the other. Or take lots of close-up pix. Good luck Steph!
 

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When all else fails just get a bigger redneck speed wrench. Sure-fire thing for rusty parts or unappreciative young-uns.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I remember the "lip" on the drums, what a pain that was. So it's a good idea to replace the wheel cylinder???
 

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when you get the rear drums off pull the boots of the on the wheel cylinder back a little bit. if you see moisture. there leaking. might as well replace em while your there if so. with it being a 2000 it would not suprise me at all if they are leaking. also some cars that come with drum brakes have holes with threads in them that you can use a bolt to the thread into and basically screw in to pull the brake drum off. I saw that on alot of GM's which I am most familiar with
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'll probably just order them to be same, I can see those being a 40$ part retail here and I only want to take things apart once. Thanks guys!
 

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I hate drum brakes with a passion. They are pretty simple but they are always a bear to get apart and back together right on the first try. What I did last time I had one apart was take out my phone and took a good picture before dis-assembly.
 

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I hit **** with sticks!
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Dang, do they even still put drum brakes on anything other than semi-trucks?

They are pretty easy, like what was mentioned just do one side at a time, so you can have a guide to go by if you forget the order of the springs etc....just remember the right side is the opposite of the left side---also yep, might as well throw wheel cylinders on it too, they are cheap, good insurance, they leak often.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I got the parts ordered up last Friday, they won't be here till Thursday though. I'll keep the thread updated.
 

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let us know how it goes
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I got the parts yesterday, I'll start doing the work next week sometime.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So before getting rained out today I got the car up on stands and got the drums off to see what I was up against. Judging by the mess of peeling paint a gunk, the drivers side wheel cylinder is probably leaking so getting some new ones was a good call. The my dilemma is whether or not I have to remove the hub assembly to do the brakes? Somebody's been in there already to change some thing because the nut is like new yet the dust cap is beaten up a bit. I looked on Hyundai's service site and it says nothing about needing to remove it. I imagine taking it off would make things easier for me though. I'm going to give it another try tomorrow, hopefully I can get close to done with it.

Here's what I found.

Drivers



Passenger

 

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So... a big socket and it should just come off?
with that much corrosion....... I doubt it. Ohnestly Im not %100 on how those rear hubs on those cars come off
 

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after the nut is off,, it "should slide off"
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I got the job done last Thursday evening once I got somebody to help me bleed the brakes. It turns out that I was able to replace everything without taking the hub off. I was going to take them off but I didn't have the properly sized socket and wasn't going to go out and buy one. I started with the drivers side because oddly enough the passenger side hard line was really rusty compared to the drivers. As far as the wheel cylinder removal goes it was pretty smooth on this side with only a little effort needed to get the line off. On the passenger side however I decided to leave the original cylinder in place because I didn't want to risk destroying the line and opening up a can of worms. Instead, I took the old pistons out of the original cylinder and replaced them with the new parts from the new cylinder. Everything seems to work well now and it should last her a little longer until she can afford a new car. Thanks for the help guys!

Drivers after



 
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