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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finished my project of replacing the right front axle, both front hub assemblies, front struts, and end links. Everything thing bolted up nicely, though it seemed. Drove it for 2 days now without any complaints. Decided though to get a front end alignment due to the fact I just installed new tires and don't want any premature wear.

Belle Tire tells me today (during the inspection and alignment) that my right front camber is off by more than 3 degrees and there is no further room for adjustment. They said the only remedy would be to bring it back in on Monday so they can install an camber kit to correct most of the positive camber.

I'm unfamiliar with camber kits and bolts and don't know why I'd such a drastic change to the tire position. I did have to replace the spindle which was rust-welded on to the axle end. The replacement spindle was undamaged and matched up perfectly to the old one. Anyone know what else could be causing my camber to be way out of spec? The strut mounts matched up well as did the knuckle mounts.

Edit: Rockauto has several kits with adjustments up to 2 1/4 degrees but I'm not familiar with camber bolts. $12 vs $70 for about 15 minutes of work.
 

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Don't believe these cars have a camber adjustment. I have replaced front struts, both front axles, both front hub/bearing assemblies, and all I have ever had to have adjusted with an alignment is the toe-in. I guess it might be necessary under some unusual circumstances, but I haven't heard of it.

Question..did the struts you installed have round bolt holes or slots where the strut bolts to the knuckle?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Question..did the struts you installed have round bolt holes or slots where the strut bolts to the knuckle?
Round holes. No slots. The other side went on exactly like the left. Since I just bought the car 3 weeks ago, I don't know if this was a pre-existing condition. It may have been. I do have the old spindle that the rusted hub and axle are attached to. Maybe I'll try to saw off the axle end remove it from the spindle to compare the junk yard one that I installed. Pretty sure they matched up perfectly the first time I looked. Unless there was damage. This seems like a low probability though.

I'm stumped as to why the camber would be off so greatly on just the one side. I did use the Monroe quickstruts. And the left side is within the set limits.

I also installed the new ABS sensor which corrected my ABS light problem. Hub looks properly seated as does the cv shaft. I hate to "bandaid" over a problem as opposed to correct the root issue.
 

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Since only the toe is adjustable on our cars, many shops don't even look at the camber.

Perhaps the previous owner hit a curb and bent the engine cradle. A frame shop should be able to check it out and tell you what if anything is bent - if it's off that much, something is either not mated properly or is bent. What shape are control arm bushings and ball joint in? Ball joint stud properly installed?

Otherwise, you could just go with a camber kit. They typically only are good for 1 to 1-1/2° correction with one installed, so you would need two kits installed on that one side.

Always get the shop to give you a printout of *all* the parameters - 'before' and 'after' (after doing major work like you just did, the 'before' wouldn't be needed).
 

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Anyone know how difficult it is to install a couple of camber bolts to our front ends? I have a +3.0 camber adjustment to make on the passenger front and the alignment shop told me that it would be a $79 add on. I'd like to do it myself if I can find some basic instructions on how to set these bolts.

I can then just pay for the alignment after the camber kit is installed.
 

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As stated, if you need more than 1 degree of adjustment something is wrong. And I have confidence in that cause I have myself, installed lowering springs which should increase neg camber, install new suspension, and cam kits as well as done many alignments on my car. Never have I ve seen 3 degrees of camber either way unless one of the alignment heads were outta whack.
 

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Pretty sure you jack the car up, loosen one original bolt, remove the other one, install one kit, then remove the one you loosened, and put the second kit in. You might mark around the strut bracket with a Sharpie™ to get the camber close to what it was so things are close enough to drive it to the alignment shop without scrubbing the tires (moving the camber throws the toe off, which will cause scrubbing).
 

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Yes
 

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I'm thinking at minimum you would want to pay a reduced cost to have them check alignment, and if off, pay for the full alignment.

I'm thinking with all the attachment points and comparing a strut with wear vs. a new one, the stackups of all the dimension and position tolerances could very likely add up to problems. If you assume it's good, and it's not, you could end up having to replace tires way before you should have to - which would cost more than an alignment.

As far as fast wearout of tires, the toe settings are going to be the biggest effect on that. If the steering and tracking feels a lot different, and or if your steering wheel is no longer centered for straight and level driving, then chances are that alignmrnt specs, including toe, are significantly off.

At minimum, if you don't get he alignment, it's a gamble.

If you know how to do some old-school driveway toe-in measurement and corrections, at least you could avoid the possibility of rapid tread wearout. The other parameters (camber and caster) being off won't affect treadwear nearly as much, but would/could degrade handling (not permanently - just until corrected and maybe needing tires replaced due to abnormal wear patterns setting in).
 

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Damn it Ron! You always manage to say the same thing I say but with fewer words, and always beat me to posting! LOL! (y)
 

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I'm "The Man"! LOL!
 
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