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Discussion Starter #1
2000 Intrepid ES 3.2l

Was heading into town earlier today and the car was running just fine. About 10 miles down the road it just died, no unusual noises or check engine light, and will not start. Got it towed home and my OBDII scanner is showing codes P0340 and P1391, any chance that this is just a sensor problem and not something to serious? I have no clue so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Woober Goobers!
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P0340-NO CAM SIGNAL AT PCM

When Monitored and Set Condition:
P0340-NO CAM SIGNAL AT PCM

When Monitored: Engine cranking/running.
Set Condition: At least 5 seconds have elapsed with crankshaft position sensor signals
present but no camshaft position sensor signal.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
8 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO 8 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT
CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING DAMAGED
SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN
WIRING HARNESS INTERMITTENT
STRAY SIGNAL FROM THE CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN
CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT SHORTED TO SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT
8 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN
8 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND
8 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT SHORTED TO SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (8 VOLT SUPPLY)
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (CMP SIGNAL CIRCUIT)
POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT)

Symptom:
P1391-INTERMITTENT LOSS OF CMP OR CKP

When Monitored and Set Condition:
P1391-INTERMITTENT LOSS OF CMP OR CKP

When Monitored: Engine running or cranking.
Set Condition: When the failure counter reaches 20 for 2 consecutive trips.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE (CRANKSHAFT)
DAMAGED TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING (CAMSHAFT)
INTERMITTENT CMP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
INTERMITTENT CKP SIGNAL LOSS WHEN WIRING IS WIGGLED
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CKP SIGNAL
IRREGULAR LAB SCOPE PATTERN OF CMP SIGNAL
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
SENSOR CONNECTOR/WIRING
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
 

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Woober Goobers!
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How many miles and when was the timing belt last changed?
 

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Woober Goobers!
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A broken timing belt could be your problem. Need to get behind one of the timing covers and see what the belt looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A broken timing belt could be your problem. Need to get behind one of the timing covers and see what the belt looks like.
It was indeed a broken, well shredded, timing belt. Was hoping that I might have gotten lucky and not bent any valves, but that is not the case. She started right up but idles really rough and is burning a lot of oil.

My question is: Is this a repair job that can be done at home, with basic tools, or am I going to have to take it to a shop?

If it is a fairly straight forward job, is there a list of all needed parts in the FSM (I could not find one)?

Lastly I want to thank you all for the replies and advice, I would be completely lost without all of you.

Thanks,

Mark
 

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Woober Goobers!
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You'll need to pull the heads and get them to a machine shop for whatever that repair cost would be.

A Gates Timing Belt/Water Pump kit is popular for around $200. It's recommended to buy a Mopar timing belt tensioner vs aftermarket.

You'll need a Chrysler specific tool to remove the crankshaft pulley/dampener. Can be rented cheap at many auto parts stores.

There are threads on here outlining the replacement. Many people have done it successfully and much cheaper than paying a shop.
 

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One of the machine shops here in Indianapolis charges $150 per head plus the cost of each valve that needs to be replaced.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Heads-r-Us!
 

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Woober Goobers!
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So when the timing belt takes a dump....typically how many valves get bent? All Intake or Exhast? Or combo?
 

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Dain bramaged
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So when the timing belt takes a dump....typically how many valves get bent? All Intake or Exhast? Or combo?
It depend on where in the cycle the engine is. You'll usually get at least one intake in one piston and one exhaust in another, if your really unlucky you get one or the other in all the cylinders. DOHC cars are even worse and you can actually get BOTH in a single cylinder.
 

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he means "In my experience."

Seems like to me you'd have to be revving it pretty high to bend all the valves.

Why you were asked above how long it had been since the belt had been replaced is because to the best of my knowledge that's the ONLY really reliable way you can tell how long before the belt needs to be changed. You can't really tell by looking at them (unless they are actually starting to shred which they may do only a very few miles before letting go). I seem to recall they'll go about 80k miles and after that you better just change them out preventatively. When you get one of these cars and you aren't absolutely certain when it was changed last, best to just go ahead and change it so you ARE certain.

Unless you were drag racing or something when it let go you're probably going to need somewhere between 2 and 6 valves. Hopefully you didn't crack the top of any of your pistons.
 
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