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Discussion Starter #1
Im starting to get sick of this. I have a 95 3.5l trep. I had this same problem a few months ago. I went outside this morning to move the car, started no problem. Then I went outside this afternoon, and nothing, it will crank and crank, and almost turn, but it wont start????? I tried pushing the pedal all the way down to make sure its not flooded.

I have a half a tank of gas in it. could the lines be frozen? but then again why would it start this morning?? If I got some anti freeze gas tonight would that help?? It started the other day when it was 1degree outside..and I had less gas in it then I do now.

when this happened a few moths ago, it went a few days of not starting, and then all of a sudden it started??? I brought it to the mechanic and he cleared and renewed the codes and I was good to go

whats the deal, I cant rely on this car....
 

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i dont think your gas froze, it would have to be like 40 below for gas to freeze and it dosent freeze it just turns gel.
 

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wouldnt hurt to put in some of that HEET gas treatment ****
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Okay, so I went out their, and I keep cranking it over and over, and finally it turned over, however, it is bellowing white smoke??? whats the deal. Could it be internal coolant leak, i.e., cracked head/blown head gasket. I could defiantly smell gas when I was cranking it, I pushed to pedal all the way doen in order not to flood it?? I have a half a tank of gas, should I go and fill it up and put some of that heat stuff in it?? Im almost afraid of driving it to the gas station.
 

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There is no such thing as a code 3. How about a 12 instead ?
12=battery has been disconnected within the last 50 warm up cycles.

51= o2 sensors indicate a lean a/f ratio. this could be from you putting the pedal to the metal when you start it.

77=an open or shorted condition in the speed control relay circuit.

55=end of messages.

The only way your gas could get enough moisture in it to freeze would be if you're in the habit of always running on empty.If you always fill it up all the way when you get gas , then you will not have a freeze up problem, unless got a watered down tankful from the gas station (never happened to me in 30 years of driving).

I'm not sure what year 3.5 had a cold start issue, but I think it was '95. There was a 'puter update for the problem and also the spark plugs were to be gapped at .035" instead of the original spec. of .050"

Does it crank fairly strong when you try starting it ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
jedgxe said:
There is no such thing as a code 3. How about a 12 instead ?
12=battery has been disconnected within the last 50 warm up cycles.

51= o2 sensors indicate a lean a/f ratio. this could be from you putting the pedal to the metal when you start it.

77=an open or shorted condition in the speed control relay circuit.

55=end of messages.

The only way your gas could get enough moisture in it to freeze would be if you're in the habit of always running on empty.If you always fill it up all the way when you get gas , then you will not have a freeze up problem, unless got a watered down tankful from the gas station (never happened to me in 30 years of driving).

I'm not sure what year 3.5 had a cold start issue, but I think it was '95. There was a 'puter update for the problem and also the spark plugs were to be gapped at .035" instead of the original spec. of .050"

Does it crank fairly strong when you try starting it ?
Thanks for the info,

I will tell you I have a bad habit of letting it run on e for as long as i can go, then only putting in 20$ or so... so that could be an issue???

It does crank really strong. I tested the battery and alternator and they both show a strong reading.

I did just put new plugs in at .035, when I went through this the first time a few months ago.

the code 77 showed up last time, but I brought it to my mechanic, and he checked it out said he couldnt find a problem, and reset the codes???

It did start the other morning when it was 1degree out where i live, no problem.
 
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