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Discussion Starter #1
....but I caught it. I have stock '99 2.7 w/144k on it, been oil changing w/mobil one since I bought it w/70k on it, based on the advice from this site.

I was driving home and the temp gauge was on it's way north of half way when I caught it (it never runs hot), so I pulled off, cooled down, repeat- took forever to get home. Dropped it off at a garage for what I was hoping was going to be a radiator flush and a state inspection. To top off the night, on the run home from the garage, got bit by a dog, had to get a tetanus shot. The mechanic said that the water pump was bad, and the cost to fix is more than the car is worth. Trouble comes in threes, understood.

The Question- What's the best way to test if the water pump really is bad?
Do they get clogged? Any way to unclog it if it is?

The car's been great, engine still runs great. This site's been great, awesome info, I'm sure the car wouldn't have made it this far if it weren't for the info here. I'd drop a new engine in if the car had a sunroof, but I'm not going to bother to unless someone knows of a 3.5 cheap near philly. If I don't see a cheap engine, its up for sale.

Anyone selling trep/concorde/300m from this site near Philly?
Last Q....what can I get for it? Any takers on a trade- the car for a contract on the dog?
Thanks!
 

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Water pump is a very common failure on the 2.7. No way to fix it except replace it. At the same time, the timing chain is usually replaced, as these are known for the timing guides wearing out and putting extra stress on the water pump, which causes the water pump to fail.

What are they wanting to charge to fix it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the info. They want around $1500 to change it out. I'm going to look at it today to see if I can figure it out if its clogged or really shot as they said.
Thanks. Tom
 

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Personally i'd replace it rather it's clogged or not. I'd rather the water pump get clogged and stay that way than all that stuff floating around in my engine. I replaced the water pump on my 1g 3.5L and tossed a 180 degree stat. in it and it runs like a champ. Truthfully it is simple to change the water pump on the 1g's dunno bout the 2g's good luck tough!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. It looks like its a major job, major hassle to replace. I still haven't had the time to look at it, I plan on looking at it this weekend, gonna scout some yards for a 3.5 just in case!
 

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....but I caught it. I have stock '99 2.7 w/144k on it, been oil changing w/mobil one since I bought it w/70k on it, based on the advice from this site.

I was driving home and the temp gauge was on it's way north of half way when I caught it (it never runs hot), so I pulled off, cooled down, repeat- took forever to get home. Dropped it off at a garage for what I was hoping was going to be a radiator flush and a state inspection. To top off the night, on the run home from the garage, got bit by a dog, had to get a tetanus shot. The mechanic said that the water pump was bad, and the cost to fix is more than the car is worth. Trouble comes in threes, understood.

The Question- What's the best way to test if the water pump really is bad?
Do they get clogged? Any way to unclog it if it is?

The car's been great, engine still runs great. This site's been great, awesome info, I'm sure the car wouldn't have made it this far if it weren't for the info here. I'd drop a new engine in if the car had a sunroof, but I'm not going to bother to unless someone knows of a 3.5 cheap near philly. If I don't see a cheap engine, its up for sale.

Anyone selling trep/concorde/300m from this site near Philly?
Last Q....what can I get for it? Any takers on a trade- the car for a contract on the dog?
Thanks!
What? How can your 99 intrepid not be worth more than $1500 when my 93 and 94 are retail $2775? even their wholesale is $975.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm just guess from what I've seen. I wouldn't think a 99 with a shot engine (ok the engine isn't shot, but the h20 pump is) would be worth much more than $1500. I'll look it up on ebay and see.
 

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Hey pal, where you located I'm sure someone could help! Personally i don't think it could be a hard job, but then again I've never even seen a 2.7L in person. Every job is hard, just jump right into it and see how it goes, worst comes to worst you hit a hard spot you can slap it all back together.

Clayton
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Clayton,

I'm live in Newtown, PA. Anyone on this website who lives close to Newtown who's down a h20 pump change out on a 2.7?

You're right. Every job is tough until you jump into it. Trouble is the engine's got 144k on it, but it still runs great. Maybe I will change it out, I looked at the "how to" on this site, and it looks like a pretty time consuming job. I just figured after the amount of time I devote to it, I could have install a 3.5 in the car. That's the delimma....still have'nt had a chance to look at it.....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok.

Had a little time this weekend. I've gone through the chilton's and trying to troubleshoot and here's what I come up with. The car seems to take a long time to reach operating temp. After it is warmed up, there's no heat in the cabin. The 30 amp fuse keeps blowing, so neither of my fans ever come on. I disconnected both radiator fans, jumpered them with juice from the battery, they both seem to work fine. I pulled both fan relay's, tested each of them with an ohm meter, they seem to test fine as well. So I have a couple of questions;

1.) Will the fans seem to run fine when jumpered, but blow a fuse when connected normally? They don't seem to make a lot of noise when running while jumpered.
2.) How can I tell if I need a new thermostat?
3.) How can I tell if I need a new water pump?

Thanks.
 
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