DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was in the local Canadian Tire today and saw that Castrol GTX has included on their label that the oil has superior qualities to not break down and sludge up your engine. I havn't seen this on the label before... have they changed or added something to the oil? anyone know?

would be a lot cheaper than pouring mobil1 in all the time...especially with my 2.7L valve stem seal problem (burns sooo much oil)

any comments/info.???

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Oziyak said:
I was in the local Canadian Tire today and saw that Castrol GTX has included on their label that the oil has superior qualities to not break down and sludge up your engine. I havn't seen this on the label before... have they changed or added something to the oil? anyone know?

would be a lot cheaper than pouring mobil1 in all the time...especially with my 2.7L valve stem seal problem (burns sooo much oil)

any comments/info.???

thanks
Castrol is great oil, but no regular oil is as good as Mobil 1. Still, if my car burned that much oil I don't think I'd use the expensive Mobil 1 in it - I'd use the Castrol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks for the input guys... I honeslty think I might just give the castrol a try... I mean... it's right on the front of the bottle that it won't sludge up... and I do change my oil (and top it up) quite often... every 5000km for a change.. and every two weeks to top up really... so I dont' see it really sludging up... I'm more worried about wear from there not being enough oil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Oziyak said:
thanks for the input guys... I honeslty think I might just give the castrol a try... I mean... it's right on the front of the bottle that it won't sludge up... and I do change my oil (and top it up) quite often... every 5000km for a change.. and every two weeks to top up really... so I dont' see it really sludging up... I'm more worried about wear from there not being enough oil
What would it cost you to get the stem seals replaced? If the engine is in good shape otherwise it might be worthwhile. I have driven behind many an 80's Chrysler minivan with a Mitsu V6 and a stem seal problem and driving behind an oil stove like that is very nasty. I would really think that's a repair you should consider.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah... theres a good how-to sticky on this forum... so I was thinking of giving it a go myself... just don't have lots of time right now because of school... was gonna burn oil till I"m done then give it a shot when I have more free time... I just hope my O2 sensors and catalytic converter hold out

I think the labour for someone to do the job for me is pretty expensive :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
531 Posts
Oziyak said:
yeah... theres a good how-to sticky on this forum... so I was thinking of giving it a go myself... just don't have lots of time right now because of school... was gonna burn oil till I"m done then give it a shot when I have more free time... I just hope my O2 sensors and catalytic converter hold out

I think the labour for someone to do the job for me is pretty expensive :(
You have my sympathies about being in school. I have been going part-time for years to finish even a two-year degree, and this spring I took two classes in addition to my full time job and other duties so that I could finally finish and get my diploma. A huge dent in my personal time, so I know what you're saying.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks man... yeah.. it's crazy... I"m rounding my 7th year at university now and trying desperately to finish my masters before they suck any more money out of me .... it's time for me to start my life soon (age:26)... and I havn't yet had a full time job in my field... so the car has to take a back seat for now when it comes to big jobs

all I can do righ tnow is keep on top of the oil changes and brakes... might think of a coolant flush and trannyfluid change soon... but for now... not even much time for that
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
1,258 Posts
FWIW, I recently switched to dino oil (Castrol GTX 5W-30, specifically) after using only Mobil 1 5W-30 since purchasing the car in September '04. There is a noticeable lack of power, as well as the engine runs just a bit rougher. I switched because I was going through a quart or more of the Mobil 1 every week due to oil burning, so I got tired of the high cost. Not that dino oil is all that much cheaper nowadays.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah... that's the main reason I'm looking at swtiching too... it's about half price for a quart of gtx compared to mobil1 here for me though...

did you find your gas milage went down..

I get about 420km per tank of mostly city driving ... more like 400km per tank when I run the air conditioning a lot

thanks for sharing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
Look at it this way, they can pretty much print anything they want on the label. I have not seen to many oils say they "DO Sludge up" so they are just stating what is obvious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I guess if I just change my oil often enough.. there won't be enough thermal breakdown for it to matter

I used the gtx today... she's running very smooth ;)
I also topped it off with some lucas stabalizer... I know there was a thing with bob the oil guy and lucas... but for me... it seems to work just nicely

cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
believe it

I remember an article in Popular Science (you know, the ultimate oil authority) some years back in which they stated that the long molecule helix used to create the multigrade effect in oils varies considerably. The gist of the text was that a few companies, Castrol being one, use a more expensive additive that doesn't shear down due to mechanical shearing or heat. It's that shearing that creates a molecular mess that causes some types of sludge. So maybe Castrol is telling the truth. However, if you want to use synthetic, try WalMart's own brand. It is made by Quaker State and it's currently about $2.40 a quart in 5 qt jugs. It is a lower grade of synthetic than Mobil or Amsoil, being a severely hydrocracked dino oil rather that a synthesized full synthetic, but it's probably superior to any conventional oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
152 Posts
I really don't think I'd put anything oil-related that wasn't a name brand in my car. (IE: No Wallyworld oil for me thanks, lol.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm a bit of a name brand oil guy myself... my buddy puts motomaster surpreme in his truck... and it smells like rotten eggs when it comes out of the bottle...

I think name brand oild probably dont' sit on the shelf as long too

Oil does have a shelf life... even though I think it's a long time... I still like knowing the oil I pull off the shelf hasn't been sitting there for a couple months
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,388 Posts
GR8WHT said:
Look at it this way, they can pretty much print anything they want on the label. I have not seen to many oils say they "DO Sludge up" so they are just stating what is obvious.
Good point.

Look at it this way. Engineers that actually formulate the oil aren't the ones putting the pretty label on it. That's the job of the Marketing people. As many of you know, sludge is the latest buzz word when it comes to car engines. Its getting talked about a lot lately. Toyota has some engines that seem to be susceptible, as our 2.7's seems to be. What better way to market a product than to clearly label it "anti-sludge formula" or some other thing to get you to buy it. Do you think if you use Castrol GTX and don't change it for a year, it won't sludge up? Perhaps they have done something with the additive package in their oils that will prolong it from sludging, but all oils eventually will if left in an engine long enough. Buy a good brand of oil and change it regularly, and there shouldn't be an issue.

Personally, I've been running Havoline 5W-30. Only once did I try Wally World's synthetic (grey bottle) because they were out of Havoline. I won't use it again as I found a little bit of metal shavings in my oil filter after 2500 miles using Wally's Synthetic. I wouldn't have done it in the first place had I not read that it was repackaged Mobil 1. BTW, also I noticed more oil seepage at the back of my oil pan using the synth than dino oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,279 Posts
FraTrepid said:
I really don't think I'd put anything oil-related that wasn't a name brand in my car. (IE: No Wallyworld oil for me thanks, lol.)
Usually I'd agree with you. In the case of WalMart, however, they do set tight standards and the oil comes from a major manufacturer (QS, as I said) and is just relabeled. WalMart's oil filters are made by Champion Labs, who coincidentally also makes Mobil 1 filters.
I received an email from a Champion sales manager. Here is part of his reply:

"In terms of overall performance, industry tests prove that the SuperTech filter is the highest performing filter at Wal-Mart and is also among the top performing brands of all oil filters currently on the market. The logical question that comes to mind is 'How can this be the best filter when the price is the lowest of all brands on the shelf at Wal-Mart?' The answer is as follows. When introducing the SuperTech filter line, Purolator Products bid on the SuperTech business promising to use their same filter media (filter paper) that is currently found in their top-of-the-line PureOne filter (which sells for $5.99 at PepBoys). The filter media is the key element that determines filter performance. In order to retain our business, Champion Laboratories matched the competitive bid by offering one of its top-of-the-line filter medias -- the same filter media that is used in the Bosch filter (which sells for $5.49 at AutoZone). Basically, due to Wal-Mart's considerable buying power, a competitive bid situation resulted in the SuperTech filter being produced with a premium filter media at a low private label price.

If you look at the performance graphs on both the SuperTech and the Fram filter box, you'll note the tests are identical ---- The Single Pass Efficiency Test and the Multi-Pass Efficiency Test. You'll also note that the common performance results are the same. The graphs show documented evidence, closely reviewed by Wal-mart prior to the printing of the unit box graphs, that the SuperTech filter outperforms the Fram filter in these two critical categories. One other point to note -- the Fram filter, being a national brand, carries additional advertising costs that are passed on to the consumer in the price of the filter. Private label filters like SuperTech carry no hidden advertising costs and are therefore always lower priced in comparison to national brands."
So my take on this is that if Wallyworld has that kind of muscle on its filter business, the oil QS makes for them is probably as good as any major brand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
979 Posts
Oziyak said:
I was in the local Canadian Tire today and saw that Castrol GTX has included on their label that the oil has superior qualities to not break down and sludge up your engine. I havn't seen this on the label before... have they changed or added something to the oil? anyone know?

would be a lot cheaper than pouring mobil1 in all the time...especially with my 2.7L valve stem seal problem (burns sooo much oil)

any comments/info.???

thanks
The newest version of GTX has some yellow on the label that says something about improved sludge control or something like that. In fact, Castrol did change the additive package in GTX this year (2006) and the new labelling reflects the new additive technology. It is supposed to actually be a worthwhile change in the chemistry, rather than just a change on the label to grab peoples attention.

Change your own oil if you are able. For the same or less money than a shop change, you'll end up with better quality oil and filter. If you're at CTC, avoid the Fram filters and go for the Quaker State filters (significantly better than Fram). The Valvoline Maxlife filters are decent but they are ridiculously overpriced. Or go to a NAPA and get a NAPA Gold filter (NAPA Gold 1085 is the standard size; NAPA Gold 1068 is slightly larger and works too).
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top