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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys just wondering if the site had a sticky on changing shoes. im going to do my in a bit, just wanted to look over a few things before i perform the job. I searched but i always get shitty thread. let me know fellaz! btw its a 95, 3.3
 

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Discussion Starter #2
any stickies?
 

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Here you go :

Brake Drums

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 1


Fig. 1: Slide the drum off the rear hub and bearing assembly with a rocking motion if necessary



Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheel being worked on.

Raise the vehicle and support safely.

Remove the rear wheels.

Remove the brake drum from the rear hub and bearing assembly. If the drum is difficult to remove, increase the clearance between the brake shoes and the drum as follows:

Remove the rubber plug from the top of the brake support plate.

Rotate the automatic shoe adjuster screw with an upward motion using a medium size flat tipped tool.

Remove the brake drum from the rear hub and bearing.

Inspect the brake shoe linings and drums for wear, contamination and scoring.

To install:

Install the rear brake drum onto the rear hub and bearing assembly. Adjust the brake shoes.

Install the rear wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern sequence to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).

Brake Shoes

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1 through 12


Fig. 1: Remove the dust cap covering the hub and bearing




Fig. 2: Remove the cotter pin (discard) and nut retainer, then the hub retaining nut and washer




Fig. 3: Using a pair of pliers, remove the automatic adjuster lever spring




Fig. 4: Rotate the adjuster screw enough to move the shoes away from the wheel cylinder boots




Fig. 5: Disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever




Fig. 6: Remove the both of the lower shoe-to-anchor plate springs




Fig. 7: Remove the 2 hold-down springs from the brake shoes with a special spring removal tool




Fig. 8: Remove the upper shoe-to-return spring, then the automatic adjuster and lever from the backing plate




Fig. 9: Separate the shoes from the automatic adjuster mechanism




Fig. 10: The automatic adjuster lever is part of the one shoe




Fig. 11: Lubricate the eight contact areas shown with a multi-purpose lubricant




Fig. 12: Exploded view of the left rear shoe assembly



Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels.

Raise the vehicle and support safely. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums.

Remove the dust cap from the rear hub and bearing assembly. Then remove the cotter pin and the nut lock from the spindle.

Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly retainer nut and washer. Remove the rear hub and bearing assembly from the spindle.

Remove the automatic adjuster spring from the adjuster lever.

Rotate the automatic adjuster star wheel enough so both shoes move out far enough to be free of the wheel cylinder boots.

Disconnect the parking brake cable from the actuating lever. Disconnect parking brake cable one side at a time.

Remove the both lower brake shoe-to-anchor springs.

Remove the 2 brake shoe hold-down springs from the brake shoes.

Remove the brake shoes, upper shoe-to-shoe return spring, automatic adjuster and automatic adjuster lever from the backing plate as an assembly.

Separate the brake shoes from the automatic adjuster mechanism.

Remove the brake shoe automatic adjuster lever from the leading brake shoe.

To install:

Thoroughly clean and dry the backing plate. To prepare the backing plate, lubricate the bosses, anchor pin and parking brake actuating lever pivot surface lightly with lithium based grease.

Remove, clean and dry all parts still on the old shoes. Lubricate the star wheel shaft threads with anti-seize lubricant.

Assemble both brake shoes, the top shoe-to-shoe return spring, automatic adjuster and automatic adjuster lever before mounting on vehicle. Make sure the ends of the automatic adjusters are positioned above the extruded pins in the webbing of the brake shoes prior to installation.

Install the brake shoe assembly onto the brake support plate and install the hold-down springs.

Install the lower anchor springs and reconnect the parking brake cable to the park brake lever of the trailing brake shoe.

Rotate the serrated adjuster nut to remove the free-play from the adjuster assembly. Install the automatic adjuster lever spring on the lead brake shoe assembly and the automatic adjuster lever.

Install the rear hub and bearing assembly. Install the washers and retainer nuts and tighten to 124 ft. lbs. (168 Nm).

Install the nut lock, new cotter pin and dust cover to the rear spindle.

Adjust brake shoes so not to interfere with brake drum installation. Install the rear brake drums.

After installing the brake drums, pump the brake pedal several times to partially adjust the brake shoes. To verify proper operation of the self-adjusting parking brake, be sure that both rear brakes are not dragging when the parking brake pedal is released.

Install the rear wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts.

Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).

Road test the vehicle. The automatic adjusters will continue brake adjustment during the road test of the vehicle.
 

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If you have anti lock brakes never push the brake fluid back into the master cyl.
Alway open a bleeder and push the fluid out that way or you'll risk the chance of wreaking you anti lock brake system.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The diagrams are slightly different from the model i have. I have no cotter pin as well as a dust cap covering.
 

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DKILLA said:
The diagrams are slightly different from the model i have. I have no cotter pin as well as a dust cap covering.
Umm, are you in a hurry ? If not I can get you diagrams from the factory manual for your car tomorrow night.
 

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When I did my rear drums , they did not come off without a hammer and crowbar,

the adjuster wheeel had broken teeth from when 5 years earlier I had given the car to a cheapo place for an exam.

the mechanic got rough and didn't fix it.... so I had only 1 rear drum adjusted and working


I bought new drums cause the old ones had hammer marks :icon_evil and new ones only cost 45 bucks

hey they worked for 10 years the new ones only neeed work for emm 5


the disks were easier to work on at the front :fun_06:
 

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What kind of socket size etc will I need to ge the hub retaining nut and washer off the rear axle on my 97 trep. I dont have anything near the size it has thanks
 

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I used an 1 7/8" when I changed the wheel bearing. I don't think you have to remove the Hub assy. I didn't when I replaced my brakes.
 
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