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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was browsing around the12volt, and discovered this interesting find.



DO NOT INSTALL this or any other remote start system in a vehicle with a STANDARD TRANSMISSION. The consequences should be obvious. Below is a basic relay remote start system. It is not shown with any inhibits, nor a single trigger to activate and deactivate it, and does not have "rev protection". You are much better off with a system you can purchase from a local dealer or retailer. They include many important safety features and come with a warranty, unlike the one below. But if you must make one from relays, here are the basics (shown below without the diodes across the coils). You will have to customize this to work with the vehicle you plan to install it into. Make note of each wire's function in the harness connected to the back of the ignition switch. You will have to duplicate these in order to have a successful installation. Only advanced installers should attempt this. I have made several of these and they are still on the road today. I included timers and inhibits in them to perform the same as a manufacturer's piece. But I still prefer to use theirs. It takes less time to install from start to finish and theirs are a whole lot smaller.


Now, I don't know how I would set up the diodes or the triggers. I know that I would have the brake pedal be the trigger that kills the remote starter. I would wire it in with my alarm, so I'm not quite sure what I would use as the trigger signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I can't believe that this doesn't spark the interest of ANYONE on this site. are you guys NUTS? Those of you who have RKE could turn your trunk button into an autostart button...for a fraction of the price...somewhere around 30 dollars.
 

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It's interesting that it can be rigged that way and I'm surprized there aren't more reponses, too. But I really don't want remote start.

BTW - I bet that won't work with the Sentry Key ... :)
 

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I don't want to piss on anyone's parade...but may I ask where the brake deactivation wire is? Hood Pin? 2nd, 3rd, and possibly a fourth IGN? Parking light activation, horn pulse, 400 milliamp negative or positive relay trigger wires? I mean.......DUDE!

I can go buy a neat little plastic box encasing all of this **** already worked out! No need to spend 3hrs. wiring up a relay pack...when I just bought a remote start from Pep Boys for 40 bucks...and installed it a parking lot at dusk in roughly an hour!

Is it really a wonder people aren't excited about the prospect of saving 10 dollars? Especially in light of the added nightmare that ensues the moment you decide to be that cheap, and begin assembly. 3hrs. later you'll be left with a severely sub par effort...that by the way, doesn't even have a provision for an antenna.... Man...really? Your serious?.......wow
 

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I can go buy a neat little plastic box encasing all of this **** already worked out! No need to spend 3hrs. wiring up a relay pack...when I just bought a remote start from Pep Boys for 40 bucks...and installed it a parking lot at dusk in roughly an hour!

Hey what one did you get and if it is that easy I will try it out tomorrow.
 

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I like the post and it intrests me but seems very confuseing. Then if I rigged it to start with our turnk key how could I make it turn off? hit trunk key again. And then I wouldn't be able to have the remote trunk release I assume
 

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Dodge_Intrepid_Teen said:
I like the post and it intrests me but seems very confuseing. Then if I rigged it to start with our turnk key how could I make it turn off? hit trunk key again. And then I wouldn't be able to have the remote trunk release I assume
No, you would have to tie it into another RKE output for maybe the lock button.

You could make the trunk button do both on and off, but you would need a circuit called a flip-flop between the RKE out and remote start trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
ATTENTION HYBRIDMAN. I read over your post several times, trying not to take your "subpar" opinion personally. But your response was in cruel intentions to dis what I had posted. I didn't say I was going to do this setup, nor did I say it was the best. I did however say that it was interesting, and that it would be worth trying. And by the way, what do you think a starter module is? ITS A SERIES OF ONBOARD RELAYS! And about your nifty box from Pepboys:

I'll tell you this much. There is no way I would stoop low enough to expect high quality starting systems out of a 40 dollar pepboys purchase. While I have my eyes on an upper-level starting system, I would rather use the relay-stew setup than the "value-o-matic" one you probably bought. Besides, this convenient setup that I mentioned is for something like an auxilary button on a current alarm. Yes, its confusing, but remember that it was thought up by somebody smarter than you and me. It is unfair to dis knowledge that supercedes your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Too add to the fun, there isn't need for third or fourth ignition...and the hood pins, door pins, and what not would all go into play with the single wire (trigger to deactivate remote start) being tapped into several other wires...door triggers (-) and you could tap into the underhood light as a source as well.
 

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Waste of Posting Space

Dude, I agree, the guy who thought that up is smarter than you are.....but relays are about the dumbest electronic items there are. So you're aware: A relay is an electromagnet...not the most complex item in the world!

And, perhaps for you, putting a few simple units in parallel/series with one another constitutes complexity. But that diagram is anything but! That's the problem...it lacks complexity,(alot like yourself). Those additional "complexities," apparently beyond your grasp, are absolute necessities that can be had without detriment to nearly anyone's wallet, or safety! I paid 40 bucks for mine!

How can you possibly take yourself seriously? Do you know how much a bocsh relay costs? Find out and I think you'll discover what everyone else already has...It's cost prohibitive!

It's cost prohibitive...even if you're little diagram worked perfectly! Which I'm sure it would until the owner started his car into someone elses...and that's provided we can even use the unit anyway. Where are the transmitting devices and associated circuitry?

My remote car starter's quality is actually very good...It's made by designtech...and has worked safely and adequately for only a month now, but I forsee no immediate problems with my clean installation...or the unit itself. (Which I'm aware has several micro-relays with-in it, thanks genius)

I haven't done the 12-volt install thing professionally for about 7 years...but not much changes with the products...and how they work. The installs can get more complex...due to proprietary designs by manufacturers. But alams, car starters, keyless...etc, are not complex.I know many drewling idiots..that do it for work everyday. These people as they are, prove how basic the topic really is. Just because you don't understand it...does not make it complex. It makes YOU who you are...

Just stick to car audio mags etc...and stop wasting space for rhetoric which is clearly motivated by a strong desire to appear knowledgeable on topics you're lost on....
 

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The fact that it lacks all those safety items listed in the "warning" message would make this something I wouldn't even consider. Without the hoodpin safety someone could easilly get hurt working under the hood if someone accidentally triggers the starter. Without the over rev safety it's possible to cause some serious damage. And as for the remote, who wants a remote with a 10' range on their remote start. I'd like to not have to walk out to my car to use the remote. I want to be able to roll over in my bed and hit the remote or while I'm standing in the checkout line, etc. What's the point of remote start if you have to be stading by the car to start it???
 

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ITrep96 said:
You have to get a spare sentry key, register it with the car, then place the key in the car near the steering colum. Of course this defeats the reason for a sentry key system.
That was the method used about 10 years ago when systems like this first appeard. But since then there are much "safer" ways of doing it. Many that don't even require additional keys and are only active during remote start leaving the OEM system working as normal...
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Listen. You’re new around here, and obviously don’t know anything about me, as I don’t know anything about you. I admit it was wrong of me to prejudge and throw your knowledge toward the pile of the less informed. But I want you to know, that I myself am not a bullshit poster. There has never been a time that I was about to begin answering a question I’m uneducated about. Contrary to what you may have seen, I am not a lumbering idiot. I learn things just as quickly and eagerly as the next man, and store that knowledge as tightly as possible. But dude, why do you assume that I’m on such a low totem? To tell you the truth, I am hardly informed in the car audio realm, though I know some about it. Like you said, these installs are easy, and nobody has to understand their inside operations to use them. They’re all plug and play. But just because I didn’t dive into the protection features of the alarms, delays, and the signal transmission, does not mean that I throw my words in the sky, and expect them to land in a well assembled bullshit response.

Look through my posts, go ahead, begin your browsing. I have never been one to shout my blab and say something to look smarter. I say what I know, and if you read into my posts, I say nothing more. Browse through the many posts from old times to current, and you’ll see that I have learned a lot by asking questions: as it is the best way to learn. I am humble enough to admit my weakness and find out how the hell something works or gets fixed. This makes it possible to help others out. You’re probably more informed than me, you’re older, wiser, and more experienced. BUT, being older, you should have the decency to post an intelligible response that doesn’t entail the main intention of slander. I didn’t come here to be a ***** to other people, and shove down their walls of self-respect. You obviously forget the person behind the screen, and disregard the feelings of your fellow human being. If you want to come back with more slander, its all yours. I can’t control your words OR your opinion. But I’m not a DROOLING idiot, and I do know a lot more than you probably think I do. There is also a lot that I don’t know. I think of these things as roads I’ve not crossed YET. Unfortunately, you’re acting narrow and ignorant….and you see these things as a disability that prohibits new learning. Why don’t you look back in your life, there was once a time when someone knew a lot more about something than you did, and that didn’t make you dumb, it just meant you had room to grow. Thanks for trying to tear me down though, I really appreciate it. Merry Christmas.
 

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What I find is a joke, is he went, and just brought up a point, and you started ripping him for it... Calling his post a waste of time, but all you did was waste everyone elses time dragging on your arguement. I don't blame the man at all for defending himself to your flagrant, un-provoked attack. This site is all about people trying new things, making suggestions, and just throwing random ideas out there... I've seen many ideas here that are pretty damn cool... Would I ever do 'em? Probably not, but it's interesting none the less. People like you, that will attack someone else for their ideas are such a negative thing on this site, and frankly, I'm glad it doesn't happen that often. This is such a great "family" of car enthusiasts (even if people think we're nuts for putting mod's on a family sedan... lol)...
 
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