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Discussion Starter #1
I checked my 96 LHS the other night for engine fault codes and got no codes, I was so happy! Today I drive for about 30 minutes and at a red light, the car started shaking a little. I was a little weary about going the 40 mph speed limit with my car feeling so weird, so I drove a little slower to the mall. On the way to the mall, I tried to get up to the 40 mph speed limit, but the car wouldn't go past 2,000 RPM... the noise from the exhaust wasn't normal. I parked it, opened the hood and near where the transmission fluid is it was lightly smoking. I closed the hood, went inside the mall and looked around for an hour. Came back to the car, it started shaking more then when I was at that red light, and when I put it in reverse it drove even worse. The check engine light came on, and I was scared to drive it home. I drove it home where it's been sitting, it's hard to recreate the shaking, it happens when it wants to. The temp. gauge has gone to the H (overheating) twice this week. We took the car to a radiator shop the other day and they said nothing looked wrong and if it overheated again to drive it there WHILE it was overheating so they could see the problem.

Since the check engine light came out, I figured I should check for the fault codes again... and I got:
1st blink, 2 more blinks, pause, 4 blinks, 3 more blinks...
Does that mean code 12 and 43?

Any suggestions? I want to get this problem solved... I'm really not in the mood to have a mechanic suggest any fixes.
 

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The code 12 is nothing. It just means your battery was disconnected in the last 50 start cycles. The 43 is a problem though. I think you'll find this thread useful.
 

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43 is a basic misfire code, try plugs, wires, coil, IAC and intake gaskets
 

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Discussion Starter #4
muscle, the link you posted has no thread ID at the end. Thanks for the replies guys, I'm going to bring it to another local mechanic and have them scan for problems... I also have a few things that I don't have time to look at/fix: sunroof creeks, headlights weren't mounted straight, brakes squeek, doors aren't sealed right (hot air comes in/cold air is let out).
 

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don't waste your money man, start by spraying the where the upper and lower intakes connect with carb cleaner, if the idle speeds up, you have an intake gasket leak, set costs like $10 at autozone, when did you tune it up last? check the plugs, clean the IAC, get the ignition coil pack tested at autozone if none of the above works! I had a code 43 and spent over $200 on plugs, wires, coil, IAC and all it turned out to be was a leaking intake gasket.... a couple hours of work and I had it running like a top
 

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get the codes scanned at autozone, they help you narrow it down, I'd take a guess at multiple random misfires (gasket leak) or cylinder ? misfire
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Autozone scanned it... misfire on cylinder 5. Luckily the car was REALLY messing up when I brought it in, it was shaking us out of the car... was idling at 500 RPM or so and the check engine light was blinking.

I brought it to a mechanic, he said the car has the original wiring and looks like it has NEVER been tuned up during it's 126,000 lifetime. I honestly don't have the time or patience to replace all the wires and filters. He said after it's tuned up he will drive it around and see if he notices any other problems. I have a feeling my car won't be leaving the shop without a new water pump/timing belt either. Hopefully this is all that has to be done for a while.

I know I have a heavy foot... when accelerating from a stop light to go the speed limit I have it at 4,000 RPM for a few seconds, is that really bad for the car? Ever since I've been driving it frequently I've been having small problems.
 

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before you have your $$ spent, though it might need it, on all of these tune-up parts. have mechanic check for an intake leak. it is very common on this cylinder as that is where the water jackets are. It is also the most difficult of the repairs. It will only be about a 1/2 hr labor to pull timing covers to check water pump and belt. You will pay out the ass to get all the tuneup parts only to find that it has not solved the CAUSE. I assume this is a 3.5 motor?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Yeah, it's a 3.5 motor.

Car is running better then it's ran in 2 years... had a major tune up done. Firstly, the air filter was a POS, you could shake it apart, it literally discinegrated when we shook it. The fuel filter was clogged to hell. There was an oil leak which got into the spark plugs and caused the misfire, and the valve cover gasket was replaced (the cause of that oil leak) as well as the valve seals. New spark plugs were put in, new PCV valve, new ignition wires and a new fuel filter was put in. All fluid levels were checked and the ignition timing was adjusted.

Mechanic put on the paper that the two front motor mounts are damaged and they are also suggesting that I have them replace the timing belt and water pump.

Thanks for the suggestions guys... now you can kill me for paying $500 to get this fixed :(
 

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check on the spark plug tubr that had the oil on it in a couple of days. was it soaked? a leaking valve cover gasket does not get oil in the plug. this is usually from a metal sperk plug tube that screws into the cylinder head. there is sealant on the threads that fails over time and the only way to do this is to get a new tube or CAREFULLY get the old one out without distorting it and reseal it. i highly doubt he did this.
how, pray tell, did he "adjust the timing". to do so requires opening up the timing cover and pulling off the belt to adjust it on the cam marks. if he did all of this and did not slip on a new belt and unbolt the water pump and put in a new one, something is wrong with this guy. i doubt that your timing was adjusted. if the car runs without issue, and you happy with the $$ spent fine. i do not know this will solve your issues. if not, post back-if idle is still rough you will probably be replacing an intake manifold gasket. keep your fingers crossed. i'm still chasing a slightly rough idle and a occasionally rough start. gonna change the map sensor. if no luck, on to pulling the timing coverto see if off a notch-but my belt was replaced 30k ago. i get no regular codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
**** **** **** **** ****. Drove it about 7 miles away, it overheated really bad... smoking big time. I turned it off, let it cool for an hour.. drove and it overheated again really bad. Then after about 15 minutes of driving it without hitting the gas, a noise sounding like the noise from a diesel truck started happening if I accelerated. Needle went past the H and this red light came on, the one that looks like a thermometer with waves underneath. A block from home the temp. dropped to complete C, check engine light came on and then I got home. Opened the hood and it's been smoking for about 20 minutes.

EDIT: Getting a code 22 now I think.
 

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Mr

bring it back to the assclown who worked on it and have them fix it right and don't give them another dime.
 

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I keep looking at your first post on this,, "noise from exhaust wansent normal",, smoking fron side back by trans, stick there are a few coolant lines back theremm but another thought is maybe a clogged cat converter?? it will make one overheat,, and smoke,, and run shitty,, but you also may have a sticking thermostat,,
im stumped but theres a few ideas,, let us know I just hope from the heat it didnt damage it :violin:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well my girlfriend's dad's friend owns a shop, so he told me to bring it there tomorrow. His first thoughts are a bad thermostat, but I have a gut feeling it's something very bad. The car ran great after the tune up. The mechanic said he was fixing the idling rough and fixing the check engine light... he fixed what he said he would. He said he couldn't fix the overheating without seeing it overheat... and it wouldn't overheat for him.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, brought it to my girlfriend's dad's friend... left it there a few hours. It overheated bad on the way there, just after 5 minutes. Called him a few hours later and he said he filled the coolant and I wasn't exactly sure what he said about the thermostat... something about Florida cars don't NEED it... he said he "gutted it" - told me if anything happens to let him know and he'll help me out.

Happy to say I drove it for about an hour without the temperature gauge going past the middle. I drained the oil and filled it up with Penzoil 10W30 after I got the car home... it's running great! Thanks for all the help... I guess I should have the fuel recall serviced one of these days.
 

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*SLAP* $500 for a tune-up?!? your money, but..... you probably have cheap wires, cheap filters, etc. mechanic spent probably $50 on parts man.... overheating after driving, sounds like he did something to your cooling system, got some air in there.... did he do anything that would have involved draining coolant or opening your cooling system whatsoever, if so, he didn't bleed it properly
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It was overheating pre-tune up, he just fixed some small other problems. I know, it was a mistake to get it done, but I needed the car and I had the money (now I have no money). $45 to fix the overheating, I'm in shock still of paying $500 at the first guy hoping my overheating would be fixed.

This car better last me!
 

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“Now you can kill me for paying $500 to get this fixed.” $500.00
“a noise sounding like the noise from a diesel truck started happening” damage has been done. More $$$ in the future.
Maintaining your car at proper intervals…. PRICELESS!
 
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