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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a Dodge Intrepid Base 2000 2.7L V6 Engine that has a mileage of 127,590. My mechanic said that the car is running in good condition and no problems. The car runs smoothly and very quiet.

After a couple of days I noticed that the oil lights always flickers every time I got out from the freeway and go to stop in a traffic light (RPM:500).

I changed my synthetic oil twice and changed the oil filter. Also, flushed my transmission fluid. My mechanic also cleaned the engine oil pan for possible oil sludge and changed the oil gasket. My mechanic said that the oil pressure drops when my car is on idle. Still the problems occurs and so I went back and they changed the seal of the engine oil pan. My mechanic also changed the sensor. Now, the problem is still there and it still flickers (blinks) every time I got out from the FREEWAY and stop. When I drive in a CITY ROAD and stops, the problem does not occur. I am getting annoyed that my mechanic cannot solve my problem. Please help me.
 

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oil pressure at hot idle can drop as low as 5 pounds,, go to the dealer,, get a CHRYSLER oil pressure sending unit you should be good to go, remember dealer part only, bout 19 bucks
 

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As long as you don't have any other engine problems or noise, you don't have an issue to worry about, hot oil pressure on the higher mileage 2.7 is often unusually low, especially with synthetic and thinner oils. Do an actual pressure test and as stated above, replace the sending unit with an OEM Mopar unit if the old one is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No mechanical noiise from the engine I assume?
Yes, no mechanical noise.

crypt keeper said:
Try a new oil pressure sensor from the dealer the aftermarkets don't work.
They did change the oil sensor already.

mnitetrain said:
Do an actual oil pressure test, if OK THEN get the dealer sender unit.
They did an oil pressure test and it is fine.

DrDodge said:
oil pressure at hot idle can drop as low as 5 pounds,, go to the dealer,, get a CHRYSLER oil pressure sending unit you should be good to go, remember dealer part only, bout 19 bucks
Would they install it for me for how much or just buy the parts and let my mechanic assemble it?

dodgebob68 said:
As long as you don't have any other engine problems or noise, you don't have an issue to worry about, hot oil pressure on the higher mileage 2.7 is often unusually low, especially with synthetic and thinner oils. Do an actual pressure test and as stated above, replace the sending unit with an OEM Mopar unit if the old one is bad.
What about the oil pressure switch connector and wire terminal/vent? Do you think it causes that problem too?

Thanks guys.
 

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What about the oil pressure switch connector and wire terminal/vent? Do you think it causes that problem too?

Thanks guys.
Obviously, if the connector to the switch is loose you will have a flickering issue, but that seldom is the cause. If you are operating in over 50 degree temps you could jump up to 10W30 or 10W40 conventional oil and see if the change helps the idle oil pressure. In over 70degree temps here in Florida I ran 20W50 in my 2.7 and had great pressure all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Obviously, if the connector to the switch is loose you will have a flickering issue, but that seldom is the cause. If you are operating in over 50 degree temps you could jump up to 10W30 or 10W40 conventional oil and see if the change helps the idle oil pressure. In over 70degree temps here in Florida I ran 20W50 in my 2.7 and had great pressure all the time.
I live in Los Angeles, California and we use 10W40. I am going to change the oil switch this week. My mechanic changed the oil sending unit already and the problem still occurs.
 

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I live in Los Angeles, California and we use 10W40. I am going to change the oil switch this week. My mechanic changed the oil sending unit already and the problem still occurs.
but,, did he get the sending unit from CHRYSLER??????????? I doubt he did
 

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the differance is , the oe one is made to read the lower pressure,, one from like auto zone napa etc,, the range is not great enough
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks guys.

There was something odd that I noticed in my car. When I drove my car on the freeway for 10 miles around 8-10am to my work, the check oil light was flickering every time I got out the freeway and stop. However, I drove my car from Los Angeles to San Diego (100 miles) and the check oil light did not flicker last night because it was cold.

I have new issues that my coolant air bleeder has small leakage. My mechanic is charging me for $135 for the parts and repair. Is that a good price? Is it possible to seal it instead of changing the parts? If I don't change it, what would happen to my car?

I am sorry guys if I ask a lot of question. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago and this is my first car. I also have few background on car mechanics and I am starting to learn.
 

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Where is it leaking from and what part (s) does your mechanic suggest to replace?
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Problem solved! After all the drama and non stop replacements.
*1. Cleaning Oil Pan.
*2. Changing the Sensor.
*3. Changing the Oil Sender.
*4. Oil Cap and the Camshaft.
*5. Changing Synthetic Oil.
*6. Checking the Oil Pressure: Normal.
*7. Changing the Radiator cap. (Seal was broken).
*8. Changing Oil Pan Gasket. (It was leaking after my mechanic cleaned the oil pan).
*9. Changing the Coolant Air Bleeder. (It was leaking).

The problem was the OIL SWITCH.
My mechanic replaced an autozone best of best quality (As he said) oil switch but it got worst. And so, he replaced it with original parts and the flickering is gone.
If oil switch was not the issue, my last resort was changing the OIL PUMP. Fortunately, it did not end that way.

I was kinda depress after all the marathon repairs that I have done that was only the problem.
It was not a mechanical issue instead it was electrical.
Nevertheless, I am less worried since my mechanic cleaned my engine for possible oil sludge and did a lot of stuff.

I am going to take care of my car by doing this:
1. Using Chevron Gas with 87 octane rating.
- Chevron is currently the best quality of gas in the Market.
- 87 Octane Rating because it says on the manual not to use premium.
2. I will be using Pennzoil Ultra (Ultra Class Full Synthetic).
- This will prevent fast build up of oil sludge.
- I heard AMSoil is the best oil in the market but I heard controversies that
it could also kill your engine that's why they don't mass production in the market.
- Pennzoil is the recommended oil of Chrysler.
- They use Pennzoil in 2.7 engine that they are currently have in new cars.
(Lame Chrysler still makes 2.7L engine until now for newer cars).
- Never use non-synthetic oil.
3. Changing my oil every 2500-3000 miles.
- I prefer to spend money in oil rather than spending money on engine repairs.
4. Driving my car for an average of 65 miles per hour. (70 is max).
- Less chance to overheat the engine and cause problems to other parts.
5. When my car is on stop/idle and I step on my gas pedal, I gently push it very slowly to prevent stressing the engine.
-If the gas pedal is stepped on gently to accelerate rather than slammed to the floor to beat out the car in the next lane at a red light, better gas mileage is achieved.
- When the gas pedal is depressed hard, the gas engine burns fuel and stresses the car.
6. I always warm up the engine before running until the oil temperature gauge goes up a little.
- It prevents the engine from burning oil.
7. Monitor for engine sound changes every time I ran the car.
- My car is running smooth for now.
8. Check all fluids before driving.
9. Monitor my millage, check the status of my timing chain, oil color for possible sludge, and water pump.

Sorry, I am new into this. If you have any objections or additional stuff please let me know.
Thank you.
 
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