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One thing that always come to mind after a swap:

The four bolts that hold the flex plate to the torque converter.
Are you sure that all four are down tight?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes Sir, all tightened and torqued down properly with Blue Thread Locker. If the bolts we're loose or backed out, I'll hear the Knock Everytime (Hot or Cold) and as soon as I start the Engine, right? I would think. But, the knock/clack only shows up after the Engine warms up...
 

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If it is a connecting rod problem, usually the noise comes and goes as you accelerate and decelerate the engine, and may change intensity with speed. I can't quite tell from listening to your videos.

If it was rocker issues, it would be more constant noise intensity with engine speed and load. The 3.5's have been known to develop serious rocker issues.

Just a couple of things to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Peva. So if what You just stated Describes the symptoms of bad connecting rods, then I can confidently say it's not it, because this clack knock is present at idle but only when operating temp is reached. Even at idle You can barely hear it unless You stick Your ear down close to the Engine, it have to be rev'd up to be more pronounced. Which is why I'm thinking the damage from this knock is not yet fatal and could probably be fixed by finding the bad Bearing with the knock and just Replacing it. Assuming the crack is not all scarred up.. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well that's not My case here, only when Engine warms up does the knock start Knocking. But, I'm convinced it's a rod knock though, it sounds so typical.. So Im looking to go the Just Replacing the Bad Bearing Route. I know Y'all will probably disapprove, but I've seen folks that it worked out great for... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes Sir, all tightened and torqued down properly with Blue Thread Locker. If the bolts we're loose or backed out, I'll hear the Knock Everytime (Hot or Cold) and as soon as I start the Engine, right?.
Yep, absolutely.
Well that's not My case here, only when Engine warms up does the knock start Knocking. But, I'm convinced it's a rod knock though, it sounds so typical.. So Im looking to go the Just Replacing the Bad Bearing Route. I know Y'all will probably disapprove, but I've seen folks that it worked out great for... ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update, I Finally figured out where that noise is coming from. I hadn't spent enough time with the car to carefully listen to where the nose was coming from. I initially thought it was Rod Bearings, but, I'm glad I didn't go fiddling with the Bearings cos I would've in for a rude awakening. So it turns out that it's a top end noise and it's On the Driver side Bank. But, I'm lost what exactly it is if it's the Camshaft Itself or The Cam Sprocket.. ? I did change the Cam Sprocket as the Interchange Info suggested.. So idk if the Sprocket was bad before I even Changed it Over.. ? Or I Installed it wrongly, Or the CamShaft just gave out (Which I'm sure is very very rare) so I'm kind of lost again to what next move to take/make any help?
Thanks.
 

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I’m not an inside-the-engine expert, but unless someone more knowledgeable than myself tells you otherwise, I think I’d pull the valve cover and look it over for rocker issues. As I mentioned, the 3.2/3.5 are known for problems in the rocker mechanism.
 

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Did you use the same cam bolt? FSM says to replace. But I checked for necking, and used loctite. Just another thing to check...

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
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