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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1997 3.5 Chrysler intrepid won’t start

hear is the back story I replaced the v belt and drove it the next day and was good until I found out my tensioner pulley didn’t seat and it fell off and blow the serpentine belt and immediately bogged out and died found oil if my plugs so I replaced the head gasket still no start noticed weak spark so I tried new plugs and a coil pack still no start check the wiring harness make sure no wires were damaged, swapped fuses around, it should the code for crank and cam sensors witch I replaced but it still won’t start I have tried taking to people about it but no one I know has worked on these cars and know one has a clue what is wrong or what to check now I need help I can’t afford to send it to a shop and can fix it if I can find out what is wrong

for codes it just show 12 and 55 now
 

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I only know 2nd gen., so I'm not going to be any good for detailed help, but is your fuel pump running (fuse or relay bad?)? (Ignition coil and fuel injectors are fed power from the ASD relay and same fuse, so ASD relay and related fuse(s) aren't your problem since you do have spark.)

If someone with hands-on experience with 1st gen. comes along, I defer to them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
fuel pump is working good and injectors have power and I cleaned them as well
 

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CPS? Crankshaft Position Sensor?
 

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Ron may bring this up, but the cam and crank sensors should be from the dealer. Aftermarket parts are not as reliable for working. Just bringing that up as a possibility.

You said you replaced a head gasket. Is your timing set correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
They weren’t from a dealer. I pulled the cover off and checked my timing and it was good
 

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have you tried starting fluid or a little squirt of gas througfh the throttle body or vacuum line to see if it fires at all?
injectors and coils are fired by the computer.
either no firing signal (crank/cam sensor..)
or power to your computer is bad.
bad asd relay may do it too.
 

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Hmmm.
Spark ☑
Fuel ☑
Timing ☑

Must be overlooking something. Things that come to mind to verify/triple check:
Actually getting a spark at the plugs?
Injectors actually getting driven by ECM outputs?
Actually have fuel pressure?
All fuses good - checked with ohmmeter - not just visually checked (because they can visually fool you)?
Fuse/relay socket terminals making solid contact to fuses, not corroded?
Relays good?
Timing actually correct?
All harness connectors completely mated, no bad/corroded terminals, no wires with damaged insulation or pinched/shorted to ground?
Aftermarket timing sensors not defective?
Battery voltage >12 volts, no bad/weak connections of battery voltage to system?
Good gounds to engine, battery, good connections at battery, good engine ground strap(s)?
 

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Check Fusible Link near the PDC.

Check the A/c Pressure Transducer passenger side lower frame rail. (It uses the 5 volt sensor rail and if belt ripped or shorted out could cause issues)

Have you tried starting fluid to narrow if its a fuel or spark related issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I the fuses and Conections at the fuse but didn’t find anything I was able to borrow a code reader to see if it would show something different and it couldn’t even red the ecm so I am going to replace it and see what happens hope it works

when The tensioner pulley came off I think it might have hit the ecm and killed it there for killing the car
 

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I the fuses and Conections at the fuse but didn’t find anything I was able to borrow a code reader to see if it would show something different and it couldn’t even red the ecm so I am going to replace it and see what happens hope it works

when The tensioner pulley came off I think it might have hit the ecm and killed it there for killing the car
ECM is under the airbox, behind a frame horn. If the pulley hit it you've got some major damage.
 
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