Alright sounds good! I’ll definitely do that! Thanks for the response!3m medium surface conditioning discs; on a drill; make sure and cover all oil passages and surfaces you are not cleaning and use a vacuum cleaner all over afterwards;
Once all thats done wipe gasket surfaces down with brake clean immediately before installing gaskets....
Alright great! I wouldn’t think such a thing would cost all that much so I’ll definitely pick some up!what daytrepper said. just run it over until the crap disappears.
they'll condition the metal to seal too by removing oxidation.
the discs are meant for cleaning mating surfaces.
heads, intake surfaces, water pump flat surfaces.
not needed in the grooved side of o-ring type seals.
but the flat surfaces they mate to could do with a quick clean to remove oxidation too.
made to use on all metals.
Something like this right? 3 in. Medium Grade Fiber Surface Conditioning Discs, 5 Pack3m medium surface conditioning discs; on a drill; make sure and cover all oil passages and surfaces you are not cleaning and use a vacuum cleaner all over afterwards;
Once all thats done wipe gasket surfaces down with brake clean immediately before installing gaskets....
Yes, but NOT the Harbor Freight ones.Something like this right? 3 in. Medium Grade Fiber Surface Conditioning Discs, 5 Pack
Maybe it might help too if I set up the shop vac to suck up any pieces that come off to prevent them from going everywhere. I’d of course still go around with a shop vac after all the prisons and the mating surfaces are cleaned up.Yes, but NOT the Harbor Freight ones.
Get the 3M ones. The cheaper ones come apart and will throw little specs of themselves all over your open engine. You'll have that no matter what, but less is better; and thats why you vacuum everything and wipe things down with brake cleaner when you're done with the surface discs.
That’s true. I’ll probably get an air chuck to blow out the grit.It will still flip grit all over. You still will have to clean everything very well when done.
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Agreed! I am very thorough with the shop vac and the use of assembly lube on the cylinder walls to catch any debris so I can easily wipe it clean with a rag without scratching the wall surface. The pistons are cleaning up really nicely, just need to let the gasket remover stuff sit for at least a half hour or more, wipe it off, and a lot of elbow grease to get off 99.9% of the built up carbon and burnt oil residue. I’ll probably go around with the shop vac when I’m done to get anything I may have felt behind.I'm not a machinist but I've always read and heard that you have to wash everything with soap and lots of water. Then dry it and oil it.
It's not worth rebuilding, and assembling with new parts, just to let a piece of grit tear out a bearing (that will then destroy the rest of the engine).
Do it right or do it twice.
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I'm not a machinist either, but what you've said goes right along with what I've always read about brake rotors that are new or have been turned (resurfaced): Always do final cleaning before installing with soap and water only. Even with new rotors that might have an oil film on them to prevent corrosion, you could first wash off with brake parts cleaner to get the oil off, BUT follow that up with soap and water. The explanation is that brake parts cleaner does not remove apprasives and machining particulates - they will stay trapped in the machining microfinish - not good.I'm not a machinist but I've always read and heard that you have to wash everything with soap and lots of water...
I 100% agree!I'm not a machinist either, but what you've said goes right along with what I've always read about brake rotors that are new or have been turned (resurfaced): Always do final cleaning before installing with soap and water only. Even with new rotors that might have an oil film on them to prevent corrosion, you could first wash off with brake parts cleaner to get the oil off, BUT follow that up with soap and water. The explanation is that brake parts cleaner does not remove apprasives and machining particulates - they will stay trapped in the machining microfinish - not good.
Ever since becoming aware of that, I have always cleaned any new rotors with brake parts cleaner to remove the oil film, let dry (happens quickly), then soap and water. I would think just soap and water should do it all, but why dilute its effectiveness by mixing oil into the mix? Then, except for brake rotors, add back oil if that would be beneficial.
Mainly just wanted to say that your comment about soap and water makes sense.
