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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I think I know the actual reason, but...wanted to give this a try first. With all of the work we have had done with my wifes car in the last 3 months, now yet another issue has arised. The last week or so when we turn the A/C on it made a hissing sound. Sort of like a snake in the vents. My wife told me that now her A/C blows hot air. I think there was a leak and we have no freon in the system. We called our mech and he thinks it is an electrical issue. Sooo, I looked in the how-to section for getting climate control codes to figure out if there is in fact an issue other than needing freon. I tried to do the steps in this How-To but it does not make sence for those of us with out auto ATC. I have the standard old school 3 knob set up. I turned the blower on, put the temp in the middle of hot/cold, but what do I have to do with the press floor, defrost/floor and front defrost? You cannot press that as it is a knob. The only buttons you can press is the snowflake and the rear defrost button. Is there another set of instructions to accomplish this? I would like to think that freon is the culprit, but the luck we have had with this car...it is hard telling. Please help me out. Thanks
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Do you have the 2002 FSM downloaded? If so..pages 24-3 and 24-4 describe how to put the MTC in diagnostics. The EBL button they refer to in the procedure is the A/C (Snowflake) button. If you don't have the manual here's the procedure:

1) The engine must be running with vehicle not moving.
2) The Fan Speed set to any speed except OFF.
3) The Temperature Knob in full Cold position(full counterclockwise position).
4) The Mode Knob must be placed in Defrost position(full clockwise position).
5) The A/C button can be ON or OFF.
6) Press and hold the EBL button until the Mechanical Instrument Cluster Odometer display indicates an "AC000". The Body Control Module (BCM) will chime once and the MTC A/C button LED will begin blinking.
7) Release the EBL button and wait until the MTC A/C button LED stops blinking.This means that the error check and climate control unit door calibration is complete.

The odometer display will return to normal operation if no trouble codes are found. If a problem is found, then the odometer will display the letters "AC" followed by the trouble code number. The odometer display can only show one diagnostic trouble code at a time. To scroll through any additional diagnostic trouble codes, press the A/C button on the MTC. Continue pushing the A/C button until the odometer display returns to normal.
It is important that no other knob is turned or any other button is pressed until all the codes are read.
Remember the EBL button referred to above is the A/C (Snowflake) button on the MTC. Let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey thanks for that Ronbo. I just got done doing it and the odometer went back to normal with zero codes. I am thinking that the freon went quick. Which in turn means that the guy who did the job (under warrenty of course) either A) didn't fill it all the way or B) tighten something to where it would have pissed out the way it did. Worst case being C) a cracked line or something...I dunno. Either way it is not something physical/mechanical on the system according to the read outs. ?????? Another thought just popped into my head. Is this a check out that should maybe be accomplished after you get it serviced/filled? Because after it went through the calibration check it seemed to have been cold. I dunno. Again thanks again!!!
 

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Woober Goobers!
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I'm not sure if there's any memory in either the ATC or MTC so that when you disconnect the battery you don't lose the mode door calibrations. It doesn't hurt to do it whenever you feel like it as there are no tools required. I'd do it after any A/C service anyway. For example you'd have better cooling and the mode doors might need re-calibration for the added cooling so the cabin temperature wouldn't be colder than the MTC thought it was due to old calibration values.
Even on an ATC system..I think the check/calibration is useful. When I first got my R/T after a few months, A/C would be great on the highway but when I got into town it would get erratic as far as cooling. I did the calibration and it cleared it all up. When the check is in progress the vents will switch from floor to dash to defrost and the fan will change speeds.
If you've got a warranty on the previous work, by all means take advantadge of it and have them check the freon level out. All the cases you mention above are possible and maybe even more for things that could've gone wrong. Glad I could help a little.
 

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Easy way to see if the system has lost all the 134, press the A/C button....see if the compressor comes on. If it doesn't, then I would suspect that it's all out, and now the compressor won't turn on.

If the work is under warranty then take it back, have them check the level in the system with a dye in it to see where it's leaking.
 
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