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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a bit of a clunk when I put it in reverse. Is this normal or do I have a bad U joint or something? How should I test this further?

Hard to tell in youtube - but if interested...


Thanks
 

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Others may have ideas, but my first thought is a bad rear (transmission) mount.

Our cars don't have U joints per-se, but perhaps a bad CV joint (in the drive axles), or a loose stub nut on the outboard end of a drive axle. But, again, I'm thinking transmission mount.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Others may have ideas, but my first thought is a bad rear (transmission) mount.

Our cars don't have U joints per-se, but perhaps a bad CV joint (in the drive axles), or a loose stub nut on the outboard end of a drive axle. But, again, I'm thinking transmission mount.
Thanks Peva!

I had to have the rack replaced a second time not many miles ago - is there anything they may have loosened to get that in?
 

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Other things to check are loose connections/worn bushings of the tension (strut) rods at front (engine cradle) and back (control arm) ends. Also check control arm ball joints, connections in the steering knuckle, and bushing/bolt connecting it to engine cradle - make sure that bolt is torqued to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Other things to check are loose connections/worn bushings of the tension (strut) rods at front (engine cradle) and back (control arm) ends. Also check control arm ball joints, connections in the steering knuckle, and bushing/bolt connecting it to engine cradle - make sure that bolt is torqued to spec.
I will get it up on the lift and have them go over it. Thanks again.
 

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Thanks Peva!

I had to have the rack replaced a second time not many miles ago - is there anything they may have loosened to get that in?
I never had to replace a rack, and it's been a long time since I read thru the FSM procedure on R&R'ing the rack. Just check everything, like the tie rods.

You might be able to verify if a bad transmission mount by having someone watch the engine for excess motion with the hood up while putting it into reverse or jabbing the gas pedal with it in reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I never had to replace a rack, and it's been a long time since I read thru the FSM procedure on R&R'ing the rack. Just check everything, like the tie rods.

You might be able to verify if a bad transmission mount by having someone watch the engine for excess motion with the hood up while putting it into reverse or jabbing the gas pedal with it in reverse.
I will try that tomorrow - good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So today I took it to my mechanic friend's shop and they put it on the lift. He took a crow bar to check the transmission mount and he checked the engine as a whole. He pulled hard on both wheels - said all is very tight and looks great. My transmission fluid looks good too.

He said some cars just have these type of quirks.

It still sometimes feels like I run over a hump when I first put it into reverse. It has 130,000 miles. I keep it well maintained.

Should I keep going and see if anything changes - or should I get a second opinion. He is a good mechanic and a friend.

Not sure if this really covered everything you told me to check - like checking the connection at the steering knuckle. I assume he would have seen play in that if it was there.

They are an interesting crew at this shop.

Thanks
 

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One technique for things like this is to have someone lying on the ground looking, listening, and feeling while another person sits in the driver's seat shifting in and out of reverse with the engine running. With you feeling it in the driver's seat, the person on the ground should be able to see, hear, or feel something going on in the running gear, steering, and suspension. See what's moving around and clunking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could this involve the steering rack? I had it changed twice now?
 

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Maybe if it's mounts weren't attached properly or somethings loose on the tie rods.

Watch, feel, and listen to the rack while someone slams it into reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Maybe if it's mounts weren't attached properly or somethings loose on the tie rods.

Watch, feel, and listen to the rack while someone slams it into reverse.
I was thinking of getting an alignment at a different place - with better alignment equipment. Do you think by doing this - it will likely uncover any issues with the rack? Obviously it will check the tie rod ends...
 

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I have no idea - depends on what's wrong and how attentive they are in looking for problems, and if they only pay attention to items they touch. Maybe you plan on telling them the problem you're having and asking them to poke around a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Peva

Thanks for all the help! Ok, I got the smoking gun. Video proof of what is going on. It seems like you were correct - lots of movement of the whole engine when I go in reverse. What do you think? Were you right about the transmission mount? Here is the video - can fast forward to around 35 seconds... It repeats a bunch. Cheers

 

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Transmission mount, transmission mount, transmission mount... And with that much motion, you've been stressing the engine mounts also. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Great - Thanks for the confirmation.

On the video I was just flooring it to find any movement. So any idea how big a job this will be to replace and what brand of transmission mount would you get?
Screenshot_20210427-193234~2.png
 

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I would like to see a video of the car in gear with engine loaded and the brakes applied.

The engine mounts are not much fun. The transmission mount is easier, but also a pain. If I remember correctly a ratcheting wrench would have been very useful.
 
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Just read your thread . Here is my experience with the clunk when I put it in reverse ..
I've been having the same problem for 9 years , it reverse clunk is worst when parked at a higher angle street . I changed the two engine mounts and the transmission mount (real pain) and I still get the clunk when I put it in reverse , I just learned how to live with it or just ignore it(lol) .
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just read your thread . Here is my experience with the clunk when I put it in reverse ..
I've been having the same problem for 9 years , it reverse clunk is worst when parked at a higher angle street . I changed the two engine mounts and the transmission mount (real pain) and I still get the clunk when I put it in reverse , I just learned how to live with it or just ignore it(lol) .
Does your engine move like mine does? Please see the video - I couldn't tell until I put my action cam in the engine bay.

 
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