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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996 Dodge Intrepid ES 3.5 127,000 miles. I got up for work yesterday morning and the car wouldn't start. checked for codes by using the key on/off method and it showed code 11. replaced the crank position sensor. and it started right up. drove it for about 5 miles and it died again. code 11 came back. so I got a new cam position sensor in it and it still doesn't run right. It will start most of the time. It runs for a few seconds and dies. start it back up runs for a few more seconds and dies. the only way to keep it running is if I keep the rpms at around 1500. after a few seconds of that, it tries to die. like fuel or spark disappears for about a second. I tested the coil pack, backprobed the new cam/crank sensor and they check out fine, all according to the haynes manual. Thought maybe the timing jumped a tooth so I checked the timing, both cams and crank line up. Any ideas what could be causing this.
 

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Check the wiring for both cam and crank sensors. A good place to start looking is about 3 inches above the crank sensor where the 3 wire harness goes over a re-enforcement rib on the differential. Disconnect the crank sensor and push the outer sheath of the harness up so you can see the 3 individual wires ,this is where you might have a broken wire. The 22LB/DB* wire should have continuity to pin #24 of PCM connector. The 20 OR wire goes to pin #7 of PCM. The 20 BK/LB* goes to pin #4 of PCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok I will check that out in the morning... I went out there today and it ran fine took it around the block and as soon as it was warmed up it started again so when its cold it runs like it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok I think I know what the problem is. I checked for continuity on the 3 wires. first time it worked on #7 and #4 but not on #24. Checked it again and it worked on all 3, so I just thought I had a bad connection when I tried it on LB/DB. Started it up, let it warm up and wiggled each wire, everytime I wiggled the blue wire it would stall. what would be the best way to replace the blue wire. Could I just snip the wire a few inches from the crank position sensor and PCM and solder a new wire to the two. also thought about going to the yard and taking the wire out of a harness, and replace the wire from pin to pin. But how long would that work. Or is there a different way to fix it.
 

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Did you locate exactly where the LB/DB* wire is broken???Depending on where the break is, you could possibly cut the wire at the break and splice and solder a short section of wire in. If you can do it that way, be sure to slide some heat shrinkable tubing onto the wire first so you can seal it up after soldering.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No I didn't find where it was broken at, just wiggled it and every time that wire was wiggled it would die on me
 

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Pedplar said:
No I didn't find where it was broken at, just wiggled it and every time that wire was wiggled it would die on me
Are ya wiggling it just above the crank sensor connector???
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was wiggling it about 5 inches above it.

I took the crank sensor back to autozone to exchange it for a different one. They tested the one I bought a week before and said it was fine. Wouldn't give me a new one. So I finally took it to the shop. He put 2 hours worth labor and another new crank sensor in and it runs great. All because autozone wouldn't exchange the other crank sensor out.
 
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