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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Completely New Interior Speaker Install (now w/56k warning!)

Relevant info:
I have an 01 Intrepid with the ES package. This is my first install... except for the HU.. I've installed one of those before. I also installed some replacement 69s on an 86 olds cutlass, but that was so ridiculously easy I refuse to list it as previous car audio experience

Here's what I want to install:
- Kenwood eXcelon x790 HU ( http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6497.html )
- Infinity 60.7cs 6.5 component system (with crossover) ( http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4295.html )
- Infinity 693.7i 6x9 3-way speakers ( http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4219.html )
- MA Audio M489I 4-channel amp (specs: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2676.html )

Here's what I have to install it with:
- Connector wires From Intrepid wiring to common wiring for HU
- mounting bracket for x790 to Intrepid
- 0 gauge Stinger Custom Pro SWK0 ( http://www.sounddomain.com/item/STISWK0 )
- extra speaker wire
- Stinger Helix series interconnects: http://www.stingerelectronics.com/web/prods/interconnects.asp



FIRST DAY DOWN
12 straight hours working.. starting from 4:30 in the afternoon to 4:30 in the morning... I'm freaking beat. I had a friend helping for most of it, but he's been gone for an hour and a half, and I sent him down here to search some stuff and rest for about an hour and a half previously. I have pictures.. but I need some freaking rest. My hands and arms are cut up... and yeah.. I ache all over lol.

What's done:
- HU install (done months ago)
- 0 gauge run, (CLEAN) attached to distro block in back, connected to amp.
- Ground from amp to chassis hooked up
- stock amp removed
- front speaker wires from stock amp spliced to speaker wire and run to back
- RCA and amp power control wires run to back (CLEAN)
- RCA cable fixed when I pulled too hard and it snapped insides of sheathing (let's hope it's fixed at least)
- 6x9s installed (including crossovers)
- speaker wire attached to 6x9s
- all speaker wires and RCAs attached to amp
- 1 front door removed.... that's about when my arms gave out and I couldn't pick anything up.

To do:
- Install 6 1/2s
- install tweeters
- hook everything to crossover
- hook crossover to existing wiring

- officially attach the 0 gauge to pos terminal on battery

- clean up trunk wires.
- replace floor board panels (need to pick up some new plastic gromets first
- Post pictures

DAY TWO DOWN
I was SIIIIICK today for most of the day. Woke up and was feeling about 20% most of the day. Around 8 though, w/lots of medication, rest, and recouperation, I had almost enough energy to start working again. Had another friend help me w/the crimping, because my hands were like ***** please" when I tried to crimp... lol. I got it to the point where I actually fired the system up though... I'll post the results below

What's Done:
- both front doors installed (tweeters in sails, 6.5s in the door, crossover hooked up)
- COMPLETELY re-did engine 0 gauge wiring. Wasn't quite long enough, and the wire kept slipping out.

To do:
- fix crossover mounting
- fix channels
- fix front passenger 6.5

- clean up trunk wires.
- replace floor board panels (need to pick up some new plastic gromets first
- Post pictures

So.. I turned it on and.... it worked!!! kinda!!! If you remember about my RCA, I was worried about it not working because it basically was ripped in half and I had to re-splice everything. All 4 channels worked, so I'm good to go. However, all of the speakers are messed up. The front goes to the back speakers, back to front.. and I think side to side is also messed up. GG MA audio not listing where each of the 4 channels should go to. They literally just show 4 speakers attached to the amp in their diagram. No F/B L/R at all. Not a big problem though.

The other thing is that my passenger 6.5 doesn't work. Could be a few things.. either the connection to the speaker is bad, or the connection to the crossover is bad. Better damn well not be a bad speaker tho or I shall be unhappy. I do, however, know that that channel is getting a signal, because the tweeter DOES work.

Finally, I heard a lot of rattling in my driver side door, and I'm pretty sure that was the crossover, because I ghetto rigged it to the door like a dumbass.

Also... I didn't exactly get a good feel for the system.. clearly because of the problems listed above.. but I'm not exactly sure that I'm pleased w/the sound that came out.... I guess I'll just have to hook everything up CORRECTLY and see if it works.

Begining the process:


Kickpanel for stock amp (this is mostly for the dodge intrepid ppl who need to know where this is):



0 Gauge run from battery to back:




Re-wire from the stock plug to speaker wire for the front stage:


My wiring idea to be able to thread the wires easier under the carpet:


Replacing the 6x9s:

 

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So why did you remove the stock amp when all you gotta do is unplug it? Why are you taking your doors off the hinges, and why are you running 0 gauge to an amp that needs nothing more than 4 gauge at best. I don't mean to sound like a dick, but it sounds like you're making way more work for yourself than you need to to just install 4 speakers and an amp...
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
LOUD98ES said:
So why did you remove the stock amp when all you gotta do is unplug it? Why are you taking your doors off the hinges, and why are you running 0 gauge to an amp that needs nothing more than 4 gauge at best. I don't mean to sound like a dick, but it sounds like you're making way more work for yourself than you need to to just install 4 speakers and an amp...
Removed the stock amp so I could just splice together and run wire for the front speakers. The wiring was already run to them from where the amp was connected, so I just extended it out from there, as opposed to runing completely new wire for the front speakers.

I should have posted my entire first thread... I'm eventually going to stick a huge sub in the back (prolly an 06 RE XXX) and I'll need a TON of power. Also the reason for the distro block. Since I already ran 0 gauge, i'll have my power feed back there for when I upgrade to the sub, and I won't have to rip everything up again.

Also, by "taking the front door off" I didn't mean off it's hinges, I mean the whole... side.. panel.. thingy.. part of it.. to access the speakers. But instead of stumbling through that like I just did, I said "took the front door off"


EDIT: HAD TO SPREAD PIX OVER 2 POSTS

really?? which one?? I clicked on them all from this post and they worked fine for me..

EDIT: HAD TO INCLUDE THE OTHER PIX HERE:

Took a picture of how messy the trunk is.. just for fun:


DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD
DO NOT PULL ON RCAs TOO HARD


If you do.. they will break, and you'll have to open it up and do some really ugly surgery:
 

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better to install now and not need/use later, than to NOT install and wish you did. anyway, how hard was it actually to remove rear seat etc. to install rear 6x9's? i am planning this, but am trying to gauge how much time i will actually need. thanks.

--rudy--
 

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Removing the rear 6x9's is actually pretty easy.... Plan on a hour or so to cover the learning process... now that I've done it it would take under 20 min to do again. Follow Db's how-to and make shure you have the tools he mentions.... I hate running around our shop trying to find a metric socket when the damn car is in pieces!
 

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for replacing the front speakers, you don't need to remove the panel, the metal grills pop right off. Should take about 5 minutes a door or less if you're half-way decent with a pair of crimpers. Also, removing the amp was basically a waste of time, all you gotta do is unplug it, pull the harness back by cutting the tape around it, and splicing from the harness there. Taking the amp out really serves no purpose. I was kinda guessing that you were gonna add a sub down the road, or at least hoping so, since 0 gauge is about twice the price of 4. Good choice in subs though, very loud. Make sure you get a good amp to push them, cause MA Audio ain't gonna hack it when it comes to the sub. MA Audio is middle of the road at best, and more than likely is not pushing what it lists.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ROFL... no shti the amp isn't going to handle it when it comes to the sub. THe new 06 XXXs are rated at 2000 RMS +. The amp I put in there is a 600 max AB 4 channel... it's for my 4 channels to the interior. Again, hence the distributer cap.

And if you have a full component set, you DO need to take the door off, because you run the wiring to a crossover, which feeds the main 6.5 and the tweeter... which is what I said I have. You need to put that crossover in the door somewhere. As for taking out the amp.. that literally took all of 5 minutes.. which was nothing considering the 17+ hours I've already spent on the project. I have, however, seen a few people on these boards who want to replace theirs.. so if I can get a few bucks for taking an extra 5 minutes and removing it.. why not?

I got the MA audio amp because it pushes 150w @4ohms (or 2 ohms) over 4 channels.. which is more than great for what I need it for.

As for gauging time. Yeah.. the rear 6x9s have a couple tricks to them. Don't bother thinking you can get to them from the top. You can't. You really do need to remove the seat. Here's a tip:

MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A DAMN TIRE IRON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Taking the bottom part of the seat off is rediculously easy. Just pull up and off. Your next obstacle is 3 bolts that attach the top part to the car. Those bolts are on there TIIIIIIIIIIIIIIGGHHHT. That's what the tire iron is for... I think it's 18mm? After that, you simply lift up and off the back seat (it's on 3 hooks) and then work on taking the top off. You may or may not have to take the top side panels off the car. I did, but I'm not sure if I actually had to or not. Then you pop the plastic plugs keeping that top back layer on, and lift that off as well. I didn't bother taking out the middle seat belt assembly.. I just working w/the inconvenience of having the top and the seat falling on my back... which wasn't really a big problem for me. I think I have a picture of it... I'll look for it later.

After you get all of that taken off, replacing the 6x9s couldn't be easier. I would, however, advise you to tighten a bit on each screw all the way around, instead of tightening them 1 by 1. ALSO: if the 6x9s come w/a lip (not the grille, but the lip that raises the edge by about half an inch) you should put that on. This will give your speaker some space from the back part of your car, so that it's not laying DIRECTLY on your components (if it's a 2/3way) or the speaker itself. I highly recommend you do this.

If you have any questions, let me know

EDIT: I updated the original post to include day two.
 

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Phrozt said:
And if you have a full component set, you DO need to take the door off, because you run the wiring to a crossover, which feeds the main 6.5 and the tweeter... which is what I said I have. You need to put that crossover in the door somewhere. .
No you don't... Check my sig thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
it doesn't say anything about how or where you mounted your crossovers..
 

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I still can't see why this has taken 17 hours so far... a sloppy install could have been done in 2 hours. A clean install could have ripped all the seats, carpet, door panels, and half the dash out, ran the wires, and reinstalled in about 5 hours.
 

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I agree... especially since you are working with electricity and could start a fire or cause electrical problems if you wire something incorrectly. I seperated out my install over a few days and worked maybe 2-3 hours a day. I NEVER worked on it in the dark or when I was tired. I did a HU, front 3-ways, rear 4-ways, an amp, a sub, all wiring and even built the damn sub box... all in less than 10 hours total I would guess. Sorry if I sound like i'm bragging about how fast i did it, but I mean this is one of those things you want to plan the heck out of ahead of time, and not do anything you don't have to do, because putting all those extra pieces back together is gonna cost you time and your patience. Just a tip from a fellow audio nut.

Josiah
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I've never done this before... I don't know why it's taking me so long... but it is.


You do realize what all I did.. right? Running 0 gauge, running all the other wire.. replacing all the speakers...

Have you even TOUCHED 0 gauge?? It's not the easiest thing to work with. It's not something you just crimp and everything works out all nice and easy.

I really don't know why it's taking me so long... I guess I just suck at car audio. What can I say.
 

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I don't mean to insult you or anything man... I was just saying that it sounded like a hell of a project.

Maybe I've just ripped my car apart and swapped the audio out so many times that I can do it with my eyes closed to save some time.
 

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I know you're not gonna use the same amp for the RE's, I was makinng sure you weren't gonna use the same brand. Anything with MA Audio on it is not worthy of powering something like an RE. Also, you can have crossovers for components without removing the door panel. I did it in my 98 ES no problem. I put them on my amp rack that I built behind my back seat.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Really??? so... did you run TWO wires to each door? Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly. The crossover takes in the feed from the front door channel (either right or left) and then feeds to the tweeter and the 6.5. So.. if you put your crossover on your amp rack (which looks very nice), then you'd have to run wires up for your tweeter and for your 6.5.. again, unless I'm missunderstanding something.

And Gaze.. my other door was done in about 20min/half an hour... by that time I got things down.

But seriously.. w/0 gauge there were tons of problems. That and the connecting terminal would not fit over the bolt for the positive battery terminal, so I ended up using a wood drill to bore the hole out so it would fit.... that was less than fun.

I think if I had to do it again, I could do it faster.. but learning my whole car and my whole audio setup at the same time took a lot of time.

And I guess I did eat dinner and take a few trips to the shop to pick up some more stuff.. so you could probably take about 3 hours away from saturday that I wasn't DIRECTLY working on it..
 

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Yes, I ran two separate lines. Not really much more trouble, I bought a huge roll of 16 gau. speaker wire, and running the extra lines wasn't really a big deal either.
 

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Phrozt said:
it doesn't say anything about how or where you mounted your crossovers..

Have a look where i have everything laid out on the pull out shelf in the trunk ;)
 
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