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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had to make a suburban/urban 12 mile trip. When I got to my destination, the water temperature was 222. On the way back, there was an accident, so it took me about an hour. 3/4's of the way back the engine temperature made it up to 234. At that time, I turned off the A/C and it cooled back down to 218. Turned the A/C back on and it stayed about 220 the rest of the way. Probably because the car was moving more.

It's about 90 degrees out. The OTIS showed 100. When I got back home, I checked and both fans were on. The A/C compressor was running. I had the ATC set at 72. The car stayed pretty cool. I doubt it came near 72 inside. The sun was out, so there was a lot of heat gain. I would say the A/C was adequate, but not like a refrigerator. The compressor had been replaced a couple of years ago.

I thought it had been running a little hot since the radiator hoses were replaced a month ago. Today is the first time I drove it far. The weather has been getting hotter, so I don't know if it's just a coincidence. I don't think there is air in the cooling system.

Any ideas as to what might be wrong?
Thanks
 

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Thermostat needs replacing? Radiator fins clogged with "stuff"? Radiator tubes clogged (coolant maintenance history, proper coolant)? Low in coolant/air pocket (as you suggested)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Condenser, radiator and transmission cooler look clean. The radiator had been replaced, before I bought the car in 2007. I don't think it's clogged. I've been changing the anti-freeze, when needed. There's no rust in the overflow tank.

I did notice the level of anti-freeze in the overflow tank was about a half inch, not at the cold line on the tank. I couldn't get the lower radiator hose off, even with the tool I bought, so I had a shop replace it. I think they would put the proper amount of anti-freeze back in it and bleed it. I gave them a gallon of anti-freeze. I did notice, before I dropped it off, the anti-freeze in the overflow tank was about at half inch. Same as it is now.

Maybe it is the thermostat. I almost stopped to buy one on the way home. The temperature didn't drop once I got moving. I figured it should go down while the car was moving, but it stayed the same. I'll buy a thermostat tomorrow and see if it solves the problem.
 

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I suggest getting the t-stat from a Chrysler dealer. Even the Gates ones in aftermarket can be inaccurate - as I found out when I put one in. My 3.2 was real slow in warming up and the gage stayed lower than normal. Since that started right after I installed it, I replaced it again, but went with one from the dealer. I figure it was defective - there's going to be some of that with product that any company makes, OR it was near the outside edge of the wider tolerance band that aftermarket is allowed to sell than the tighter-tolerance parts that go to the dealers. Anyway, when I replaced it with the one from the dealer, the warm up and steady state temperature went back to acting normal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Looks like the car is running OK after I changed out the thermostat with an OEM one. I hadn't really driven it anywhere until today. Drove about 10 miles, temperature stayed around 200 - 204 degrees. :)
 

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Glad to hear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Drove about 16 miles today. The first leg of the journey was about 8 miles. No problems. On the way back I drove about 5 miles and stopped at the grocery store. Car sat for about a half hour. From the grocery store to home, the OTIS ambient air temperature showed 100 degrees. The air temperature outside was probably around 90. In the 13 years I've owned the car, this is the second time it's ever reached 100. The other time was the trip I made at the beginning of this thread.

Also on the way home from the grocery store, the A/C was kind of anemic. That was with recirculation on. The first two legs of the trip it worked well. On the trip at the beginning of this thread, the A/C was also kind of anemic when the OTIS temperature was 100.

I'm not sure what's going on, but I doubt the air temperature at the bumper, while moving at 45 mph, would be 100 degrees. I have a new temperature sensor I had bought a long time ago. I got that at Advanced Auto (BWD brand). I can replace the old one and see what happens. Is the Advanced Auto one OK or should I get a Chrysler brand sensor? I just want the A/C to be consistent.

Ran ATC diagnostic mode and there were no codes.

As of yesterday my OTIS display goes off. I have to bang on it and it might come back. Without that, I'm not sure how I would know what the ambient air temp sensor is reporting.

What type of fastener is this? Is it a rivet? How do I remove it? I could probably grind it off with Dremel. Put a machine screw and washer back in it's place.

41725
 

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Can you give us a little wider shot on that fastener? It looks like a push pin from that distance but I'm pretty sure it's not.
 

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You can get the fastener at Fastenal - see below. You might have a store near you, or order on line. A box of 25 costs about what a Chrysler dealer will sell you 5 or 6 for.

You would need a pop river gun that will work on the larger diameter pop rivet shanks. To remove the old rivet, you use a no. 1 phillips screwdriver or smaller to poke into the hole to stretch the hidden part of the rivet back out that would allow you to pull the rivet out with no resistance:

41754



Here's another type of fastener used on the front fascias of our cars, also available at Fastenal for a fraction of what the Chrysler dealer sells them for. You could find essentially the same thing at NAPA - just visually natch them up:


41755
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thank you peva. I didn't know you can remove pop rivets that way. Makes sense.

I've never used a pop rivet gun. And really don't know much about them. All the guns I see online for 1/4" rivets look too big to fit between the condenser and bumper. The guns that are shaped 90 degrees are for smaller sized rivets. Do you know of one that would work in that space?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I measured the distance between the rivet and condenser as a little less than 3 inches. See the picture in post #12. There's not even much room to insert a screw driver in the rivet hole.

I'm just wondering if I got the old one off, I could get a machine screw with a bolt head to attach the replacement? I don't want to take the bumper off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I had my local shop take care of replacing it. They ground down the rivet, but in the picture, where they ground it flush to the bumper, it looks solid. They said they would try to use a screw to reattach the sensor. I would have figured the shank of the rivet would have fallen into the bumper. Maybe, they used a screw and it broke off?

They relocated the sensor about 8 inches closer to the center of the bumper. The rivet was directly under the 0 stamped on the bumper. They used a push pin to attach the new sensor. It works.
41775
41776
 

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(y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Unfortunately, the Concorde exhibited the same behavior that I posted in post one today. It was a hot, low 90s and sunny day. After I got home, I opened the hood to make sure both fans were running, which they were. I put my hand on the AC condenser and it was very hot. I don't know if it should be that hot, but I could see why the water temperature was high (224) with the heated air from the condenser passing through the radiator. Somehow, I don't think the evaporator was equally as cold, although the AC was adequate, not great. It seemed pretty cold when starting the trip, but only adequate towards the end. Maybe the AC is the problem?
 

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When was the last time the water pump was changed? If ever to your knowledge?

Possible impeller issue slipping on the shaft causing a low flow condition?
 
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