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Discussion Starter #1
Lookie what my brother (Chrysler Tech) gave me. Hopefully we can all benefit from it.

Goodies

[ December 28, 2001: Message edited by: Intrepidatious ]
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I was just browsing through the LH Body Electrical Book and found out how to enable/disable the auto-lock feature when you hit 15 mph (or throttle angle is greater then 10 degrees)

Here's the steps:

  • Close All Vehicle Doors
  • Cycle the ignition between OFF and RUN four times, ending in OFF
  • Press the DRIVER'S Power Door Lock Switch to lock the doors

When the above procedure is performed, the BCM toggles the current rolling door lock state. Once programming is completed, the BCM signals a single chime.

The book friggin rules!! It has so much info, it hurts! :)

[ December 28, 2001: Message edited by: Intrepidatious ]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
As a note, here's some of the procedures and other things that are listed in the book, if anyone wants to know the steps, just post. I would post the instructions for all, but that's too much typing!

  • RKE Horn Chirp
  • RKE Trunk Release (number of times button must be depressed on Key FOB)
  • RKE FOB Programming (without any extra tools)
  • Locations of all speakers in every stereo configuration
  • How to program your OTIS
  • Junction Block Layout
  • Ground Stud Locations (all 16 of them!)
  • PCI Bus Communications (shows what parts talk to what)
  • A gazillion Diagnostic tests to do on your car
  • Electrical Schematics for just about everything
  • A really neat thing to do if you want to get rid of your antenna.
  • A buttload more stuff, but I'm sick of typing :)

[ December 28, 2001: Message edited by: Intrepidatious ]
 

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That's pretty awesome, I will have to give it a try. That auto-lock has always kind of annoyed me.
 

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I like the auto-lock feature. I drive in the city and car-jacking, although uncommon, is a reality. A locked door won't stop a bullet, but nobody's strong-arming MY ride. :p
 

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What kind of things can be programmed into the OTIS? Does it simply describe the procedure to train the garage door buttons or does it show how to display different data on the LEDs?

You know...if that book has anything in it that describes how to communicate with the car via a PC, I'd be very interested in that information. As some of you have read, I'm putting a PC in the car soon (will be a non-standard looking PC, but will be a PC none-the-less) and would love to figure out how to control the A/C and other environmental controls via the PC. I can program whatever for it, but I need to know how to interface with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The OTIS has a couple of different configurations (including the Homelink)

Here's a way to self test the OTIS:

  • With the ignition in the OFF position, simultaneously press the C/T and STEP buttons and hold them
  • Turn the ignition switch ON, then release the C/T and STEP buttons
  • OTIS lights all segments on the VFD for 2-4 seconds. Check for segments that are not illuminated
  • If OTIS displays PASS, the module is OK
  • If OTIS displays FAIL, replace the module
  • If OTIS displays BUS, check for an open or a short in the PCI Bus communication wire
  • Press the C/T or the STEP button to exit self diagnostics

[ December 28, 2001: Message edited by: Intrepidatious ]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As for hooking your computer up to the vehicle's computer. I have some schematics regarding that, but even more useful, I have what every component receives and broadcasts. (For instance, the PCM broadcasts A/C pressure and receives Ambient Temperature, etc etc...)

I have a list over two pages long of what each component broadcasts and receives. At least you would know what to hook into depending on what you are trying to accomplish.

The PCI Bus works through modules in each component. It is capable of sending and receiving data simultaneously. Each message it sends out has 4 components: (just like a PC!):

1) Message Header: one to three bytes in length. It contains the message type, length, priority, target modules and sending module.
2) Data Bytes: The message being sent
3) Cyclic Redundancy Check (CRC) byte: This byte is used to detect errors during a message transmission.
4) In-Frame Response Byte(s): If a response is required from the target module(s) it can be sent during this frame. (This function is described in greater detail in the book)

So, being that I know you know computers quite well, it kinda works like TCP/IP..it makes sure the data gets to it's destination. Unlike UDP which just sends it out and doesn't really care if it gets there or not.

If you think you can make sense of the junk in this book, I'll see if I can get a hold of a scanner and get the info to you...I only have a digital camera. :)

[ December 28, 2001: Message edited by: Intrepidatious ]
 

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Originally posted by Intrepidatious:
If you think you can make sense of the junk in this book, I'll see if I can get a hold of a scanner and get the info to you...I only have a digital camera.
Unless you've already planned on scanning the entire book, you don't need to go out of your way to scan the pages for me. I've been meaning to get my hands on something like this for awhile now, and now that I know what book to get, I will probably just go out and pick one up. It looks like the handbook has oodles of valuable do-it-yourself information.

Thanks for the offer! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
No prob. Just so you know, my brother got this book when he was being trained for the LH cars. So I don't know if it's readily available.

But in case it is, it's called "LH Body Electrical" and is made by Chrysler Technical Training. It's the Technician's Workbook.

Good Luck, if you need anything in the meantime, just ask! :)

[ December 28, 2001: Message edited by: Intrepidatious ]
 

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stuff like door lock thing is in a manual, but there is lotts of info in that book, like you can snwser the question as to where all 9 speakers are in the premium system..
 

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Originally posted by Intrepidatious:
  • Ground Stud Locations (all 16 of them!)
  • A really neat thing to do if you want to get rid of your antenna.
Tell us pleeez!!!!! :eek: :eek: :eek:
 

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Maybe it would be a good thing to scan some of the most useful stuff & get Randy to post it. I know I would sure like to see some of it. I would be willing to pay for copy of it. Let me know how feasible it would be. Most technical training manuals are only available if you take the course so I'm betting you can't just buy one. Thanks for sharing the knowledge with us!!!
 

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*bump*
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Oops...sorry guys I didn't see the posts from December 30th on....good thing you bumped it MadTxn, or I would never have seen it.

I'll get the info together and make a post tonight...I'm on the way out.

I don't have a scanner, but I can send the whole book to Randy, if you promise to send it back after you are done! :D
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK, here's what I got:

Ground stud locations:

Ground Stud Locations

Nothing to specific, sorry, but it gives you the general area.


Now for the antenna thingee...I'm not sure if this will work, but I'll read you what the book says and maybe we can figure out a way to make it work:

From the book:

The Dodge Intrepid version of the LH Sedans features a fixed mast antenna on the rear of the vehicle. All other LH Sedans incorporate an antenna built into the rear of the window defogger. A rear window defogger/antenna module isolates the FR signal used by the radio from the electrical current used to defrost the rear window.

The rear window defogger relay output is fed through the module to the defogger grid lines in the rear window. The rear window defogger/antenna modeule is turned on and operated by a 12-volt signal from the radio. When the radio is ON, it sends a 12-volt output to the rear window defogger/antenna module. (See this Pic) This output is similar to a radio power antenna output that lifts the power antenna when the radio is turned ON. The module is case grounded. A coaxial cable from the module provides the AM and FM tuners their RF input.

The top three lines are unheated and are used to receive AM signals. The remainder of the grids are heated and are also used to receive FM signals.


So........., if we reroute the antenna and window defogger wiring through this module; in theory it should use our rear defroster as an antenna negating the use for the big ole ugly mast antenna. What do you think?

Here's diagram involving the module in the link above:


Antenna/Defogger Schematic See this Pic

It seems that it uses the actual grid that is used to heat the window to receive radio transmissions. With this module, it should work the same for us. The only thing is we have to seperate the AM and FM grids. Other then that, it doesn't look too hard. And if you think about it, we have a rear window that is 3 times the size of any other LH car. Better reception? AND we can loose the lame antenna!

:confused:
 

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....but what to fill the now ugly hole with where the antenna used to be? :(
 
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