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Discussion Starter #1
Guys,
I want to change my coolant. Is there a certain type of coolant to get? Is flushing it with water and draining okay? Do you need distilled water to mix with the antifreeze when filling?
Thanks
Bill
 

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I think that any good quality coolant will do but the real trick is to only use distilled water with it. That is if added water is called for.
 

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Don't use anything other than the orange mopar coolant!! If you can't or don't want to go to the dealer, Zerex G-05 can also be used at it is the same thing. Thats what I used as the dealer wasn't open on sunday when I did my flush. For me it is only available locally at NAPA, but autozone or others may have it near you.

This is the information I read before doing my flush:
peva said:
System capacity is 9.4 qts. That means 4.7 each of antifreeze and distilled water. Unfortunately that means buying two gallons of G05 - but it never hurts to have some around in case you need it. I keep a used up container with 50-50 mixed ready to go in case I have to burp out an air pocket or something.

The amount of distilled water you will need depends on how you plan to flush it out. Distilled water is cheap. So buy 6 gallons of the stuff and really knock yourself out in flushing the system. Even if you don't use all of it - so what?

HINT: *DO* *NOT* premix 50-50 for the initial fill after flush. After draining as much out after flushing, pour in 4.7 qts. of G05, then fill whatever it takes with distilled water. Even then, it may be difficult getting 4.7 qts. of antifreeze in depending on how well you were able to drain it - a bit of water will remain in pockets regardless of what you do. But by starting out with some unknown qty. of water remaining in the system and then putting just the right amount of coolant in (and topping if with water if more is needed to reach the fill line), you are guaranteed very close to 50-50 because the system holds 9.4 qts. total.
 

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Wow, i may have to do mine soon, But after I do my timing belt, water pump, oil pump, tensioners, etc....

So Mopar Anit freeze(Orange) is the best stuff huh?, Is there a specific part number, guys?
 

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I'm not sure of the part number. You should jsut be able to walk into any dodge, chrysler, or jeep dealer and ask them for the long life coolant. AFAIK, they only have one kind. It is easier and slightly cheaper if you just go to NAPA and pick up zerex g-05 though. It is the same stuff and from what I've heard, the mopar stuff is made by zerex but I'm not 100% sure of that.
 

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luisa said:
Wow, i may have to do mine soon, But after I do my timing belt, water pump, oil pump, tensioners, etc....
I just did that a couple of weeks ago. :)

So Mopar Anit freeze(Orange) is the best stuff huh?, Is there a specific part number, guys?
When I went to the dealership, all they asked me was what color I wanted. There is a green one also. You want the orange.
 

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Flushing Engine coolant

Hi Folks:
Is the orange mopar coolant good for my 98Trep2.7 ?? Dumb question but thought still ask - Where is/are the drain plugs in my Trep ??
In my old Tercel, there was one at the radiator level and another near the engine block - The engine block one was hard to reach so always did it thru the radiator plug. Would drain as much as possible - Fill it with distilled water, go for a short ride around the block, come back home, drain all, and repeat the process 2 more times - then would fill in the proper quantity of coolant and then add water.
Could I be following the process in my Trep - Never done it on my Trep before.
 

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Yeah, the orange coolant is for your trep too. The draincock is at the bottom of the radiator and your process for flushing osunds ok to me.
 

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Be aware, that the cooling system and the material of the impeller in water pump was actually designed around the coolant. As already pointed out , do not use anything but Mopar Long Life or Zerex G-05 . Chemically they are both the same but the Mopar stuff is orange and the Zerex stuff is yellow. Price wise, they're within a dollar or 2 of each other. I normally look for bargains but I just went to the Chrysler parts counter for this stuff.

Definitely use distilled or deionized water for the mixture, not tap water.

Draining through the rad only, you can only get about 4 quarts out, leaving 5 quarts in the system. To thoroughly change out ALL the old material and replace with new, you'll have to do about 5 fills and drains. I just finished doing this on mine. I used distilled water for the refills and drains, running the motor until up to temp in between drains. It takes a long time, but it ensures that all the old coolant really is gone. The after the final drain, refill with straight Coolant. When it mixes with the distilled water remaining in the block, you'll end up with close to a 50% mixture. To get up to a full 50/50 mixture, you'll have to drain a couple more quarts and add another couple quarts of straight coolant. But you do this only after the engine has been driven around to ensure that the previous charge of coolant is fully mixed with the distilled water in the block.

For properly refilling the system, you really need to use a special funnel. See the Cooling System section in the FSM. I bought a funnel similar to the one shown in the FSM from NAPA.

If you're gonna do it, do it right.
 

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va3ux said:
Be aware, that the cooling system and the material of the impeller in water pump was actually designed around the coolant. As already pointed out , do not use anything but Mopar Long Life or Zerex G-05 . Chemically they are both the same but the Mopar stuff is orange and the Zerex stuff is yellow. Price wise, they're within a dollar or 2 of each other. I normally look for bargains but I just went to the Chrysler parts counter for this stuff.

Definitely use distilled or deionized water for the mixture, not tap water.

Draining through the rad only, you can only get about 4 quarts out, leaving 5 quarts in the system. To thoroughly change out ALL the old material and replace with new, you'll have to do about 5 fills and drains. I just finished doing this on mine. I used distilled water for the refills and drains, running the motor until up to temp in between drains. It takes a long time, but it ensures that all the old coolant really is gone. The after the final drain, refill with straight Coolant. When it mixes with the distilled water remaining in the block, you'll end up with close to a 50% mixture. To get up to a full 50/50 mixture, you'll have to drain a couple more quarts and add another couple quarts of straight coolant. But you do this only after the engine has been driven around to ensure that the previous charge of coolant is fully mixed with the distilled water in the block.

For properly refilling the system, you really need to use a special funnel. See the Cooling System section in the FSM. I bought a funnel similar to the one shown in the FSM from NAPA.

If you're gonna do it, do it right.

Any pics of the funnekl that you used Va3ux?
 

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luisa said:
Any pics of the funnekl that you used Va3ux?
Yea, I'll take some and post them. NAPA part number 79392. But the actual Miller Tool (SPX) part was something ridiculous like $45. They can stuff that.

It isn't anything super special, but it's the way it attaches to the system and the fact that it keeps a postive head of coolant above the entire engine while you're running the engine with the bleeder cracked. Overpriced for what it is, but it definitely gets the job done. And it comes with a variety of fitting for use on many different engines

After posting a question on a Usenet forum, a Chrysler technician e-mailed me off-line and told me about the special funnel they use. If you look at the top of the coolant tank, it says something like, "For proper fill, Use Miller Tool # xxxx". He described the procedure and then I looked it up in the FSM and there it was.

When I changed the coolant a couple of years ago I didn't know about this. I just re-filled through the coolant tank until it appeared at the bleeder valve and that was it. Eventually the level in the coolant tank drops and you add more and more until it stops taking it. But during that time, you're running with air pockets in the engine (although I didn't realize it).

This time, with the "magic funnel" - I bet 2 more quarts went into the engine after the coolant first appeared at the bleeder, following the procedure in the FSM (running the engine at 1500 - 2000 RPM with the heater on full blast, a hose on the bleeder and maintaining a level in the funnel above the engine). Air kept coming out for 10 or 15 minutes ! I couldn't believe it.

Now that I own this funnel, I realize that you could make one for less money than store-bought. Buy a second pressure cap for the coolant tank. Buy a good size sturdy funnel ( 1 - 2 quart size). Drill out the center of the cap with a hole large enough so that funnel is a good snug fit with it's tapered snout. Epoxy or glue the funnel into place. There you have it.
 

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marif said:
Guys, thanks much - I'm goin to do it this wk-end. Thanks Phil for taking the time for the writeup.
You're quite welcome Marif. Weekend is about right - it took me all weekend to get 6 dumps and refills done, allowing time in between for the engine to cool off. I bought eight 4 liter (4 quart) jugs of distilled water from the grocery store for the dump/refill procedure and for the final mix. It was a lot of time but at least I know that I really did replace all the coolant.

It might seem a bit overkill, but here's how the math works and this is why you don't just drain the rad once and then refill.

Total volume = 9 liters
Volume drained from rad = 4 liters each time (measured), Includes sqeezing hoses and blowing into the coolant tank (yea, yea - I know).

1st refill with 4 liters distilled water. % of original coolant remaining = 55%.
Run engine until hot to ensure thorough mixing, then let cool before the next step.

2nd drain/refill with 4 liters distilled water. % of original coolant remaining = 30%. Same again - run the engine (drive around the block a couple of times, then let cool before proceeding).

3rd Drain/refill. % of original coolant remaining = 17 %
Run engine for mixing and then cool.

4th Drain'refill. % original remaining = 9 %
Run engine for mixing then cool.

5th drain/refill. % original remaining = 5% ( 95% distilled water + 5 % old coolant). Run engine for mixing then cool.

6th Drain - removes 4 liters of 95% water + 5% old coolant. Then add 4 liters of straight undiluted new coolant, which happens to be one full jug. Resulting mixture = 44% new coolant + 56% water (close to the typical 50/50). This is good enough to drive with.

Next step to get up above a 50/50 mixture, is to drain just 2 liters (quarts) of the new 44% coolant mixture and replace with 2 liters of straight undiluted coolant. This gives you a mixture of 56% new coolant. You can do this anytime convenient - next day, next week, whatever. Note that this requires a second jug of coolant. But it leaves exactly half a jug of new coolant, which you then mix with 2 liters of distilled water, and you now have a full jug of 50/50 coolant to keep in the garage for top ups during the next couple of years.

If you want a stronger final mixture than 56%, drain a full 4 liters of the 44% coolant mixture and replace with 4 liters of full strength undiluted coolant. This yields a 68% final mixture - or the basic 70/30 mixture for maximum freeze protection.

But note that even though the freeze protection is better and the additive level is higher, a 70/30 mixture is actually a poorer cooling medium than 50/50 ( and straight water is a better cooling medium than any mixture - but we can't run with that). If you live down south, a 40/60 or 50/50 mixture is all you need. If you live in northern Ontario or in Manitoba, you need the 70/30.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Wow, I got real good response from this post. Thanks everyone for the input. I see there is a lot of draining and refilling. What do you end up doing with the drained coolant? Do stores take it back like used motor oil? I wouldn't think it responsible to just drain it in the street (nice kitty)? So whats up?
Thanks Again
Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Does anyone remember the old way of flushing? You would put a connector into the heater core line, then connect a hose to it. Add some flush solution to the dadiator. Let the hose run a while a wala. Done!
 

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va3ux said:
Yea, I'll take some and post them. NAPA part number 79392. But the actual Miller Tool (SPX) part was something ridiculous like $45. They can stuff that.

It isn't anything super special, but it's the way it attaches to the system and the fact that it keeps a postive head of coolant above the entire engine while you're running the engine with the bleeder cracked. Overpriced for what it is, but it definitely gets the job done. And it comes with a variety of fitting for use on many different engines

After posting a question on a Usenet forum, a Chrysler technician e-mailed me off-line and told me about the special funnel they use. If you look at the top of the coolant tank, it says something like, "For proper fill, Use Miller Tool # xxxx". He described the procedure and then I looked it up in the FSM and there it was.

When I changed the coolant a couple of years ago I didn't know about this. I just re-filled through the coolant tank until it appeared at the bleeder valve and that was it. Eventually the level in the coolant tank drops and you add more and more until it stops taking it. But during that time, you're running with air pockets in the engine (although I didn't realize it).

This time, with the "magic funnel" - I bet 2 more quarts went into the engine after the coolant first appeared at the bleeder, following the procedure in the FSM (running the engine at 1500 - 2000 RPM with the heater on full blast, a hose on the bleeder and maintaining a level in the funnel above the engine). Air kept coming out for 10 or 15 minutes ! I couldn't believe it.

Now that I own this funnel, I realize that you could make one for less money than store-bought. Buy a second pressure cap for the coolant tank. Buy a good size sturdy funnel ( 1 - 2 quart size). Drill out the center of the cap with a hole large enough so that funnel is a good snug fit with it's tapered snout. Epoxy or glue the funnel into place. There you have it.
Thanks alot Bro!, :), one otherquestion for you tho, hmmm,That funnel actually makes the coolant go down, with the added pressure from the cap rite?, Any pics yet....? ;)
 

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luisa said:
Thanks alot Bro!, :), one otherquestion for you tho, hmmm,That funnel actually makes the coolant go down, with the added pressure from the cap rite?, Any pics yet....? ;)
No. The pressure cap is simply a way of mounting the funnel to the coolant tank and have it not leak when the level in the funnel is above the engine. It does not keep any pressure on the cooling system. Therefore, you can't run the engine too long or get it too hot because you could start to boil the water in the block.

I've taken pictures but haven't posted them yet. I'll notify everyone when that's done.

In the meantime, check pages 7-9 and 7-10 of the FSM. It's all in there. That's what I did. I'm no genius - I just read the manual and followed the procedure.
 

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bhowe said:
Does anyone remember the old way of flushing? You would put a connector into the heater core line, then connect a hose to it. Add some flush solution to the dadiator. Let the hose run a while a wala. Done!
You can still do all that. The kits are available. I debated doing that but then didn't want any residual tap water in the engine to deal with. Plus I know that my cooling system is already very clean so I didn't have a reason to flush any crap out.
 
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