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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the life of me i cant find where im leaking antifreeze, oil is not milky, seems like water pump( belt driven) is a little wobley it overheats while driveing a half hour no visible leaks ,,losing coolant though
 

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bad cap not holding pressure can push coolant out.
o-ring as stated, also lower intake to head gaskets leak.
coolant reserve bottles crack.
return to t-stat housing tube is also prone to corrosion and leak.
plus the pump as you stated.
as the engine warms while running is the best to look for leaks while it gains pressure.
after operating temp, the pressure drops as it's released, and the leak may even dry up until the next heat cycle if small enough.
happy searching.

head gaskets are rare, and would probably cause a miss as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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For the life of me i cant find where im leaking antifreeze, oil is not milky, seems like water pump( belt driven) is a little wobley it overheats while driveing a half hour no visible leaks ,,losing coolant though
Update bluu eagle writes i wrote my first post approx. 35 minutes ago right when i started my stop watch and what i wrote is (what my sister told me 30 mins it heats up she said couldnt see where leak was)35 mins run time coolant came shooting out of the resivour. Watch Product Gesture Yellow Font

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Before the water comes shooting out, does the upper radiator hose pressurize?

Is the cap sealing? When the system is cool, remove the cap, turn it upside down and inspect the rubber seal for cracks or pitting.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I put the correct cap on and picks up temp a little quicker but still wants to push coolant out the resivour vent HELP!
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Before the water comes shooting out, does the upper radiator hose pressurize?

Is the cap sealing? When the system is cool, remove the cap, turn it upside down and inspect the rubber seal for cracks or pitting.
Thank you for reply
did it blow out at 35 mins, or did the car start overheating at that point?
if it keeps overheating it will blow out coolant too and may be a different problem.
It blew out at 35 min. The temp. Gradually came up ,, now i put a new cap on it fit sung ,got coolant mixed perfect brang coolant up to level. This time started to spit out and boil in resivour ,,but dash gauge
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I put the correct cap on and picks up temp a little quicker but still wants to push coolant out the resivour vent HELP! View attachment 41952

Thank you for reply

It blew out at 35 min. The temp. Gradually came up ,, now i put a new cap on it fit sung ,got coolant mixed perfect brang coolant up to level. This time started to spit out and boil in resivour at 25 mins.
,,but dash gauge read ok is it the termostat
 

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every time you fill it back up, do you bleed the air out?
there is a procedure to properly fill these engines.
do the fans come on when the guage starts to rise above normal?
normal is just befotre the half mark usually on the guage.
 

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I put the correct cap on and picks up temp a little quicker but still wants to push coolant out the resivour vent HELP! View attachment 41952

Thank you for reply

It blew out at 35 min. The temp. Gradually came up ,, now i put a new cap on it fit sung ,got coolant mixed perfect brang coolant up to level. This time started to spit out and boil in resivour ,,but dash gauge read ok is it the termostat
My thoughts?

Several possibilities:

(1) The same temperature sensor is what the PCM uses to drive the gauge and turn you radiator fans on. If the sensor is saying the temperature is much lower than it really is => Gage reading normal or cooler temperature, fans not coming on due to false temperature reading, actual overheating.

(2) Thermostat is not opening OR radiator is clogged OR water pump impeller is spinning on the shaft or came apart - so no flow other than in the heater core loop (with bad water pump, no flow there either). With no major flow, coolant could be boiling in the major engine core, but you have stagnation at the temperature sensor. => Gage reading normal or cooler temperature, fans not coming on due to false temperature reading, actual overheating.

Notice result of (1) is same as result for (2).

(3) Was the system properly and completely bled of air, or is it only partially filled with coolant with pockets of air taking up space and making it look full when it's not? => overheating

(4) Thermostat is installed backwards - yes that can and has happened to more than a few people. Sensing pellet needs to go towards engine. => overheating

(5) Bad head gasket? => extra pressure and heat

We'll assume the Stant cap is same form, fit, and function as OEM cap.

If water pump is working, the upper radiator hose would be somewhat pressurized with the engine rev'ed when cold (from back pressure against closed thermostat). If impeller slipping on shaft or broken, you won't feel pressure in upper rad. hose with engine rev'd when cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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See my post #49 for what I did to resolve overheating problem on my 2001 Intrepid 3.2:


Having the car on ramps helps tremendously with getting the air bubbles removed.
 

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See my post #49 for what I did to resolve overheating problem on my 2001 Intrepid 3.2:


Having the car on ramps helps tremendously with getting the air bubbles removed.
Front of car on the ramps to tilt the car back (trapped air would tend to move to higher voids at front of engine where bleeder and upper rad hose are)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My thoughts?

Several possibilities:

(1) The same temperature sensor is what the PCM uses to drive the gauge and turn you radiator fans on. If the sensor is saying the temperature is much lower than it really is => Gage reading normal or cooler temperature, fans not coming on due to false temperature reading, actual overheating.

(2) Thermostat is not opening OR radiator is clogged OR water pump impeller is spinning on the shaft or came apart - so no flow other than in the heater core loop (with bad water pump, no flow there either). With no major flow, coolant could be boiling in the major engine core, but you have stagnation at the temperature sensor. => Gage reading normal or cooler temperature, fans not coming on due to false temperature reading, actual overheating.

Notice result of (1) is same as result for (2).

(3) Was the system properly and completely bled of air, or is it only partially filled with coolant with pockets of air taking up space and making it look full when it's not? => overheating

(4) Thermostat is installed backwards - yes that can and has happened to more than a few people. Sensing pellet needs to go towards engine. => overheating

(5) Bad head gasket? => extra pressure and heat

We'll assume the Stant cap is same form, fit, and function as OEM cap.

If water pump is working, the upper radiator hose would be somewhat pressurized with the engine rev'ed when cold (from back pressure against closed thermostat). If impeller slipping on shaft or broken, you won't feel pressure in upper rad. hose with engine rev'd when cold.
Thank you no pressure on upper hose I am going to replace the water pump
 

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I don't remember for sure bolt size for thermostat housing, but I'm thinking M6x1.0 pitch.

If the bolts are original factory bolts and the head takes a 10mm wrench, then the thread is definitely M6x1.0.
 
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