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Usually when I shut off the car, after about 5 mins or so a little bit of coolant will leak onto the ground. Chrysler tells me this is normal and Midas says that I should replace the water pump. I just replaced the water pump and timing belt about a year ago. Is this normal? This car has a 3.5L V6.
 

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If you don't see it coming off any of the hoses or the thermostat housing, it's probably the water pump. There's a weep hole right at the bottom of the timing belt cover.
 

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smelanson said:
Usually when I shut off the car, after about 5 mins or so a little bit of coolant will leak onto the ground. Chrysler tells me this is normal and Midas says that I should replace the water pump. I just replaced the water pump and timing belt about a year ago. Is this normal? This car has a 3.5L V6.
When you say Chrysler told you a coolant leak is normal. Did you mean a dealership ?? if so I would report that to Chrysler Corp or a zone representative. Who ever told you that is so full of crap, and is doing nothing but giving chrysler a bad name.
 

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smelanson said:
Usually when I shut off the car, after about 5 mins or so a little bit of coolant will leak onto the ground. Chrysler tells me this is normal and Midas says that I should replace the water pump. I just replaced the water pump and timing belt about a year ago. Is this normal? This car has a 3.5L V6.
When you replaced the water pump did you use a new pump or a rebuilt? A new pump is the way to go as the rebuilt pumps don't seem to last very long. Just my $0.02.

FredB
 

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smelanson said:
Yes it was a dealership and I did get a new pump not a rebuild. I will double check round the weep hole.
Coolant leaking on ground is never normal. In fact it is dangerous, leaving slick spots in parking lots, killing animals that might drink it, even small amounts leaking are not environmentally good. I would get this normal condition documented by dealer service or at least let Chrysler know this dealer is not wanting to address this problem!
 

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The causes of leaks up front can include:

Water pump
Upper hose
Lower hose
heater hoses
bypass hose *
bad clamps

The bypass hose was leaking on my wife's '96 3.3L. She thought the overflow hose was bad, and she had me tie it in a knot. The next time we drove the car, coolant pressure couldn't escape the overflow tank, and escaped through the only remaining place it could, the bypass hose that runs from the water outlet (thermostat area) to the water pump. It sprayed coolant directly onto the front of the engine block and dripped on the ground from there. Hose had a nice layer of silicate and had sprayed silicates all over the block. White powdery stuff, very hard to remove.

Anyway, the hose is 5/8ths ID, a foot long, and was a dollar to replace. Plus nine bucks for a bottle of coolant and a couple bucks for new clamps. Piece of cake, except the water pump side of the hose is a PITA to get to. Changed the hose, put on new clamps, filled the system and bled it, and no problems since. Car had been overheating within an hour of driving, more so with AC on.
 

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Lol... normal leakage !? friggin' lazy ass dealers.

Probably not news to anyone here but... the engine 'bakes' for a few minutes right after you shut 'er down. The temperature will spike, this is when the coolant is at it's highest temp/pressure. This is when hoses/gaskets and rad cores see thier highest loads. The 'normal' escape route is past the rad. cap and into the over-flow reserve. If it's leaking any where else, it's doing so at a pressure less than the relief valve in the rad cap. So long as your rad cap is the proper one for your engine and is in good condition any leakage is ABnormal.

If it's leaking past the shaft seal in the waterpump, it'll run out the weeping hole.
 

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You must replace the water pump again.

Sorry to say so, but water pumps go bad very often.
I agree with Fred that remanufactured pumps are more likely to leak than new ones.

I had once put one in and it started to leak after 600 miles.
I think this is due to a lack of inspection. But never mind.
There is no way you can tell dealer gave you a new pump.
I know some dealers are buying remanufactured stuff.

Which year is yours?

I have a pump and a belt for sale for a 93/94 car.
Here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=7983699372

I would suggest you replace the pump and the belt yourself to save money.
It is easy.

There is one interesting fact about these pumps.
There is a slight difference between the 93-94 and the 95-97 model.
The first one is designed to spin faster.
It gives you more cooling.

But to swap a pump from 97 to 93 requires shorter Tbelt.
I have that improvement in my 97 Intrepid 3.5

Also I did a bleeder shortcut between the thermostat housing and coolant reservoir. It bleeds the system all the time.
 

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CDN R/T said:
So long as your rad cap is the proper one for your engine and is in good condition any leakage is ABnormal.
QUOTE]
Just curious, how do you know if it is the correct rad cap? I bought one at autozone with the pressure release. I may have to start a new post about my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Chuy said:
CDN R/T said:
So long as your rad cap is the proper one for your engine and is in good condition any leakage is ABnormal.
QUOTE]
Just curious, how do you know if it is the correct rad cap? I bought one at autozone with the pressure release. I may have to start a new post about my problem.
Not sure myself, but good news the water pump was my problem.
 
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