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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have an 02 3.5 Intrepid. It cranks, but will not start. V reading at Coil read .22V, took another reading at C101, .71 V. Took a V reading at 85 and 87 of the ASD relay, got battery voltage (so PCM is working properly). Tested the relay and it works just fine, no V drops along the switch. Did a resistance reading from terminal 30 in the relay to the fuse (inside the PDC), only got a reading of .2 OHMS. Said screw it and paid the $18 for a new relay, and same, cranks but will not start. Now I am getting frustrated, checked the voltage to the camshaft sensor, got my 5V reading, got the proper V reading at the crankshaft sensor as well.

I also did my spark tests and got intermittent spark, which might as well be no spark.

So basically, everything is reading like it should work properly, but isn't. I am getting a huge V drop somewhere after the relay, but I cannot figure out where. The resistance readings do not support it being in the PDC, but that is obviously where it is.

It's not the fuel either, pressure test and V/resistance tests at the injectors, everything is fine. And plenty of air. Got air, fuel but no spark.

The O2 sensors are also connected to the ASD, checked those as well, getting that .22V reading at the fuse. And don't fret, I am doing these tests with KOEO.

Oh, the vehicle is also not throwing any codes at me.

Kind of at the end of my rope here. Not sure what I am missing here.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Did you check Fuse S a 20 amp in the Power Distribution Center under the hood. It's the 12 VDC supply for both the Coils and Injectors.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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What's the condition of the timing belt? Verified it's not broken?

Can also try disconnecting the Cam sensor and see if it starts. If not my next step would be to replace the Crankshaft sensor with a genuine Mopar part and not some crap from the parts store.

The engine will run with a good CKP sensor and the CMP sensor disconnected. It won't rev over 2500 RPM. If it is the CMP sensor then the same advice stands for getting a genuine Mopar replacement part.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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And what trim level do you have? is it SKIMM equipped? Factory Alarm and Sentry key? Gray key?
 

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And lastly any symptoms before this happened? Or is this a car you bought non-running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No symptoms before, it's a 300K vehicle, but ran great before this. Belt is in good condition, replaced it myself not too long ago, factory alarm . Found something, upon turning the vehicle on, the relay turns on and I get battery power AFTER the relay, then after a few seconds the relay shuts down and it's back to .22V. Will turn my attention towards the ignition switch, and alarm/sentry key.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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The PCM turns on the ASD relay for a few seconds to run the fuel pump. If it doesn't detect a start condition within a few seconds, it'll turn the ASD off.

Again...try disconnecting the CMP sensor and try starting it.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Either CKP sensor or PCM then. Good Luck.
 

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If the Sentry/SKIMM were tripped. It wouldn't allow the starter to run at all. Does the alarm arm/disarm normally? Using the remote locking the doors does the dash LED start to blink slowly after about 5 seconds like all is normal? If it is then the Sentry isn't interfereing.
 

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Symptom:
*ENGINE CRANKS DOES NOT START

POSSIBLE CAUSES

FUEL PUMP RELAY
NO START PRE-TEST
OTHER POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR NO START
POWERTRAIN FUSES OPEN
FUEL PRESSURE OUT OF SPECS
RESTRICTED FUEL SUPPLY LINE
FUEL PUMP INLET STRAINER PLUGGED
FUEL PUMP MODULE
FUEL PUMP RELAY FUSED B+ CIRCUIT
FUEL PUMP RELAY OUTPUT CIRCUIT OPEN
FUEL PUMP GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN/HIGH RESISTANCE
FUEL PUMP MODULE

Note: The following list of items must be checked before continuing with
any no start tests.
The battery must be fully charged and in good condition. A low charged battery may
produce invalid test results. If the battery is low, charge the battery and then attempt
to start the vehicle by cranking the engine for 15 seconds, 3 consecutive times.
This will allow any DTC’s to set that may have been erased due to a dead battery.
Ensure the Powers and Ground to the PCM are ok.
Make sure the PCM communicates with the DRB and that there are no DTC’s stored
in the PCM memory. If the PCM reports a No Response condition, refer to the
Communication category for the proper tests.
Read the PCM DTC’s with the DRB. If any DTC’s are present, they must be repaired
before continuing with any other No Start diagnostic tests. Refer to the Symptom list
for the related P-code that is reported by the PCM.
Ensure that the PCI bus is functional. Attempt to communicate with the Instrument
Cluster and SKIM, If you are unable to establish communicate refer to the
Communication category for the proper symptoms.
The Sentry Key Immobilizer System must be operating properly. Check for proper
communication with the DRBIIIt and check for DTC’s that may be stored in the
Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM). repair the DTC(s) before continuing.
If no DTC’s are found, using the DRB select Clear PCM (Batt Disconnect).
Crank the engine several times. Using the DRB, read DTC’s. If a DTC is present
perform the DTC diagnostics before continuing.
Were any problems found?
 

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The following items need to be checked as a possible cause for a no start condition.
Refer to any Technical Service Bulletins that may apply to the symptom.
The spark plugs must be free from fuel, oil, coolant and/or any foreign material or
deposits.
The fuel must be free from contamination.
The exhaust may be free from restrictions.
The engine compression must be within specifications.
The engine valve timing must be within specifications.
The engine must be free from vacuum leaks.
Were any of the above conditions found?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did verify that my fuel, air, and everything else listed is within specifications. I am in the process of checking all the wiring to the CMP and CKP, have verified power and ground, and will work on the signal wires next. I had new Mopar CMP and CKP sensors already for the rebuild so just went ahead and installed them, so my next step is going to be manually turning the crank to make sure I am getting that signal from each.

I'm a resto guy, I don't have a whole lot of experience diagnosing, so have been re-learning quite a bit, it's coming back, slowly.
 

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You'd think the dam PCM would have given some P fault codes !! There are at least four P codes associated with a condition of an open circuit I mean what the furshtuntz ! I'm currently having the same exact issue, the engine cranks, I'm getting voltage to the injectors, I'm getting fuel and no fault codes at all. I will proceed to check the wiring out tomorrow morning but dagnab if its an open circuit crank position sensor the PCM should in theory detect this and in practice also..... stupida computer !!!
 
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