DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So finally after get my steering and suspension in working order im able to start repairing the paint and body.

Iv decided to do it piece by piece which is about the only way i will ever get it done before it gets to bad to even repair even if i had a **** ton of money which i don't.

These three spots are the worst on the whole car with only a few tiny areas on the doors to fill and the bumpers to hand sand im looking at about ah month until im done.







Today i started on the trunk lid going from 80 grit to 180 and then 320 but i ran out of daylight so tomorrow the edges and the front are all i have left to sand then i can get the primer laid down and sanded ready for paint on Monday.

After working on this for most of the day and really taking my time i have it smooth as silk.



I know that rattle can paint isn't exactly the greatest way to go but if done right i should get a pretty decent look out of it for a few years and the rusty areas will be gone which is really my main concern for now.



More to come tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Well in this pic i have two coats of self etching primer on but needed one more then got three coats of black sandable primer so tomorrow it gets sanded with 600 and painted.



I will get more pics of where im at now that i would have taken earlier but my camera broke and i had to fix it but was dark by the time i did.
 

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
51,014 Posts
Interesting! Curious to see the final product!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
706 Posts
remember to spray in sweeping motions, releasing the button at the end of each sweep, and pressing it at the start of the next.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Ok this is after 5 coats of the black acrylic enamel and as you can see there are lines that really look worse in the pic then they really are but they are inevitable when using rattle can paint so once its completely dry it will get wet sanded with 1000 grit to level everything out then cleared.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
So after screwing up the paint with the wrong cleaner iv decided to sand it back down and repaint using a HVLP gun and the Duplicolor Paint Shop jet black base coat and clear coat.

Hopefully i can get the trunk lid done tomorrow so i can see how well the paint lays down.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Base coat done but no clear coat pics yet thanks to the rain starting right as i laid the 1st coat which brought up the humidity and fogged it over :pissed:

So for now im done with this until later in the year when its cooler and the humidity is not as high.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks man!!

The 1st coat of clear went on last night but the humidity caused it to cloud up on me so i will most likely need to sand the clear back off and redo it before going any farther.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,218 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Other then the few more high spots i found wet sanding the clear the other day that's about it.

Im going to have to sand the clear back down to level it all out and repaint the bad areas and re clear it later in the year when the humidity drops down to a better level.

I suggest you wait to paint yours as well to save yourself the aggravation iv experienced so far.

From what iv gathered it needs to be less than 50 percent to keep the clear from clouding and blotching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
763 Posts
ah the good old repairs lol....well its nice to be back on this site knowing that it still lives...my treps not doing to good....can't really seem to figure out whats wrong with the trans but because this is a bodywork and paint thread....just letting you guys know that my trep that just got painted...has to get repainted do to all the scratches and such so that sucks...its all faded and what not already....1 stage paint sucks....
so with that being said i invested in some sprayers and now choosing the new paint...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
763 Posts
some are down to bare metal and the primer and is all in random spots around the car...when we had the car painted the coats were too thin..from what i see
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,235 Posts
There are special additives that slow down the drying for high humidity conditions. Check with your local auto body/paint supply shop, tell them you need retarder for whatever you are using, lacquer, enamel or urethane. In high humidity the best to use is lacquer, and lacquer clear because you can wetsand and buff it to a mirror gloss no matter what. If you can, raise the heat level (yeah it will suck) in your shop or paint booth with some heat lamps, it will help dry the air.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top