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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 96 Concorde with a 3.3...about 131K miles.

Her CEL came on previously and gave me come 12,43,55. Ye old AutoZone's machine told me a cylinger 6 misfire. I checked all the wires, and pulled the plug on cylinder six (which is the pain in th butt cylnder in the back). I actually replaced the plug, and the CEL went away.

For about a month.

Now she is back with the same codes. I replaced the wires about 6 months ago. Does it sound like I got a bad set of wires last time? She is idling a bit rough, as if she were a muscle car.

I appreciate the help!
 

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A misfire code doesn't automatically mean a spark issue, as I found out on my wife's sebring. Anything that causes incomplete combustion will set a misfire code. In the case of her car, it turned out to be a bad fuel injector. They moved the #5 injector to the #6 cylinder and after that it started throwing a cylinder #6 misfire code. If you've already looked into the ignition stuff, start looking into fuel related, like the injector.
 

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What brand and type of plugs do you got in her?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have the Bosch Platinum plugs.

Are injectors difficult to replace? I can do most basic work on her myself, things like replacing the alternator, the fuel pump) but anything TOO complicated might be over my head...
 

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I'm not too familiar with the setup on the 3.3L as far as the upper intake, more more often than not, it'll have to come off to get at the fuel rails. Usually there are a couple bolts holding down the fuel rail to the lower intake manifold and then it pops off the lower intake. If you want to test things out, try swapping injectors from the suspect cylinder to a different one and see if you get a new code for that new cylinder.

On a side note, seeing how you're using platinums. I've read of issues related to using plats in engines not originally equipped with them. It would seem odd, however, that you'd get a misfire code on only one cylinder if it had to do with using platinum plugs.
 

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To get to the fuel rail you just have to disconnect the EGR pipe, disconnect the wires to the sensors, throttle cables, pvc hose etc. that are connected to the top plenum and take the three bolts out that are down the middle. Then your right to the rail. Before you pull the rail cover the openings and clean and blow the lower manifold off good, and pull the injectors keeping them connected to the fuel rail. You pull the clip (don't loose it) to remove them from the rail. Oil the O ring to reinstall, but you should replace the o-ring to prevent leaks. they don't cost much.

Before you do that how long have the Bosch Platinum plugs been in. Those often don't run very well in the trep engines. I would stick with the stock champions. The plugs could be your problem.

#6 has the shortest plug wire so dont think that would be your problem. But you might try running the engine in the dark and see if you see any arcing on any wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just put the platinum plugs in a couple of months ago...easy first step to replace them with the regular plugs?

Plug 6 is where I threw the code last time, si I fugured I might have mis-thread the plug putting it in, since it goins in with very little torque...but it seems to be in there fine though.

Luckily, the car is not driven heavily...a total of maybe 10 miles a day on average, local.
 

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replace all plugs with bosch plugs and good quality insulated wires.

this will help and im sure the problem wont come back after a month.

edit: nvm i see u changed ur plugs recently.
 

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I would switch the plugs out for good old Champion Coppers. And see what happens. The plugs that you got in there now maybe your problem.
 

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I am curious as to what type of plug wires you put in, because if they are parts store plug wires which offer you a lifetime replacement warranty, you might as well trash them now. Yeah, they may be lifetime but you are usually replacing the stupid things every three to six months or so; I would definitely look into a better set of wires, which may cost more, but will last you for years, and like the others have stated, get champion plugs RN14MC5 for the 3.3 engine. After that, if it is still missing, there are only so many other things it could be, and I am sure it would be easier to determine what it is.

Edit: Also, I forgot about this. If you have access to a multimeter, you can disconnect the plug wire from cylinder 6 and test the resistance in the wire; they usually have around 7,000 ohms resistance in them.
 

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When you change the plugs are you putting anti seize on them? All car now you must put it on or you will have problem with threads.
 

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By any chance, is the #6 plug wire hanging over anything sharp or hot? Its possible you could have either burned a hole in the insulation, or chaffed a hole by rubbin on something metal. Pull that plug wire and check it over thoroughly. Also, somebody erlier suggested looking for a blue arching or glow. In the dark with the engine running if you've got a leaking wire you'll be able to see it many times.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
dodgerunner said:
When you change the plugs are you putting anti seize on them? All car now you must put it on or you will have problem with threads.

I didn't put anti seize initially, but I bought a new plug in case I screwed up thr threads on the old one. When I put the new one, I used antiseize...
 

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da Rican said:
I didn't put anti seize initially, but I bought a new plug in case I screwed up thr threads on the old one. When I put the new one, I used antiseize...
Chances are, with aluminum heads, you'll screw up the threads in the cylinder head before you'll screw up the steel threads of a spark plug. Antiseize keeps the plugs from getting stuck in the heads. there was a thread recently about this issue. It is possible (not in this case) that if you put too much antiseize on the plug, it could cause issues by getting on the electrodes. but that's a whole different story.

As much as it may be a pain to get it out, pull the #6 plug and see how it looks. does it look like a good burning plug or is it carbon fouled, or white or whatever else might show up on it. I still wonder on an injector issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
froggy81500 said:
Chances are, with aluminum heads, you'll screw up the threads in the cylinder head before you'll screw up the steel threads of a spark plug. Antiseize keeps the plugs from getting stuck in the heads. there was a thread recently about this issue. It is possible (not in this case) that if you put too much antiseize on the plug, it could cause issues by getting on the electrodes. but that's a whole different story.

As much as it may be a pain to get it out, pull the #6 plug and see how it looks. does it look like a good burning plug or is it carbon fouled, or white or whatever else might show up on it. I still wonder on an injector issue.

Last time I pulled that plug, it looked fine. Other than the CEL, you wouldn't know anything is wrong while driving her, except when at idle. Then she feels like a muscle car. As for a list of work done in the past year:

new IAC
new CAM sensor
new MAP sensor
new fuel pump
new fuel filter
new alternator
new starter
new plugs and wires
new battery


I am sure I am missing more things I have done to her...
 

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Well, the "usual suspects" are out of the way, except for the coil packs. I still think it might be an injector. Do you actually feel a skip or miss or anything when the CEL comes on? Since you are getting a code specifically pointing at the #6, then it should rule out a central issue, like a fuel pump. Since its an intermittant thing, I think its safe to rule out major issues like burnt/bent valves, head gasket, cam timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
froggy81500 said:
Well, the "usual suspects" are out of the way, except for the coil packs. I still think it might be an injector. Do you actually feel a skip or miss or anything when the CEL comes on? Since you are getting a code specifically pointing at the #6, then it should rule out a central issue, like a fuel pump. Since its an intermittant thing, I think its safe to rule out major issues like burnt/bent valves, head gasket, cam timing.

No skips or miss...just runs a little rough at idle...other than that, she runs fine...I suspect I have a coolant leak somewhere, as I have to top that off once a week or so (although living in hot ass Florida might not be helping that), but nothing else.
 

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da Rican said:
No skips or miss...just runs a little rough at idle...other than that, she runs fine...I suspect I have a coolant leak somewhere, as I have to top that off once a week or so (although living in hot ass Florida might not be helping that), but nothing else.
Uh huh. A coolant leak. Leaking externally onto the ground, or just mysteriously disappearing? If its not leaking out, its leaking in and that could be a head gasket on its way out. You may want to get the compression checked out, especially on cylinder #6.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
froggy81500 said:
Uh huh. A coolant leak. Leaking externally onto the ground, or just mysteriously disappearing? If its not leaking out, its leaking in and that could be a head gasket on its way out. You may want to get the compression checked out, especially on cylinder #6.

Leak on the ground. No smoke whatsoever, so I doubt it is the gasket.

Playing devils advocate, it is incredibly difficult to change the gasket? I used to have an Escort many moons ago, and I junked the car rather than attempt THAT nightmare...
 

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Leaks on the ground is better than leaking inside the engine. Can you tell where abouts its leaking from? It is still possible for the head gasket to leak outside, and they aren't all that easy to replace. Perhaps you got a leaky hose, or possibly the water pump starting to leak because the shaft seal is going.
 
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