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Discussion Starter #1
Bought this a while back. 2000 300M (Base model?) 175k miles on it. Only real issues are.

Climate control does NOT work. Only blows heat from the vents.

Blown rear speakers.

Front bumper is cracked, pitted, chipped, and broke.

And the paint / clear coat is bad.

And my crappy walmart fog lights wiring harness fell apart.






What does everyone think? What's the reliability on these? How many miles can I push it? I had a '97 ES intrepid that had 201k and it was starting to get tired...

it's at 176k now. What are some things I should do to make it go for another 100k?
 

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The 3.5Liters are very hard to kill there is a guy who brought his up to i think 440k and then something happened. He replace the engine and it's still trucking 750k+. Sounds like you just need normal maintenance. Also many people on here will suggest you replace water pump + timing chain.
 

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The 3.5Liters are very hard to kill there is a guy who brought his up to i think 440k and then something happened. He replace the engine and it's still trucking 750k+. Sounds like you just need normal maintenance. Also many people on here will suggest you replace water pump + timing chain.
His name is Hank. Its estimated he has way over 750k now, but his odometer broke so nobody really knows how many miles he has now.

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Discussion Starter #5
His name is Hank. Its estimated he has way over 750k now, but his odometer broke so nobody really knows how many miles he has now.

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Holy CRAP!!! O_O

Well, I know it needs a tranny flush bad. What fluid would you recommend for it? I do alot of Highway / Mountain driving. So, it involves alot of steep grades both up and down.
 

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Any brand. AFT+4 is what makes it what it is. Walmart, Valvoline, Havoline, MOPAR - there is a list floating around here someplace with a notice about some non-approved oil companies selling "ATF+4" that really isn't, but any oil company you've heard of normally is approved - and yes, Walmart brand ATF+4 is on the approved list, and is what my mill has been pushing for several years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Any brand. AFT+4 is what makes it what it is. Walmart, Valvoline, Havoline, MOPAR - there is a list floating around here someplace with a notice about some non-approved oil companies selling "ATF+4" that really isn't, but any oil company you've heard of normally is approved - and yes, Walmart brand ATF+4 is on the approved list, and is what my mill has been pushing for several years now.
I see. well, thanks. I gotta get the tranny flushed sometime soon.
 

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If you have a shop do it, do not let them tell you "we use universal fluid" or "we put in an additive to make it o.k.". If that is what you hear, drive away with your foot to the floor and never return... or at least nicely decline and don't have it serviced there. Make sure they have a separate machine for ATF+4 fluid, or have a dealer do it - or just do a pan drop and do a filter change yourself or something. Or, if you find a garage to do it for you, bring them your fluid for the pan drop and filter change.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you have a shop do it, do not let them tell you "we use universal fluid" or "we put in an additive to make it o.k.". If that is what you hear, drive away with your foot to the floor and never return... or at least nicely decline and don't have it serviced there. Make sure they have a separate machine for ATF+4 fluid, or have a dealer do it - or just do a pan drop and do a filter change yourself or something. Or, if you find a garage to do it for you, bring them your fluid for the pan drop and filter change.
Thanks for the advice. My father had his '99 Taurus SHO tranny flushed and it later killed it because they put the wrong fluid in it.

I think I might go with the dealer... Or just supply my own fluid. How much fluid would I need to bring? My buddy said it needs a flushed and simply changing the fluid + filter won't do much good.
 

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Changing the fluid and filter I personally think is the best way to do it, but everyone has an opinion. The fluid circuit doesn't completely flush through the cooling lines (how the flush is done), so on our transmissions the flush doesn't do a total exchange. Doing a pan drop will drain something like 2/3 of the fluid. It also lets you look inside the bottom of the pan for debris, etc.

With the pan off the trans, it is a good time to drill a hole and install a drain plug kit - then use that to change the fluid next time.

I want to say that you should buy 12 quarts of fluid, and keep your receipt to return what you do not use. I think you'll end up using closer to 9 quarts. I could easily be over-estimating it - but I needed to use that much fluid last time I did it - but then again, I was also doing a used trans install with a nearly totally empty trans case (did a rear cover change because I used a second gen trans in my 1st gen car, and also had the torque converter out and turned upside down to drain most fluid).
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Changing the fluid and filter I personally think is the best way to do it, but everyone has an opinion. The fluid circuit doesn't completely flush through the cooling lines (how the flush is done), so on our transmissions the flush doesn't do a total exchange. Doing a pan drop will drain something like 2/3 of the fluid. It also lets you look inside the bottom of the pan for debris, etc.

With the pan off the trans, it is a good time to drill a hole and install a drain plug kit - then use that to change the fluid next time.

I want to say that you should buy 12 quarts of fluid, and keep your receipt to return what you do not use. I think you'll end up using closer to 9 quarts. I could easily be over-estimating it - but I needed to use that much fluid last time I did it - but then again, I was also doing a used trans install with a nearly totally empty trans case (did a rear cover change because I used a second gen trans in my 1st gen car, and also had the torque converter out and turned upside down to drain most fluid).
Said friend also claimed some other things, Which I know are wrong.. But he said if I wanted to "flush it myself" all I'd need to do is unhook one of the lines and run the car "Very briefly" and instantly I wanted to brick him in face with a blunt object. That is DUMB. But yeah.

I'll probably do it myself, Since I don't trust ANY shops.. Not even dealers.. And most of them will not listen to what I have to say.

What if I drain the fluid, Change filter, Drive car for abit and change filter and fluid again? I know it's expensive.. But I want this sucker cleaned out good so I can get many many more miles out of it.

EDIT: Even though right now my tranny shifts fine, No shutter to it or chatter. It does have a slight whine to it coming from a complete stop. Was thinking about using some of this after I do my flush. Has anyone used this before? Is it any good? I'd also like to use it to recondition any bad seals, belts, etc. I used it in my old Volvo and noticed a difference... But that was an 86 Volvo 4 speed. Not a 2000 model tranny.



http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bar-s-Leaks-Transmission-Repair/16794874
 

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I wouldn't use any chemicals or additives... mechanics in cans can only fix the cans they are in - they can't fix transmissions.

Yes, it is kinda generally considered that after 3-4 changes you will have exchanged like 95% of the fluid. I personally wouldn't do more than two, but that's cause I'm kinda cheap.
 
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