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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Where do you guys get it and is there a place to buy new? I just can't believe I can't fix this problem. The trunk one is broken where the latch is ,probably from dragging stuff in and out of the trunk. The door one in my 99 is the one piece model ,it shrunk but I pulled it back to length ,but its not sealing well. I got a piece from a Concorde but its a different style ,its cut in the middle and that's even shorter ....the damn thing shrunk like 2-3 inches. What you guys do to fix this. I can't believe I can't find weatherstripping. Also universal one doesn't fix because we have part of the seal that goes over the plastics around the door entrance ....ebay has none for sale ,rockauto none...I just don't know what to do.

I put over 7000 euros in the damn car to have it 100% factory and working ...and still can't fix weatherstripping...
 

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It can be a problem.

For the doors, the most practical solution that people have found is to find one door weatherstrip of the same type from a junk yard car, cut thru the one on your car at the bottom of the door, cut a section a few inches long from the junk yard one, and insert that between the cut ends to add overall length to make up for the shrinkage. You can insert some smaller diameter soft material to connect the cut ends and glue it with black RTV to finish it up.

Unfortunately, the only satisfactory solution for the trunk weatherstripping is to find the exact one from a junker. The two big problems are the scarcity of these cars in the yards these days and they pretty much all have tears in them from people dragging things across them. I guess you could do a cut and splice like with the door pieces to replace damaged sections IF you find one that is mostly undamaged - not as satisfying as a perfect whole one, but the chances of finding a perfect or near perfect one is slim.

There's a harness that goes thru the trunk weatherstripping that has to be partially uninstalled to put the replacement weatherstripping in without cutting and splicing it (assuming you aren't going to be cutting out and splicing damaged sections of the weatherstripping anyway).
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It can be a problem.

For the doors, the most practical solution that people have found is to find one door weatherstrip of the same type from a junk yard car, cut thru the one on your car at the bottom of the door, cut a section a few inches long from the junk yard one, and insert that between the cut ends to add overall length to make up for the shrinkage. You can insert some smaller diameter soft material to connect the cut ends and glue it with black RTV to finish it up.

Unfortunately, the only satisfactory solution for the trunk weatherstripping is to find the exact one from a junker. The two big problems are the scarcity of these cars in the yards these days and they pretty much all have tears in them from people dragging things across them. I guess you could do a cut and splice like with the door pieces to replace damaged sections IF you find one that is mostly undamaged - not as satisfying as a perfect whole one, but the chances of finding a perfect or near perfect one is slim.

There's a harness that goes thru the trunk weatherstripping that has to be partially uninstalled to put the replacement weatherstripping in without cutting and splicing it (assuming you aren't going to be cutting out and splicing damaged sections of the weatherstripping anyway).
None of above can happen because there are no 300Ms left around in my country...believe it or not I bought them all and all had the same issues.

Oh and I have no idea if there are any new made for sale at the dealer but even that is out of the question cuz the dealer here is Fiat...other than gay parades and shopping carts I don't think Fiat is good at anything. There are zero for sale on ebay....heck I can probably find human organs on the black market but a piece of seal for these cars is a unicorn.

in the mean time I got 4 different aftermarket options for my 88 Firebird....just wtf
 

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Yes - the seals are rarer than gay unicorns (from what I've seen, most unicorns appear to be gay). 🦄
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes - the seals are rarer than gay unicorns (from what I've seen, most unicorns appear to be gay). 🦄
That's Fiat alright lol
Last time I visited them they were not having any idea that 300M is from Chrysler ...
I can't figure out how to make new ones....is it possible to make seals on demand....its not like they are 3d printed (yup I 3d printed parts before) .I just don't know how to fix this and I can't believe I can't find them in US where people still have a car culture and still fix cars. Also for some reason the newer ones that are cut in the middle from factory once they shrink they won't get back in length . The stock ones from my 99 I got them back by stretching them...they are right length but they are torn on the driver side.

Also I bought till now 3 300M's from junkyards and 1 concorde ....i simply own the damn 300M junkyard scene in Europe lol ,but all are missing the parts I need.

p.s. Don't even mention the rear window seal...that thing comes with the rear window and from what I understand none are available. If you break the rear window you kinda total the car.
 

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When I had my Concorde re-painted, I replaced trim pieces (door window frame trim) with ones that were in much better condition than mine. The rubber molding around the rear window was sun damaged (faded and wrinkled) - as you said, made as part of the glass. I found a car in the junk yard on which that rubber looked brand new. I bought a special tool to cut the rear window seal loose from the car. Then I cut the rear windows out of the junk yard car and my car (that was a giant pain in the butt to do). Then I had the car painted with no rear window in it. After the car was painted, I took it to a glass shop with very good reputation and had them install the glass with the good molding that I got from the junk yard - it was a risk because if they had done a sloppy job, it would have been some cost and a lot of trouble for no gain. They did a perfect job - it looked factory. But, as you already said: no more cars in the junk yard.
 
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Where do you guys get it and is there a place to buy new? I just can't believe I can't fix this problem. ......
See my response in the thread at the bottom here if you are talking about the firm rubbery gasket material.

You can repair weatherstripping sections with good quality generic door/trunk auto weatherstripping from the parts stores. It is closed-cell firm stuff in various cross section shapes (not the squishy open-cell stuff). I believe there are still a few companies that make quality stuff, but also a lot of China junk on Amazon, so the best bet is to go to a good local auto parts store, or better yet an auto-body repair supply shop, which will likely have it, and may even have rolls of the stuff available cut to length.

This is not anything new, people have been repairing car weatherstripping like this for decades. Up to a few years ago, NAPA and Carquest in the US had a big paper catalog where you could select from various cross-section shapes and sizes of weatherstripping (in different lengths), but the selection is limited now, to mostly rectangular shapes and a few others, but you can make it work. It won't look pretty when you open the door or trunk, but it will seal out rain if done carefully.

It does take some patient careful cutting, and then glueing with the special Permatex or 3M weatherstrip adhesive to make sure it seals the to the metal and remaining good weatherstripping. I have repaired my door weatherstripping this way a few tiems, since finding junkyard donor cars is difficult these days and the remaining new-old-stock stuff on ebay in the US is overpriced. Another possibility though is using weatherstripping with a similar cross-section from any other junkjard donor car and glueing in a patch section. Using stuff like RTV, Shoe Goo, or similar to make repairs to weatherstripping doesn't work very well since it doesn't seem to last; your best bet is to fit the repair sections and glue them to the metal and intact weatherstripping with the special weatherstrip adhesive.

As far as windshield and rear glass rubber seals, a good specialty auto glass shop may be able to improvise with the various seals they have available (comes on rolls also). After all, they can still get glass for many older cars and have to seal it. The guys that do mobile glass repair obviously won't have much of a selection, you have to take the car to a shop.

The hardest things to repair are the seals and trim below the roll down side glass, though I am improvising the rubber trim pieces on those with some cut and shaped body side moulding (tedious with Dremel). The part that "wipes" on the glass as it goes up and down might be able to be improvised somehow from a different donor car, but thankfully those are still good on my car.

 

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.... I bought a special tool to cut the rear window seal loose from the car. Then I cut the rear windows out of the junk yard car and my car (that was a giant pain in the butt to do). Then I had the car painted with no rear window in it. After the car was painted, I took it to a glass shop with very good reputation and had them install the glass with the good molding that I got from the junk yard - it was a risk because if they had done a sloppy job, it would have been some cost and a lot of trouble for no gain. They did a perfect job - it looked factory. But, as you already said: no more cars in the junk yard.
I am curious if the glass shop told you that they could no longer get the glass for your car, or could not get the windshield seal that they would need. I was told by a good local shop that 1st and 2nd Gen LH glass was still available from some suplliers (there are several), and they had a large number of rubber windshield seal cross-sections to choose from (since there are so many OEM shapes). But I haven't had them try to actually order the glass yet to confirm this. Sometimes suppliers have things listed, but you don't find out that it is no longer in stock untill you place an order. I just have a small 6" crack on the side of my windshield that was previously repaired with the UV-cured windshield resin (does work for short cracks), but it is on my list to replace.
 

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I am curious if the glass shop told you that they could no longer get the glass for your car, or could not get the windshield seal that they would need. I was told by a good local shop that 1st and 2nd Gen LH glass was still available from some suplliers (there are several), and they had a large number of rubber windshield seal cross-sections to choose from (since there are so many OEM shapes). But I haven't had them try to actually order the glass yet to confirm this. Sometimes suppliers have things listed, but you don't find out that it is no longer in stock untill you place an order. I just have a small 6" crack on the side of my windshield that was previously repaired with the UV-cured windshield resin (does work for short cracks), but it is on my list to replace.
I don't know the answers to your questions, but am including the following info. in case there might be something useful in it:

I didn't check into details of buying the back glass since prices I had seen on it were ridiculous - like $400-$600 ridiculous (that was around 2011 and prior). The rear glass comes with the rubber molding (the trim around the perimeter of the glass that a person looking at the car sees) molded to it for these cars - molding not available separately. Pretty sure that is true for OEM and aftermarket on these cars. I think it also includes a thick rubber base on the underside of the glass that gets glued to the car with the black urethane adhesive - the only thing the installer would provide is the adhesive.

The Chrysler parts pdf (2002, should be similar for other years) shows spacers for the back glass. Perhaps there is no rubber seal attached to the underside of the glass, and the installer supplies a s**tload of urethane adhesive:
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting White Motor vehicle Hood
Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Brand



As for the windshield, I don't think I ever checked into price, availability, or seal details of that - never had any chipping or cracks, though I thought about replacing the windshield on my '99 Concorde that had really bad sun glare from it having a bad case of windshield sand blast pitting after 250k+ miles of highway travel. I think the windshield also comes with a rubber seal molded to the underside of the glass, and the installer adds urethane adhesive. Again, I could be wrong about a molded seal being included with the glass.

From parts pdf, same on windshield - spacers, and maybe no attached underside rubber seal, just a bunch of urethane adhesive supplied by the installer?:
Gesture Rectangle Sleeve Slope Automotive exterior
Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Circle



Sorry I can't fully answer your questions on that. Perhaps someone who knows will come along and answer.

EDIT: I did also consider replacing the windshield on my '98 Concorde as it had a ripple and a very annoying visual distortion near the bottom edge. Alas, I never replaced the windshield on either car, and both are long gone.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
See my response in the thread at the bottom here if you are talking about the firm rubbery gasket material.

You can repair weatherstripping sections with good quality generic door/trunk auto weatherstripping from the parts stores. It is closed-cell firm stuff in various cross section shapes (not the squishy open-cell stuff). I believe there are still a few companies that make quality stuff, but also a lot of China junk on Amazon, so the best bet is to go to a good local auto parts store, or better yet an auto-body repair supply shop, which will likely have it, and may even have rolls of the stuff available cut to length.

This is not anything new, people have been repairing car weatherstripping like this for decades. Up to a few years ago, NAPA and Carquest in the US had a big paper catalog where you could select from various cross-section shapes and sizes of weatherstripping (in different lengths), but the selection is limited now, to mostly rectangular shapes and a few others, but you can make it work. It won't look pretty when you open the door or trunk, but it will seal out rain if done carefully.

It does take some patient careful cutting, and then glueing with the special Permatex or 3M weatherstrip adhesive to make sure it seals the to the metal and remaining good weatherstripping. I have repaired my door weatherstripping this way a few tiems, since finding junkyard donor cars is difficult these days and the remaining new-old-stock stuff on ebay in the US is overpriced. Another possibility though is using weatherstripping with a similar cross-section from any other junkjard donor car and glueing in a patch section. Using stuff like RTV, Shoe Goo, or similar to make repairs to weatherstripping doesn't work very well since it doesn't seem to last; your best bet is to fit the repair sections and glue them to the metal and intact weatherstripping with the special weatherstrip adhesive.

As far as windshield and rear glass rubber seals, a good specialty auto glass shop may be able to improvise with the various seals they have available (comes on rolls also). After all, they can still get glass for many older cars and have to seal it. The guys that do mobile glass repair obviously won't have much of a selection, you have to take the car to a shop.

The hardest things to repair are the seals and trim below the roll down side glass, though I am improvising the rubber trim pieces on those with some cut and shaped body side moulding (tedious with Dremel). The part that "wipes" on the glass as it goes up and down might be able to be improvised somehow from a different donor car, but thankfully those are still good on my car.


Holy crap you are brilliant ....wow ,I never thought to cut the tube from the metal that sits on the body of the car and glue another tube .I'm going to look around for the tube that's similar in diameter and shape with what we have on our cars and see if I can fix this. I do care very much about how it looks when I open the door...the details on my cars trigger me like the pronouns folks get triggered ...I just throw money left and right to fix my stuff ,ain't burning buildings ...yet lol

The thing I don't understand is that the seal I got from a Concorde (the one cut in the middle from factory) and side that overlaps over the plastics is made from a hard plastic itself and somehow that thing is shorter . How can metal and plastic get shorter ...I understand rubber but where is the metal going is beyond my power to understand this crap.I will add two pics to see what I mean. I kept it because I can use the front door seals that are shorter on the back doors since the length should be enough. The front doors are the problem.

Man I live in Romania which has the same climate kinda like New York ,maybe abit warmer but the seals are drying out like crazy and believe me I put the best crap I find to keep them soft. Don't even start with the cracked dash....I will fix that soon by wrapping the dash in leather the same color and texture like factory ,I already ordered the leather . Yes I know "but the passenger side air bags" ....air bags are for pussies lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
@peva
I bought a paper part catalog for my collection from ebay but its still on its way to me. Do you have any idea where to get the pdf one. I got the paper one for my OCD to complete my collection ,but it seems there's good info in it other than "having it" lol
 

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Is your interior all black and your weatherstripping is all black too? 300m that had the Light Taupe interior got two color weatherstripping. Black facing the outside and Light Taupe facing the inside. I've got all 4 of Black/Light Taupe weatherstripping in excellent condition sitting in storage.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is your interior all black and your weatherstripping is all black too? 300m that had the Light Taupe interior got two color weatherstripping. Black facing the outside and Light Taupe facing the inside. I've got all 4 of Black/Light Taupe weatherstripping in excellent condition sitting in storage.
My 99 came from factory with black weatherstripping ,rubber only ,one piece ,its not cut in the middle. What i got from the Concorde is the version that's cut in the middle and its abit different ,the side that overlaps is thicker and it doesn't fit well under the plastic that goes over it on the bottom side ...but that's not the issue ,the issue is I need a set to look all the same ,color is the last problem . Man how much you want for it if its for sale lol . If I buy it from you and gets here before my parts catalog I will personally go US to slap that mexican muchacho guy that sold me the catalog on ebay lol

I don't know how light taupe looks but to be honest i don't care. Anything is better than what I got. The driver side is torn and glued and glued and glued...it has so much glue its more glue than weatherstripping. Each time I put some 3M tube inside it to seal better but man its a mix of glue and tube that still makes noise when going over 60.
 

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All the upper plastic trim in your pictures on the A/B/C pillars is Light Taupe. Picture all the lower plastic trim pieces in your car that are black changed to Light Taupe and that's what the interior of my Special looks like. Along with the weatherstripping I have in storage to match.

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Gear shift Steering wheel



Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Car seat cover Seat belt
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The one from Concorde looks like yours ,it just has a plastic that's grey/black over the rubber. In some areas it peels off. That's not an issue with the one I got ,its that's too short....and I only got 1 driver side and it kinda ruins the scheme because if they are all the same it works ,but its too obvious .I think the 99 weatherstripping is better because it can be pulled back to its original size if you keep spraying silicone over it.

Still have no idea where the missing plastic and metal went lol
 

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Which year pdf do you need? I can provide it to you if you PM me your email address (will FTP it and notify you by email).

BTW - I am in discussion with the forum administrator to see if they will agree to host all year FSM and parts pdf's in special threads again. Used to be that way, at least for the smaller parts pdf files, but all got lost last time we changed forum host. Hope to have their answer on that in a few days. As it is, they have a file size limit for us to attach files, and if members host it on external sites, that's only good as long as that member is around and the hosting site stays up, so in general, they're not available from one year to the next.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Which year pdf do you need? I can provide it to you if you PM me your email address (will FTP it and notify you by email).

BTW - I am in discussion with the forum administrator to see if they will agree to host all year FSM and parts pdf's in special threads again. Used to be that way, at least for the smaller parts pdf files, but all got lost last time we changed forum host. Hope to have their answer on that in a few days. As it is, they have a file size limit for us to attach files, and if members host it on external sites, that's only good as long as that member is around and the hosting site stays up, so in general, they're not available from one year to the next.
It doesn't matter....I got a 99 but a parts catalog is good even if its a newer version. Main parts are pretty much the same. Thank you in advance ...I'd still love to see one day that dealer catalog with chapters and everything branded Mopar . I will send you my emails.
 

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It doesn't matter....I got a 99 but a parts catalog is good even if its a newer version. Main parts are pretty much the same. Thank you in advance ...I'd still love to see one day that dealer catalog with chapters and everything branded Mopar . I will send you my emails.
I had torgotten that Ron re-uploaded the parts pdf files in 2019. I just checked, and they still work: 2nd Gen Parts Catalog

The FSM files are larger than the size limit for the forum. If they let us, I'd like to also upload the FSM files.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had torgotten that Ron re-uploaded the parts pdf files in 2019. I just checked, and they still work: 2nd Gen Parts Catalog

The FSM files are larger than the size limit for the forum. If they let us, I'd like to also upload the FSM files.
I'm printing it as I write this. Its been a month since I paid for the real parts catalog...still waiting for it lol
I already have the FSM ,its 54Mb in size as PDF or about 5kg in paper in real life😁 ,got that too and same thing with that....till I got it I printed it .I slowly get close to 2 tons of paper for a 2 ton car....

Its funny you can find a DRB III tool on ebay or even Remi's DRB III little software but you can't find a set of weatherstripping for sale on the internet...kinda takes the fun out of having a cool old car (and yes I know in US they are not "cool" but in Europe these cars are exotic asf) .To get an idea how rare Concordes/LHS are ,a friend from US that works here at a US army base had a white 98 LHS and some dude stared at it while driving and hit it from behind .That LHS got totaled but good thing about it was I got it for free for parts. He has a 89 Camaro now ...don't want to jinx it but I got a 88 Firebird too lol
 

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Holy crap you are brilliant ....wow ,I never thought to cut the tube from the metal that sits on the body of the car and glue another tube .I'm going to look around for the tube that's similar in diameter and shape with what we have on our cars and see if I can fix this. I do care very much about how it looks when I open the door...the details on my cars trigger me like the pronouns folks get triggered ...I just throw money left and right to fix my stuff ,ain't burning buildings ...yet lol......
Sorry, but like I said, glueing in replacement weatherstripping, either the generic kind or what you get from a different junkyard car is not going to look pretty when you open the doors or trunk. It is just meant as a jury-rig fix when you can no longer get the factory weatherstripping or a junkyard match. Like I wrote in the post on the other thread, you've also got to use the black 3M or Permatex regular or "super" (stronger) weatherstripp adhesive. They also have yellow for some reason which looks bad.

I don't know about the other issue since I've got a 1st Gen, but they also had a weird problem with the door weatherstripping being too short, and there was a TSB about putting in some sort of a clip to stretch it. I just wound up cutting it and putting in a splice piece of the generic weatherstripping. Again, it aint gonna look pretty, and I'm obsessive about stuff too. But no one's gonna see it with the door and trunk closed, and you've got to keep out the rain.

I feel for you though outside the US, because the only place I've been able to get NOS Mopar parts at a reasonable price is off US ebay, and some of them don't ship international. The remaining online Mopar parts stores here are usually very expensive for the stuff they still have in stock for LH cars except for small hardware parts. You can still get aftermarket mechanical/electrical parts from the auto parts stores, but for body parts the few remaining cars in junkyards here are the best source. The older a car gets, the more jury-rigged stuff you have to do, unless it is a classic car where most body parts are still made by the aftermarket.
 
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