draining fuel tank.

9812 Views 19 Replies 9 Participants Last post by zerokool, 2 mo ago

zerokool

Discussion Starter · Jun 18, 2012

how do i do this.

14 month old fuel has to go.

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

krazybob738

· #2 · Jun 18, 2012

ok well if you have an intrepid there should be a little white or black plug in the drivers side of the tank remove this plug and the gas should drain out if your tank doesnt have this plug you could remove the fuel line from the fuel rail and cycle the key off and on untill all the fuel is out (very time consuming) or you could feed 12v straight to the fuel pump and fill gas cans with your old fuel thats what i did good luck

tgs

· #3 · Jun 18, 2012

Check out this thread.
The solution is mostly on the second page.

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=184431

Adpros

· #4 · Jun 19, 2012

Not sure about your area but 14 month old gas doesn't sound too bad. I was told by a Standard, (Now mostly BP), station owner that their gas carries a 36 month guarantee.

Since then, I have not done any pumping out of old gas unless I absolutely know it's older than 3 years. Yeah, it might smell a bit stale but, adding and mixing fresh stuff at the tank has not resulted in any failures to date.:neutral:

micholob

· #5 · Jun 19, 2012

14 month gas should be fine.

If it's running you can pump it out via the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. On my parts car I used an AC charging hose to connect to it and pumped it out as it ran. Didn't take long. You could also use a jumper wire on the fuel relay to do it without the engine running.

bh1992

· #6 · Jun 19, 2012

how much of that 14 month old gas do you have in the tank?

zerokool

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jun 19, 2012 (Edited)

krazybob738 said:
ok well if you have an intrepid there should be a little white or black plug in the drivers side of the tank remove this plug and the gas should drain out if your tank doesnt have this plug you could remove the fuel line from the fuel rail and cycle the key off and on untill all the fuel is out (very time consuming) or you could feed 12v straight to the fuel pump and fill gas cans with your old fuel thats what i did good luck

sorry 02-conc

tgs said:
Check out this thread.
The solution is mostly on the second page.

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=184431

that's a good read!!

bh1992 said:
how much of that 14 month old gas do you have in the tank?

about 1/8 a tank.

im really supprised that the gas is prob okay, wouldnt i want to drain it as precaution?

it wont be running for a few more months atleast, probably 6 with what i want to do...

its been in a garage for 6 months and its 110+ everyday. not sure if that matters.

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peva

· #8 · Jun 19, 2012

Adpros said:
Not sure about your area but 14 month old gas doesn't sound too bad. I was told by a Standard, (Now mostly BP), station owner that their gas carries a 36 month guarantee...

micholob said:
14 month gas should be fine...

My experience is that most small engines (chain saws, weed eaters, push-type lawnmowers) wouldn't run worth a darn on it if at all. But for some reason, car engines seem a lot more tolerant of old gasoline. So what you're saying is get what you can out (runnning the fuel pump), but don't worry about every last drop, so it gets diluted when you do fill the tank. I agree with putting Sea Foam or MMO in the first few tanks of fuel run thru it.

Firem

· #9 · Jun 20, 2012

FWIW when I finally got my Pro Am rehab project done the gas was at least 14 months old. Half tank worth. The Special that I parted out had a quarter tank of 12 month old gas.
Dumped the gas out of the Special into the Pro Am, drove it till the light came on, fueled it up and have been driving it ever since. No additives, no problem.
Modern automotive fuel systems sealed, would take years for gas to evaporate and become stale. Power equipment with vented caps, a few months and the gas is toast.

peva

· #10 · Jun 20, 2012

peva said:
My experience is that most small engines (chain saws, weed eaters, push-type lawnmowers) wouldn't run worth a darn on it if at all. But for some reason, car engines seem a lot more tolerant of old gasoline...

Firem said:
...Modern automotive fuel systems sealed, would take years for gas to evaporate and become stale. Power equipment with vented caps, a few months and the gas is toast.

Finally - I get an explanation to that mystery. Thanks, Bob!

DIbox

· #11 · 2 mo ago

Reviving an old thread here. I have read it and the (great) linked info. No plug on my '04 Trep so I plan to hotwire the fuel pump but I can't seem to find a good place to disconnect the fuel line. I see two solid lines under the car beneath the back seat that run up beside the fuel tank. Are these the fuel (&return) line? They run up to the front but are less accessible when about under the front seat. I do not see or feel any kind of junction under there. Am I on track? Where's the easiest place to squirt the gas from?
Thanks.

peva

· #12 · 2 mo ago

DIbox said:
Reviving an old thread here. I have read it and the (great) linked info. No plug on my '04 Trep so I plan to hotwire the fuel pump but I can't seem to find a good place to disconnect the fuel line. I see two solid lines under the car beneath the back seat that run up beside the fuel tank. Are these the fuel (&return) line? They run up to the front but are less accessible when about under the front seat. I do not see or feel any kind of junction under there. Am I on track? Where's the easiest place to squirt the gas from?
Thanks.

Read post #19 in that linked thread (Five year old gas in tank...) - it tells how to jumper the fuel pump relay socket to force the fuel pump to run.

There are no fuel return lines on these cars - only the line supplying fuel to the engine's fuel rail. (The only fuel return is the fuel pressure regulator outlet, which is built into the fuel pump assembly, which is located in the top of the fuel tank - so that return loop never leaves the fuel tank.) The two solid lines you saw are likely the metal rear brake lines on the driver's side of the car. While you're thinking about it, visually inspect them for heavy corrosion pitting, especially just before where they bend upwards forward of the driver's side rear wheel. More than one person here had one of those lines rupture - not something you want to have happen - happened on both of my Concordes.

There is a disconnect fitting where the fuel supply line connects to the fuel rail at the back of the engine. Careful with the plastic supply line - it is plastic and has been known to spontaneously crack between the fire wall and the engine - just above exhaust pipes. 🫣 (I'm full of good news, aren't I.) 😬

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peva

· #13 · 2 mo ago

Looks like you want to get it running just long enough to get her to the junk yard?:

www.dodgeintrepid.net

'04 Intrepid 2.7L for sale - white 129K miles -...

What wrong: -Needs radiator replacement and transmission flush. Newly installed radiator failed (internally) causing coolant to mix with transmission fluid. -RR window does not work. What's right: -Everything else works. -Just completed state emissions/safety inspection. -Ran good when...

www.dodgeintrepid.net

www.dodgeintrepid.net

👍

DIbox

· #14 · 2 mo ago

peva said:
Looks like you want to get it running just long enough to get her to the junk yard?:

'04 Intrepid 2.7L for sale - white 129K miles -...

What wrong: -Needs radiator replacement and transmission flush. Newly installed radiator failed (internally) causing coolant to mix with transmission fluid. -RR window does not work. What's right: -Everything else works. -Just completed state emissions/safety inspection. -Ran good when...

www.dodgeintrepid.net

👍

Thanks Peva. Yes the car will likely be junked, has 3/4 tank of fresh gas and I'm cheap. The junkyard will collect car and pay more if they can hear it start and it moves under its own power, so I'll leave a little fuel in it. They don't pay extra for a full tank.

I'm comfortable with the relay bypass to run the pump, just scratching my head over the plumbing. The car is on level ground and visibility underneath is very limited. The lines I found are likely brakes as you mention. I figured the fuel line would be similar (maybe a little bigger dia.) and mounted in a protected location, making it hard to see.

I'll see if I can find the line somewhere around the throttle body. I thought I found it before but it turned out to be some PCV plumbing. Is the fuel line location you mention shown in the picture in this thread?

www.dodgeintrepid.net

Fuel leak

Hello, new to the group. I have a fuel leak on my 2002 intrepid 2.7. It’s by the motor, doesn’t leak all the time, but it definitely lets me know when it does. Here is a pic. It is the part that I’d circled. Hopefully a simple fix. Thanks I’m advance.

www.dodgeintrepid.net

www.dodgeintrepid.net

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peva

· #15 · 2 mo ago

DIbox said:
Thanks Peva. Yes the car will likely be junked, has 3/4 tank of fresh gas and I'm cheap. The junkyard will collect car and pay more if they can hear it start and it moves under its own power, so I'll leave a little fuel in it. They don't pay extra for a full tank.

I'm comfortable with the relay bypass to run the pump, just scratching my head over the plumbing. The car is on level ground and visibility underneath is very limited. The lines I found are likely brakes as you mention. I figured the fuel line would be similar (maybe a little bigger dia.) and mounted in a protected location, making it hard to see.

I'll see if I can find the line somewhere around the throttle body. I thought I found it before but it turned out to be some PCV plumbing. Is the fuel line location you mention shown in the picture in this thread?

Fuel leak

Hello, new to the group. I have a fuel leak on my 2002 intrepid 2.7. It’s by the motor, doesn’t leak all the time, but it definitely lets me know when it does. Here is a pic. It is the part that I’d circled. Hopefully a simple fix. Thanks I’m advance.

www.dodgeintrepid.net

Below is the photo from that other thread you linked. I circled the fuel supply hose disconnect in yellow.

Tire Automotive tire Automotive fuel system Tread Motor vehicle

This figure is from the '04 FSM:

Hand Gesture Thumb Creative arts Elbow

Regarding fuel in the tank when you take it to the salvage yard, the yards here told me that by federal law they are required to drain any fuel out of any cars brought in and punch a hole in the fuel tank. If you have fuel in the tsnk when they buy the car from you, they charge something like $50 for them to drain the fuel out before punching the hole (they're not allowed to just punch the hole and let the fuel flow out onto the ground - it has to be collected and properly disposed of). I guess whether they charge you or how much they charge you is up to the salvage yard.

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DIbox

· #16 · 2 mo ago

Thanks peva. The connector diagram is great. I'm still having a hard time finding the fuel line. The picture in the linked post looks a little different that what I have. In my picture, is the fuel line the one with the arrow pointing to it? I know the other line is PCV which goes to the threaded fitting and the heat exchanger going the other way. I arrowed line is a rubber hose coming up behind the motor which changes to the hard plastic line shown in the picture. The rubber elbow thing is not a very tight fit and I'd guess this is almost like a vaccum line. Wouldn't stand up to much fuel pressure. More likely I'm looking at the wrong lines(s)?

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peva

· #17 · 2 mo ago

DIbox said:
Thanks peva. The connector diagram is great. I'm still having a hard time finding the fuel line. The picture in the linked post looks a little different that what I have. In my picture, is the fuel line the one with the arrow pointing to it? I know the other line is PCV which goes to the threaded fitting and the heat exchanger going the other way. I arrowed line is a rubber hose coming up behind the motor which changes to the hard plastic line shown in the picture. The rubber elbow thing is not a very tight fit and I'd guess this is almost like a vaccum line. Wouldn't stand up to much fuel pressure. More likely I'm looking at the wrong lines(s)?

Your arrow is pointing to a vacuum line coming off that elbow plugged into the plenum, forward of the center of the throttle body - fuel line is not visible in that photo.

Fuel supply line-to-fuel rail connector is between the rear of the engine and the firewall (more or less centered left-to-right) - see illustration below. I don't have my Concordes anymore to look at, but there's lots of stuff - wires, hoses, etc. - blocking your view and hand access - very crowded area. Probably need to remove the windshield cowl, left-to-right strut tower brace, and windshield wiper assembly to see it well and get to it.

(from parts pdf - connector on end of fuel supply line - magenta circle; inlet to fuel rail that the connector plugs into - orange circle)

Head Hand Arm Product Human body

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DIbox

· #18 · 2 mo ago

So I found something that looks close to that diagram. Connector is not visible in picture it's below the elbox. There's metal line coming to the connector. Changes to a flex line at elbox, then goes over to what looks like a fuel pressure regulator?

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peva

· #19 · 2 mo ago

DIbox said:
So I found something that looks close to that diagram. Connector is not visible in picture it's below the elbox. There's metal line coming to the connector. Changes to a flex line at elbox, then goes over to what looks like a fuel pressure regulator?

That's the evaporative emissions system purge solenoid. The only fuel pressure regulator is in the fuel tank, built into the fuel pump assembly.

zerokool

Discussion Starter · #20 · 2 mo ago

DIbox said:
So I found something that looks close to that diagram. Connector is not visible in picture it's below the elbox. There's metal line coming to the connector. Changes to a flex line at elbox, then goes over to what looks like a fuel pressure regulator?

the lines are hugging the back of the engine.. they run up the bottom of the firewall.. they are aluminum untill the end where the black piece is bonded to the pipe. not sure if this helps

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