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Discussion Starter #1
Hello again everyone,

When redoing the front suspension of my 03 SXT we noticed the bearing around the driver side stub shaft appears to be damaged, you are able to see the ball bearings and some appear to be missing. Reading through the 02 FSM it would seem like the driver side stub shaft should come right out after removing the snap ring. I am aware it does say to remove the trans from the car but if possible I would prefer to not have to do so. So is there anything else that would be holding the long stub shaft in the trans after removing the snap ring? We have tried putting the transmission in neutral as that is required by the short stub shaft removal procedure to rule out all obvious options.

Thanks!
Joe G.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Where did the Balls from the bearing go?

Got any pictures you can post?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not entirely sure where they went, I imagine they fell out onto the road at one point. I haven't gotten a good enough look at the bearing to see if anything is missing but my dad seemed to believe there was some gone. Right now its soaked in penetration fluid as the usual half shaft problem is also occurring, but that's a different story. Ill go wipe it off and grab some pictures if possible and post them in just a few moments.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Not to bump my own thread so quickly but sadly I am a bit limited on time with this. Does anyone have any ideas if the stub shaft will come out with the trans in the car after removing the retaining clip?
 

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The snap ring is on the stub shaft to secure the Half-Shaft (Axle) to the stub shaft is it not? Other than that why is that snap ring involved with pulling the stub shaft? The FSM talks about having to remove that snap ring to remove the stub shaft bearing once it's removed from the transaxle. Is that where you're confusion is?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right, sorry the snap ring is removed from the stub shaft after pulling it from the transaxle but before removing the bearing as it seems to hold the bearing in place on the shaft. Flipped the order around when initially posting that, my bad. So far we have tried pulling the stub shaft using a slide hammer as well as a Hydraulic Ram Kit and it does not seem to want to release so we can replace the bearing. It would seem as if something else is keeping the stub shaft locked into place other than pure friction as the FSM seems to indicate. That is more where I am confused as it seems like it should just pull right out with enough force. The ram kit is 10 tons and we don't want to go yanking on the stub shaft too much for fear of damaging anything.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Rebuilt or Replacement Used Transmission might be in your future!

There are threads talking about the difficulty of removing the half shafts alone with slide hammers. A few on removing the Stub Shafts that are difficult also.

Using a Ram vs a Slide Hammer shouldn't be considered. The Slide Hammer would be the action required to start the removal due to the impact.

Consider the time you already have invested and more where you could've bought a low mileage transmission or rebuilt unit and swapped it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had seen the ones on the half shafts being difficult, didn't see any on the stub shafts but it is certainly proving to be a pain. Sadly I do not currently have the money or tools to put a transmission in the car, I was just hoping to "get it working" till I can afford it. It has certainly been on the todo list since purchasing the car though. Thank you for your time though, i do appreciate it.
 

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You've got the Specialty tools to remove the half shaft and attempt the Stub Shaft removal but don't have regular hand tools to remove the transmission? Slide Hammer, Hydraulic Ram? What did you use to remove the axle nut on the half shaft? An impact wrench and air compressor?

Have you checked car-part.com for a used transmission in your area? Might be cheaper than you think?

I'm guessing you've had the car for an extended period of time and haven't had any issues from the transmission at all? Or there's some problem now that just happened to pop up at the same time as your suspension work?

If you don't have the budget for a real repair, then put it back together and run it until it breaks!
 

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No real easy fix for this.

First off, you need a couple special tools to remove the cross shaft. One of them:

https://www.toolsource.com/drive-shaft-u-joint-c-1321_119_125/chrysler-long-stub-shaft-remover-42le-p-111018.html?sourceid=googleps&gclid=CjwKCAiAlvnfBRA1EiwAVOEgfM_oElrnchldvg6IX8ILT2AH9nPVKbB9ZeCR0qZBgX5kbteZiyrEhxoCim0QAvD_BwE

Plus a slide hammer.

From the FSM:

CAUTION: The differential bearings and the differential
adjusters must be reused in order to use this
procedure. If any of the items listed above require
replacement, this procedure cannot be used. Refer
to Differential Recondition section of this manual.


(1) Remove transaxle from vehicle. Refer to Transaxle
Removal and Installation procedure in this section.
(2) Remove long stub shaft from transaxle (Fig.
110).
To replace the long stub shaft bearing, install stub
shaft in soft-jawed vise. Remove the stub shaft bearing
C-clip (Fig. 111). Install bearing splitter onto the
shaft. Install Special Tool # P-334 under the bearing.
Using a shop press, remove the bearing from the
stub shaft (Fig. 112).
To install the stub shaft bearing, position new
bearing onto the stub shaft. Install stub shaft into
shop press. Position Special Tool # 6558 above bearing.
Press bearing onto shaft (Fig. 113).
(3) Index the inner differential adjuster with a
cross hair as shown in (Fig. 114).

CAUTION: If short stub shaft has corrosion, use
caution when removing differential cover. Inspect
seal and shaft for damage after removal of cover.
Replace shaft and/or seal as required.


(4) Index outer adjuster (Fig. 115). Remove lock
bracket and back out adjuster exactly one revolution.
Then remove differential cover.
(5) Remove The inner adjuster lock bracket. Then
remove the inner adjuster.
CAUTION: Keep the inner adjuster for reinstallation.
(6) Lube inner adjuster threads with gear oil and
reinstall to the cross haired index marks.
(7) Install the differential carrier. Then install
stub shaft seal protector.
(8) Install the differential cover/outer adjuster
assembly with sealant applied. Install and tighten
differential cover bolts.
(9) Tighten the outer adjuster 3/4 of a turn. Seat
bearings by turning differential carrier three or four
turns in both directions. Finish tightening the
adjuster 1/4 turn to its index mark (original location).
(10) Reinstall long stub shaft, fill differential with
fluid and reinstall transaxle.
(11) After installing transaxle check transmission
side fluid level.


It does not seem possible with the trans in the vehicle. Looks like you need to adjust the shaft end play etc. I'm not entirely sure as I've never done this one myself. By the time you buy the tools to remove the shaft, and all the mess, just rebuild the transmission and be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
My dad is a heavy equipment mechanic but we have no real way to get the car high enough off the ground to drop it out easily imo. I know its doable with some 3-ton jacks and jack stands from my research but I am not sure I want to take that risk and have it partly apart to not be able to finish it as we are already down a car due to a timing failure in an interference engine (2.2l GM Ecotec in a Saturn Vue). So the fact we are down my car as well is a large hindrance atm as it wasn't planned to pull the stub shaft or cut suspension parts off the car. I have had the car since 6/18/2017 and the trans has been nothing but problems, typical limp mode shift solenoid issue (replaced already), seems to slip when transitioning between 1st and 2nd but only if putting around, if you get on it it's fine oddly enough. But we noticed the bearing looked to be a problem so we hoped it would come more easily than this so as to avoid having to do a transmission soon. We are going to likely cut whats left of the half-shaft off tonight and throw it back together and call it done for now honestly.

@Daytrepper I have read that section several times and, unless I am misunderstanding, the bearing that is on the stub shaft isn't actually a differential bearing, the manual calls is a "Stub Shaft Bearing". Of course naming doesn't necessarily mean anything but its not referenced anywhere for actual adjustment unless I have missed it. The manual seems somewhat contradictory with the long stub shaft instructions as it references the outer adjuster which is only on the passenger side and even references the short sub shaft in some of the cautions for the removal of the long stub shaft. That portion of the manual honestly looks like a crappy copy and paste with some basic search and replace done to replace short with long. It also refers to the "Differential Recondition section" which doesn't appear to be anywhere (I can assume its just follow the dissassembly/resassembly of the differential but put in new parts). But either way, it does not appear like it is going to be easy to remove so, hopefully, I can just convince my dad to leave the sub shaft be and deal with it another time by just replacing the transmission. Hopefully this spring or summer time when the Vue is hopefully running again.
 
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