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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. Been forever since I last posted.

I went about doing my first rotor and brake change recently and when it came to the rotors and brakes, there wasn't really any problems and it all went fine. However, when it came to the E-Brake I've had some issues and wanted to get some help and clear some stuff up.

So when I first accessed the rear rotors, when you spun them you'd have free movement for about 50% of a turn and then you'd hear/feel some drag for a portion and then it would be free movement again, over and over. Both sides were like this. However, I then read somewhere on these forums that this isn't ideal as it means the pads are touching inside of the rotor and they can heat up and fail.

As such, I put some lug-nuts on the rotor to keep it firmly in place and then started to spin it, reducing and adding tension until I set it just a step before I'd feel any sort of drag. Afterwards, I put the car in reverse, slowly applied the E-Brake and heard the nasty sounding 'sproing' of the auto tensioner I'd read about.

However, after returning from a test ride, I parked on an incline, threw it in neutral with the E-Brake on and immediately it, albeit slowly, started to slide forward. I had to press the E-Brake to the floor in order to get the car to stop.

So, obviously, there isn't enough tension.

So my question is, is there supposed to be a 'light' drag? Some videos showed adding tension until the rotor stayed in place without lug-nuts, but when I did that I'd feel intermittent dragging as I spun the rotor.

What's the correct amount of 'drag' and 'tension' for this? Thankfully I don't have any place in my daily routine that requires the E-Brake, but I'd still like to get it set correctly at some point.

Thanks everyone.
 
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