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His symptom is that there's a popping noise as the steering wheel is turned with the car sitting still. Inner tie rod bushings would cause a noise if a wheel goes into oscillation due to play in inner tie rod bushings - only at road speed - but would not cause a popping noise with the car sitting still.

But good suggestion on replacing the inner tie rod bushings if they've never been done.

You are correct. The top nut and the strut rod are supposed to be stationary (with the mount and the stationary part of the bearing). If the rod and top nut are turning with the wheel/strut housing but the plate that the nut clamps to is stationary, then the nut needs tightening, but if the plate rotates with the nut and rod, the rubber that attaches the plate to the mount body is detached or torn, in which case you need a new mount too. My guess is that the nut is loose. Neither a loose top nut or bad mount rubber would be causing your popping noise. (You could have two problems: Bad strut bearing and bad mount rubber, or it may be bad strut bearing and loose top nut.) Of course installing a quick strut would eliminate any uncertainty about the mount rubber being bad.
Great!

My car made a popping noise sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded. Replaced the inner tie rod bushings and it went away. Sorry I was wrong, I mean I guess my suggestions suck. I guess being a parts advisor and technician at Chrysler dealerships for the past 20 years means nothing, I guess fixing a car or 2 in your driveway and repeating information you have read off of internet forums makes you the Top Dawg! It's like $20 and a half hour to do inner tie rod bushings, it's an easy thing to eliminate.
Sorry

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Great!

My car made a popping noise sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded. Replaced the inner tie rod bushings and it went away. Sorry I was wrong, I mean I guess my suggestions suck. I guess being a parts advisor and technician at Chrysler dealerships for the past 20 years means nothing, I guess fixing a car or 2 in your driveway and repeating information you have read off of internet forums makes you the Top Dawg! It's like $20 and a half hour to do inner tie rod bushings, it's an easy thing to eliminate.
Sorry

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You have a nice day. 👍
 

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Great!

My car made a popping noise sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded. Replaced the inner tie rod bushings and it went away. Sorry I was wrong, I mean I guess my suggestions suck. I guess being a parts advisor and technician at Chrysler dealerships for the past 20 years means nothing, I guess fixing a car or 2 in your driveway and repeating information you have read off of internet forums makes you the Top Dawg! It's like $20 and a half hour to do inner tie rod bushings, it's an easy thing to eliminate.
Sorry

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Have you considered many other cars have this issue due to a bad strut bearing and/or mounts? Yours just happened to be supposedly inner tie rod bushings in a rare case. Most of the others are due to something within the strut assembly being damaged or extremely worn. I'm surprised you haven't run across those situations due to your parts counter dewd experience!
 

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Have you considered many other cars have this issue due to a bad strut bearing and/or mounts? Yours just happened to be supposedly inner tie rod bushings in a rare case. Most of the others are due to something within the strut assembly being damaged or extremely worn. I'm surprised you haven't run across those situations due to your parts counter dewd experience!
Um I have, in fact a month or so after I did inner tie rod I rebuilt the whole front suspension, complete struts, control arms, outer tie rods, strut rods, rack bushings, poly cradle bushings, etc. I was simply suggesting looking at the inner tie rod bushings, well replacing them, the tie rods connect to the struts on these cars so a noise they make can travel to the struts and sound like a problem there. For an hour of time and $20 or whatever the moog poly split bushings cost it's worth it to myself.

Again I'm sorry peva, you can go back to replacing brake pads in your driveway and repeating information that you have read on internet forums now

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Not sure what your problem is. I learned a lot over the years from this and other forums just like you, but I also contribute from first-hand knowledge. I definitely ain't perfect, but your snarky put-downs are unwarranted. I happen to have worked as a licensed engineer (perhaps you'll want to put me down for that too - I've seen the type, though I wouldn't put you down for working for a dealer) on design projects and issues directly with Ford (Visteon) and GM (Delphi) engineers as a second tier supplier, not that that makes me better than anyone else, so how about dropping the attitude.

And why on earth would you denigrate DIY'ers working on their cars in their driveways, which, BTW, I don't do much anymore of due to age.

I agreed with your idea of replacing the inner tie rod bushings, but the chip on your shoulder kept you from noticing that.
 

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My 95 Concorde has a similar popping sound on the driver's side. It doesn't happen often, but when it does it's only while leaving a parking space or sitting still. I have replaced the following items: loaded struts, strut rod bushings, lower control arms, outer tie rod ends, inner tie rod bushings, rack bushings, sway arm bushings, sway arm links. I have triple checked anything that could be loose. My best guess would be a poorly made strut mount bearing. It is of course a Monroe Quick Strut. Like Ronbo previously mentioned they aren't the best for 2nd gens. Well I guess chalk that up for 1st gens as well. It doesn't affect driving performance at all and I'm sure replacing them is pretty cheap. Just throwing my experiences out there for what it's worth. :cool:
 

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Gabriel or KYB FTW!
 

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My 95 Concorde has a similar popping sound on the driver's side. It doesn't happen often, but when it does it's only while leaving a parking space or sitting still. I have replaced the following items: loaded struts, strut rod bushings, lower control arms, outer tie rod ends, inner tie rod bushings, rack bushings, sway arm bushings, sway arm links. I have triple checked anything that could be loose. My best guess would be a poorly made strut mount bearing. It is of course a Monroe Quick Strut. Like Ronbo previously mentioned they aren't the best for 2nd gens. Well I guess chalk that up for 1st gens as well. It doesn't affect driving performance at all and I'm sure replacing them is pretty cheap. Just throwing my experiences out there for what it's worth. :cool:
i've seen first gens rack trays breaking though the inner fender they were welded to. and a known issue for lower control arm mounts breaking loose.
some of the other possibilities in 1st gens.
 
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