DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

21 - 40 of 41 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,123 Posts
Good luck as you make the necessary improvements.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
His symptom is that there's a popping noise as the steering wheel is turned with the car sitting still. Inner tie rod bushings would cause a noise if a wheel goes into oscillation due to play in inner tie rod bushings - only at road speed - but would not cause a popping noise with the car sitting still.

But good suggestion on replacing the inner tie rod bushings if they've never been done.

You are correct. The top nut and the strut rod are supposed to be stationary (with the mount and the stationary part of the bearing). If the rod and top nut are turning with the wheel/strut housing but the plate that the nut clamps to is stationary, then the nut needs tightening, but if the plate rotates with the nut and rod, the rubber that attaches the plate to the mount body is detached or torn, in which case you need a new mount too. My guess is that the nut is loose. Neither a loose top nut or bad mount rubber would be causing your popping noise. (You could have two problems: Bad strut bearing and bad mount rubber, or it may be bad strut bearing and loose top nut.) Of course installing a quick strut would eliminate any uncertainty about the mount rubber being bad.
Great!

My car made a popping noise sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded. Replaced the inner tie rod bushings and it went away. Sorry I was wrong, I mean I guess my suggestions suck. I guess being a parts advisor and technician at Chrysler dealerships for the past 20 years means nothing, I guess fixing a car or 2 in your driveway and repeating information you have read off of internet forums makes you the Top Dawg! It's like $20 and a half hour to do inner tie rod bushings, it's an easy thing to eliminate.
Sorry

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,123 Posts
Great!

My car made a popping noise sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded. Replaced the inner tie rod bushings and it went away. Sorry I was wrong, I mean I guess my suggestions suck. I guess being a parts advisor and technician at Chrysler dealerships for the past 20 years means nothing, I guess fixing a car or 2 in your driveway and repeating information you have read off of internet forums makes you the Top Dawg! It's like $20 and a half hour to do inner tie rod bushings, it's an easy thing to eliminate.
Sorry

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
You have a nice day. 👍
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ronbo

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
50,751 Posts
Great!

My car made a popping noise sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded. Replaced the inner tie rod bushings and it went away. Sorry I was wrong, I mean I guess my suggestions suck. I guess being a parts advisor and technician at Chrysler dealerships for the past 20 years means nothing, I guess fixing a car or 2 in your driveway and repeating information you have read off of internet forums makes you the Top Dawg! It's like $20 and a half hour to do inner tie rod bushings, it's an easy thing to eliminate.
Sorry

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Have you considered many other cars have this issue due to a bad strut bearing and/or mounts? Yours just happened to be supposedly inner tie rod bushings in a rare case. Most of the others are due to something within the strut assembly being damaged or extremely worn. I'm surprised you haven't run across those situations due to your parts counter dewd experience!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Have you considered many other cars have this issue due to a bad strut bearing and/or mounts? Yours just happened to be supposedly inner tie rod bushings in a rare case. Most of the others are due to something within the strut assembly being damaged or extremely worn. I'm surprised you haven't run across those situations due to your parts counter dewd experience!
Um I have, in fact a month or so after I did inner tie rod I rebuilt the whole front suspension, complete struts, control arms, outer tie rods, strut rods, rack bushings, poly cradle bushings, etc. I was simply suggesting looking at the inner tie rod bushings, well replacing them, the tie rods connect to the struts on these cars so a noise they make can travel to the struts and sound like a problem there. For an hour of time and $20 or whatever the moog poly split bushings cost it's worth it to myself.

Again I'm sorry peva, you can go back to replacing brake pads in your driveway and repeating information that you have read on internet forums now

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,123 Posts
Not sure what your problem is. I learned a lot over the years from this and other forums just like you, but I also contribute from first-hand knowledge. I definitely ain't perfect, but your snarky put-downs are unwarranted. I happen to have worked as a licensed engineer (perhaps you'll want to put me down for that too - I've seen the type, though I wouldn't put you down for working for a dealer) on design projects and issues directly with Ford (Visteon) and GM (Delphi) engineers as a second tier supplier, not that that makes me better than anyone else, so how about dropping the attitude.

And why on earth would you denigrate DIY'ers working on their cars in their driveways, which, BTW, I don't do much anymore of due to age.

I agreed with your idea of replacing the inner tie rod bushings, but the chip on your shoulder kept you from noticing that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
My 95 Concorde has a similar popping sound on the driver's side. It doesn't happen often, but when it does it's only while leaving a parking space or sitting still. I have replaced the following items: loaded struts, strut rod bushings, lower control arms, outer tie rod ends, inner tie rod bushings, rack bushings, sway arm bushings, sway arm links. I have triple checked anything that could be loose. My best guess would be a poorly made strut mount bearing. It is of course a Monroe Quick Strut. Like Ronbo previously mentioned they aren't the best for 2nd gens. Well I guess chalk that up for 1st gens as well. It doesn't affect driving performance at all and I'm sure replacing them is pretty cheap. Just throwing my experiences out there for what it's worth. :cool:
 

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
50,751 Posts
Gabriel or KYB FTW!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lexacocca

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
My 95 Concorde has a similar popping sound on the driver's side. It doesn't happen often, but when it does it's only while leaving a parking space or sitting still. I have replaced the following items: loaded struts, strut rod bushings, lower control arms, outer tie rod ends, inner tie rod bushings, rack bushings, sway arm bushings, sway arm links. I have triple checked anything that could be loose. My best guess would be a poorly made strut mount bearing. It is of course a Monroe Quick Strut. Like Ronbo previously mentioned they aren't the best for 2nd gens. Well I guess chalk that up for 1st gens as well. It doesn't affect driving performance at all and I'm sure replacing them is pretty cheap. Just throwing my experiences out there for what it's worth. :cool:
i've seen first gens rack trays breaking though the inner fender they were welded to. and a known issue for lower control arm mounts breaking loose.
some of the other possibilities in 1st gens.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
So,a belated update.
Took a while,as I replaced my timing belt,waterpump and intake manifold gaskets meanwhile.
Which turned out great,but the joy was shortlived as forementioned front suspension noise is still present.
I did replace the strut mount bearing,it is keeping the strut nut in place now,and whilst disassembling the strut mount,I could find no visual damage to the spring,seat insulator or any related component.
The deep "thump" sound lives on when steering left at standstill with engine idling.Vehicle also seem to be dragging left if I let go of steering wheel at for example 30mph.
I'm at a loss now,as I've also done the control arm bushings,wheel hub bearing and stabilizer bar links are brand new.
I was thinking in the lines of CV joint/axle,but there is no leaking grease or visible rubber penetration.
Anyone got some clue where to look next?
Keep in mind that the vehicle once fell over during a poor jacking attempt,and I think this is where the problem started.
Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
I found this is a common issue with 1st gens. I have replaced every suspension component on my '95 Concorde and the same popping sound you mentioned is still present. Have you tried replacing the steering rack bushings? While it didn't resolve the occasional popping, it did resolve my crooked steering wheel issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I have not tried replacing them,only did a visual inspection to see whether there was much play,does not seem so.Then again,I am not too familiar with said component,so maybe they are indeed bad.I could live with the noise,what irritates is the poor ability for driving in a straight line.
I just noticed you posted earlier in this thread as well,thank you very much for contributing Lexacocca.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
I wonder if a part in the steering column mechanism has failed or shifted, perhaps the coupler? Maybe look into the solenoid control valve on the steering rack if you have a speed-sensitive rack. From personal experience, these cars are a pain to keep aligned and centred despite using original factory equipment and the recommended aftermarket parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
D725U,thank you for contributing.
Actually I do not know whether the steering is speed-sensitive,but I shall take a closer look at the whole steering assembly.
Strange thing is this noise started when the car fell down from a jack,and the steering was never poor before this incident.
I am thinking whether a strut can be damaged internally even though it looks intact visually,or if the sudden impact did bust up my tie rod end.
The sound is much like that of a bad balljoint,only it is provoked by steering left at standstill,no noise whatsoever going over speedbumps etc.
Oh well.
I appreciate all input thus far,thank you guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
So,I decided to try and capture the ruckus on film,the first half or so is just steering softly left and right,the sound is then provoked by hard turning left.If anyone got a minute to listen I would appreciate it.

 

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
50,751 Posts
Put new strut assemblies on and be done with it! sheesh!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
With my 94, I can hear a small knocking sound if I rock the wheel back and forth with the engine idling. Now granted, I still have the original power steering pump assembly and steering column (rack is aftermarket). I would question your strut mounts and bearings as the knocking on your car is far more prevalent. If they are aftermarket, that's your problem. I tried Monroe's when I first replaced my factory strut assembly, and they started knocking after a couple of months. OE is the only way to go and your options are either through eBay or contacting your Chrysler dealer to see if they can get them through vintage parts (no warranty, of course).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Thank you all for advice.
I did an in-depth examination of my inner tie rod bushings,the left one does look sort of compressed compared to the right one,so maybe this is the culprit.
Never imagined such a small rubber component could produce such discomfort.
Found some useful how-to's on the subject,am I right in thinking it will be easier to replace the whole inner rod as a piece?
As in not just the bushing.
Also it seems two wires going from the solenoid control module on the steering gear has been cut a long time ago.
Why would anyone do this,and what are the consequences?
According to my Haynes it has something to do with speed-proportional steering,IF my car has it?:rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
You don't have to remove the whole inner tie rod assembly as the metal is high strength steel and not prone to breaking. If you go with a one-piece bushing, you will have to press it in. Some have had good experiences with the two-piece bushings; I've tried them and they tend to have a shorter lifespan than the one-piece. Of course, YMMV.

As for the solenoid control module, its designed to offer more power assist at lower speeds and less assist at highway speeds. I personally think its a gimmick but it came equipped with most cars with the wheel and handling package.
 
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Top