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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What should I buy? Want it easy when I craw under. I added an oil plug with a valve to make that part easy and less messy - but how about advice for the filter removal.
 

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Buy something like this and a few 3/8" drive extensions of different lengths if you don't already have them.

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Gearwrench may fit better than some brands of that type of filter wrench, but a lot of the ones from the auto parts store don't fit the filter flutes tightly enough to grip without slipping when enough torques is applied to break the filter loose (not sure if the problem is the filters from some manufacturers or the wrench). When that is a problem, the strap- or claw-type wrench will grip much more positively. The strap-type wrenches won't work if there's no room around the side of the filter (some have a swivel joint for side clearance issue, but can be difficult to develop enough torque if the swivel has to be angled a lot). Each strap-type covers a range of filter diameters, so you have to get the right size (made in 3 or 4 size ranges to cover all filter diameters).

Claw type:
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using the larger filter helps reach it instead of the standard short filter.
strap wrenches can be hard to get in after the shorter style one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks everyone - Peva which of these tools would you get - I can also use either on my Jeep so that's great.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
using the larger filter helps reach it instead of the standard short filter.
strap wrenches can be hard to get in after the shorter style one.
Longer sounds smart - what filter size do you use - what make and model do you recommend? Bigger is better - but do you run the risk of hitting this on the ground? Is it then the lowest part of the car? Can it scrape bottom on a pothole? I just don't want to be without oil far from home. Haha...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Buy something like this and a few 3/8" drive extensions of different lengths if you don't already have them.

I see the beauty in this - if it fits well - Ronbo what filter do you use and is that the exact wrench brand? Peva makes some good points and his choice can do both my vehicles.
 

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Thanks everyone - Peva which of these tools would you get - I can also use either on my Jeep so that's great.
View attachment 41929 View attachment 41928
Either one.

A couple of comments:

(1) The first one (which I have and use exclusively now) only works in the loosening direction, it looks like the 2nd one works for both loosening and tightening - BUT you only need it for loosening. Installing the filter with a little oil on the gasket can be tightened to the required 3/4 turns by hand (unless you are lacking hand or wrist strength). It is only when loosening that you need the extra torque of a tool. (Actually, now that I think about it, you can't grip the 2.7 filter with your hand since the filter is fully recessed into and fully surrounded by the oil pan - but I no longer have either of my LH cars, so it's not a problem for me).

(2) This type of filter wrench is a little awkward at first because you pretty much need both hands to get its jaws opened just enough to slip over the end of the filter, while you rotate the ratchet handle with the other hand to get the claws to start gripping the filter, but after you get the hang if it, it's not too difficult.

(3) Again, I got tired of buying the end-cap type wrench only to have it be unusable because it would slip around the filter before applying enough torque to break the filter loose, and the strap type filter won't work unless you have enough swing room around the filter for the handle - can be a problem on our cars.

YMMV!

Longer sounds smart - what filter size do you use - what make and model do you recommend? Bigger is better - but do you run the risk of hitting this on the ground? Is it then the lowest part of the car? Can it scrape bottom on a pothole? I just don't want to be without oil far from home. Haha...
3.2/3.5 filter is well above protective surrounding hard stuff, so there's no risk with the longer filter.

On the 2.7, the filter points straight down. The end of the regular filter is above the lowest part of the oil pan, but the end of the long filter would be below the oil pan (I'm not sure by how much). I know a lot of people use it anyway on the 2.7 - I don't know if anyone ever posted of one getting bashed.
 

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Longer sounds smart - what filter size do you use - what make and model do you recommend? Bigger is better - but do you run the risk of hitting this on the ground? Is it then the lowest part of the car? Can it scrape bottom on a pothole? I just don't want to be without oil far from home. Haha...
i know hastings numbers.
long is lf115, and short is lf107.
i think fram is ph8?
don't quote me on the fram number.
i use hastings lf115.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks guys!!

It seems that this Fram PH8A is the same as a Hastings LF115.

My Home Depot has it in stock - but is this a good filter?

Also what weight oil would use and does brands matter?
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some people have a fear of fram, but it's usually the go to or at least number type for many.
if that's the lf115 equivalent, that's it.
a little easier to get at than the shorter.
i recommend a 5-40 for good summer/winter needs.
brands- whatever you feel comfortable with.
a good synthetic will take you 5-8k miles between changes.
i'd find an additive with some zddp in it too.
these new oils aren't always good for old engines.
although they go farther and stay cleaner it seems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I use this in my Jeep since it has ZINC and the 4.0L was designed long ago by AMC. Will this be safe in my Concorde 3.5L?
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Where do you buy your Hastings LF115 oil filters?

Seems all these are the longer type - I used a Fram PH8A in my Jeep - but people do hate Fram...

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i used to work at a shop that sold them.
last one i used was a fram.
it was at the store i got the oil.
i'm in canada. i can't get a filter from home depot:)
phone around to a few shops and you might find a different brand.
so i forgot the A in the part from fram. i wasn't sure of the number as i haven't been around fram for years.
 

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I use this in my Jeep since it has ZINC and the 4.0L was designed long ago by AMC. Will this be safe in my Concorde 3.5L?
View attachment 41931
That's a very good oil - straddles the overlapping zinc specs for both gasoline and diesel because of the medium level of zinc. I used it for several years on all my vehicles, including my two Concordes. I still use it in my '85 F150, but went with a lower viscosity (5W-30) Pennzoil Platinum in two relatively new (2015 and 2018) Mitsubishis. The theoretical concern with higher levels of zinc is that supposedly it can damage catalytic converters, but I question if it's a real problem at these low-to-moderate levels (it's still below the max. allowed for gasoline engine oil rating).
 

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If you're going to use Fram, you might want to bump it up to Tough Guard - 99% vs. 95% filtration.

Purolator Pure One is good too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Great info as always - Thanks!
 
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