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Discussion Starter #1
Thieves damaged the steering column and key lock. Column shift automatic tranny. 3.3L. Can't start it.
Looking for an easy way to get it out of Park for towing/moving it around... City trying to tow it away, so need to get it off the street quick.
Don't know if the interlock is vacuum or electrical, but it seems to need the engine running to move it out of Park.
 

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LOCK CYLINDER & SHIFT INTERLOCK CASSETTE
NOTE: On column shift models, when replacing lock cylinder, a NEW shift interlock
cassette MUST BE installed. On floor shift models, when replacing lock
cylinder, shift interlock cable must be adjusted after installing lock cylinder.
First Generation Dodge Intrepid service manual 96-97
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net
Removal
1. Disable air bag system. See DISABLING & ACTIVATING AIR BAG SYSTEM . Ensure negative
battery cable is disconnected and isolated from all other components.
2. Tilt steering column upward. Remove screws from lower cover on steering wheel. Tilt steering column
downward. Remove upper steering column cover from steering column.
3. Tilt steering column upward. Remove retaining screw from tilt lever on steering column. Remove tilt
lever and lower steering column cover. Using ignition key, turn lock cylinder to RUN position.
4. Note location of release tab on lock cylinder. See Fig. 3 . Depress release tab and pull lock cylinder from
lock cylinder housing.
5. On models with column shift, fully depress release tab on top of shift interlock cassette and remove shift
interlock cassette. See Fig. 2 . Slide shift interlock cassette from lock cylinder housing. Disconnect shift
interlock cable from latch on shift mechanism. See Fig. 2 .
6. On all models, if necessary to remove lock cylinder housing from steering column, remove combination
switch and ignition switch. See COMBINATION SWITCH and IGNITION SWITCH under
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION.
7. Center punch heads of lock cylinder tamper-proof bolts. Using 1/4" drill bit, drill out bolt heads on lock
cylinder tamper-proof bolts until bit contacts hardened washer under bolt heads. Remove lock cylinder
housing from steering column. Remove old bolts from lock cylinder housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks so far...
How does the shifter interlock know the engine is running? Electrical? Vacuum?
If vacuum, can I just apply vacuum somewheres?
BTW, it's snowy, cold, 20's F here in Toledo, N.W. Ohio...
 

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The procedure is talking about turning the ignition key to the RUN position. Not actually starting the car.

Don't know how much damage was done. You may have to pull what's left of the ignition lock cylinder out, etc.
 

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As far as the immediate need for towing - can they put the front wheels on a dolly?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Everybody has a flatbed truck now and don't want to deal with it... especially since they're already busy with bad weather...
Before this happened, it seemed the engine had to be running a few seconds before the shift out of Park was allowed, or if the engine wouldn't start, spinning it fast for a few seconds with the starter and a jumped battery would sometimes allow it, so I thought maybe it worked by vacuum or computer... or is it just a simple mechanical thing that is now broken?
Guess I'll put an electric heater in the car and dig into it per instructions above... The Parking Lady didn't come yet at 10:AM or 8:AM like last week... so far...
 

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Here's the Fig 2 referenced above.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you... saw that stuff when I tore into it... appears to just be a mechanical interlock next to the lock cylinder...
Next problem appears to be a favorite Chrysler FWD tranny problem. Shifter shaft seizes up from rust where it goes into the tranny...

That's how I lost my nice LHS with moonroof, pinstriping, spoiler wing on back... It was at the dealer for 4 recalls and they had so many instead of parking it indoors or on pavement, they parked it over damp grass until the shifter shaft froze up... Dragged out fixing the recalls until the Chrysler 2009 every 20 years bankruptcy when it was still sitting there waiting... Then they disappeared it... nothing I could do about it...
 

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Are you sure it's not the shifter cable corroded and binding/seized inside the sheath? That's a common issue on our LH cars.
 
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yes indeed this is VERY likely to have happeend too, and does happen with cables quite often, especially in high road salt and high humidity locations, and where cables are never oiled lubed etc. i would pull one end of the cable off and try to pull push it see if it will slide, operate, if the cable will actually physically slide within the sheathe/housing, run lots of lube/penetrating oils down the cable inside the housing.sheathe.
I've had to do this with old style metal speedo cables often too, just did for my old '75 C20 work/DD truck the other day,, in fact.,,,, to free it up, the cable was actually one o had laying ariound to replace the origina that was twisted off at the transmission end and sepaated totally broken off,

lube etc. was old and dried up and binding bouncing the speedo needle, so held the speedo end of the cable way up high and i soaked lube down the cable entire length of it really good a few times with pentrating oil, the good stuff too,, and not that cheapo watered down WD 40 garbage that jut dries out evaporates basically in 10 seconds..
or at least use chain and slide lube spray.. for garage door tracks and rollers etc,. i keep some of that around here too, this is great stuff as well..



Are you sure it's not the shifter cable corroded and binding/seized inside the sheath? That's a common issue on our LH cars.
 
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