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Discussion Starter #181
It was $2.99/gal so not that bad at all really. I asked they guy in the store "how fresh" the ethanol free was and he just laughed... He said they sell more of that than anything else.

I wonder if there's any way to "test" it... see if it's "really" ethanol free as advertised.
 

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Discussion Starter #189
Oh wow thanks guys! The "kits" are fairly cheap too...

Tell you what though, the car is running great on the fill-up of the non-ethanol. I don't see a need to test their product after all. I was thinking about it; they've been selling it for at least a few years that I know of, and with the hot rod shop right next door, somebody would have caught on by now if they weren't on the up and up.


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Discussion Starter #190
Oh, and I fixed my speedometer yesterday! Super happy about that too as it was the ONLY thing that wasn't working on the instrument cluster.

Evidently the old man must not have plugged it back in all the way when he pulled the cluster out to change the light bulbs. I finally had the chance to remove the bazillion screws from the bezel and pull the cluster forward enough to get my hand behind it and push the cable back into the speedo gauge properly until it made the "thooock" sound.

Yay! I don't have to say "hey Siri, start the speedometer app" anymore :)


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Discussion Starter #191
The speedometer app is actually useful as a tool to see how accurate the actual speedometer is. Of course there's a slight lag if my connection isn't a full 4-5 bars. The physical speedo is pretty much spot on!


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Cordobing!
 

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Here's what you need Ed-Doba. An EFI Throttle Body conversion kit. Only $2477.95!



 
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Discussion Starter #194
So the car started giving me problems today again. Same kind of deal; had her running to warm up in the driveway, then she stalled and wouldn't start back up again. This time, I decided to check for spark while it was not starting... guess what, NO SPARK! I checked all the wires and tried again, still nothing.

So I hopped in the Civic and ran up and bought a new coil.... STILL NO SPARK! Damnit... I give up for today.. :/
 

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So the car started giving me problems today again. Same kind of deal; had her running to warm up in the driveway, then she stalled and wouldn't start back up again. This time, I decided to check for spark while it was not starting... guess what, NO SPARK! I checked all the wires and tried again, still nothing.

So I hopped in the Civic and ran up and bought a new coil.... STILL NO SPARK! Damnit... I give up for today.. :/
Ed, do you know which ignition system is on there? A pic of the distributor and coil would tell me.
 

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Discussion Starter #196
Distributor can be seen in this pic (I've since replaced the cap and rotor and wires)




Here's the coil I pulled out of it. The replacement one "looked" like the right one ...but I still have no spark.

The coil reads "Use with an external resistor" (you can see the white resistor on the firewall in the above pic behind the distributor)



And here's the ECU that's mounted on the right side of the engine bay

 

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Ignition Control Module NAPA TP51 | eBay

Back to the Allpar links Bill posted a couple pages back, on the notes on right hand side was a write up/repair/resolder on the TP 51 module...........

I don't think you wasted your money replacing that coil, did you grease the rotor? Wonder if the resistor might be part of the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Back to the Allpar links Bill posted a couple pages back, on the notes on right hand side was a write up/repair/resolder on the TP 51 module...........
I'm not seeing that writeup Hank. Which post by Bill???
 

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LA Engines, when the write about lean burn hit the link

Randy Miller wrote: Most people did away with Electronic Lean Burn, I think, because it was new technology and fear of “that electronic black box.”

Back then, mechanics were being introduced to electronic devices never seen before in the automotive industry. I, on the other hand, was into electronics, and it fascinated me to know what was in that black box. I studied the system, learned how it worked, and eventually had local mechanics call me whenever a car came in with this system. Most of the problems turned out to be normal ignition or fuel problems, but, because it had “that black box,” it must be the problem.

As years have gone by, I have found some problems with the computer itself. For example, I started my 1977 Chrysler Newport (with the original 400 Lean Burn engine) on morning and it was running fine and then for no reason it died. I started it again only to find it died a few second later. I traced the problem to the spark computer.

I took it apart, digging out the potting silicone to reveal the circuit boards. After some cleaning, I found a bad solder joint on one of the circuit boards. I got to thinking, what is the biggest problem with electronics in this application? Heat and vibration.

I retouched all solder joints, replaced the electrolytic capacitors, and repotted the boards back into the housing with potting silicone. The silicone was not cheap, but it put the unit back the way it was produced. After reinstalling it, the engine started and ran fine.

If Chrysler had mounted the unit on the body instead of the air cleaner as they did in production, I think a lot of these problems could have been resolved.

Chrysler broke the ground for the first computer controlled engine and I think they would not have had the problems they did back then if they would have taken a few extra steps. All car engines are now computer controlled thanks to their engineering team. Heat and vibration don't mix very well with electronics.

Yes, my old Chrysler still runs with the original ELB system!
 

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Discussion Starter #200
LA Engines, when the write about lean burn hit the link

Randy Miller wrote: Most people did away with Electronic Lean Burn, I think, because it was new technology and fear of “that electronic black box.”

Back then, mechanics were being introduced to electronic devices never seen before in the automotive industry. I, on the other hand, was into electronics, and it fascinated me to know what was in that black box. I studied the system, learned how it worked, and eventually had local mechanics call me whenever a car came in with this system. Most of the problems turned out to be normal ignition or fuel problems, but, because it had “that black box,” it must be the problem.

As years have gone by, I have found some problems with the computer itself. For example, I started my 1977 Chrysler Newport (with the original 400 Lean Burn engine) on morning and it was running fine and then for no reason it died. I started it again only to find it died a few second later. I traced the problem to the spark computer.

I took it apart, digging out the potting silicone to reveal the circuit boards. After some cleaning, I found a bad solder joint on one of the circuit boards. I got to thinking, what is the biggest problem with electronics in this application? Heat and vibration.

I retouched all solder joints, replaced the electrolytic capacitors, and repotted the boards back into the housing with potting silicone. The silicone was not cheap, but it put the unit back the way it was produced. After reinstalling it, the engine started and ran fine.

If Chrysler had mounted the unit on the body instead of the air cleaner as they did in production, I think a lot of these problems could have been resolved.

Chrysler broke the ground for the first computer controlled engine and I think they would not have had the problems they did back then if they would have taken a few extra steps. All car engines are now computer controlled thanks to their engineering team. Heat and vibration don't mix very well with electronics.

Yes, my old Chrysler still runs with the original ELB system!
Thanks Hank, but he's talking about repairing the original lean burn circuit board there, not the TP51 ECU module. Remember, all of that lean burn stuff has been done away with and converted on my car.
 
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