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Discussion Starter #1
Okay yall, I need some help. I bought a 2000 intrepid (3.2 120,xxx miles looks rough but ran good) it had been sitting for a minute before I got it. After a few days of getting it and getting it road ready and some exhaust & brake work done, I decided to give it an oil change. I know i did something wrong here and not sure how to fix it or if I'm screwed. I put a nicish filter given from orielys and some cheap 5w30 in after the oil change, and now there is some tick/clacking sounds consistent with the rps but only at certain rpms. Starting up and idling there is absolutely nothing, little rev nothing. Once it gets to bout 2k it makes the sound upon hitting the gas but as it gradually idles back down there is not sound. Is this a lifter issue, or a rod knock? Please let me know if you want anymore info, can take a vid if necessary. Prior to this oil change there was no sounds, tick, knocks or anything.
 

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Not saying this is the case, but things can be put in the oil to quiet down a marginal situation. Changing the oil removes the "thickener". It might be instructive to make a video with the engine steady at different rpms, plus while lightly accelerating and decelerating and while under moderate acceleration and deceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I really hope that is not the case as I ld like to not send a rod into outer space, however I can sit it at certain rpms with no tick/rattle as well as startup and idle is fine. It also only seems to do it after the car has been running a little while. Can you post videos on here?
 

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To post a youtube, simply paste the complete URL into you post.
 

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Suggestion: Get some Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. (It's a synthetic.) Most Walmarts have it on the shelf @$22/5 qts.

It isn't going to hurt a thing and you may find that the bump in operating temperature viscosity will work. Of course if something's getting ready to break loose, it probably won't prevent that. But it might add to your information.
 

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could just add a can of stp or lucas oil supplement to bump viscosity.
if it makes a difference, use a heavier grade next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update: I redid the oil change with most recommended to spec 10w40 and a mopar oil filter, no change. I will try to get a video and post a link in the comments later after work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Few day update, here is a video of the sound, this is how it sounds after the motor and oil has all warmed up, from start there is almost no sound.

 

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Woober Goobers!
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Jasper engines!
 

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For some reason, the video isn't playing. It may be that the site requires you to have a certain number of posts before it will allow you to post videos (unless you just copied the URL incorrectly).

Post just the part of the youtube URL after the "v=", and one of us will get the URL from youtube and post the video.
 

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Ron - Are you able to see the video?

Edit: Now it's working.

Yeah - sounds bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Under load meaning driving? Yes, from start theres almost no sound even when driving, once warmed up about 10 or 15 minutes or so it gets like this in video, but still never at idle, and only seems to do so when I'm pressing on the gas, after letting off the gas theres not much if any sound as it idles back down. I'm almost certain I'm about to send a rod into outer space, too bad I spent all my money on buying the car, fixing up so much and getting it legal
 

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Bummer Dewd!
 

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Curious that it doesn't do it until it gets warmed up completely. In my experience a rod knocking raises hell when under load regardless of pretty much everything else. Also, to my ear this doesn't sound like a rod knock but that could be the video and speakers. In a way it almost sounds like extreme pre-ignition. (detonation)

Can you do real time monitoring with your OBD scanner? You might want to look at timing as RPMS come up.
 

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put a couple cans stp in and drive it.
depending on how you want to go about a repair matters on your next move.
buy a good used engine from a wrecker, or rebuild yours.
if you want to rebuild yours, nows the time to start.
used engine. drive it til it worsens, and replace.

probably your bearings are just loose at this point and it takes a little inertia to make it slap.
you might get alright life from just a bearing replacce.
but they'll have to be looked at to make that decision.
try and give you a little hope here.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I appreciate all the help. Currently have no obd, exhausted on funds for a few weeks so I guess I'm gonna go for a used motor swap, and hope she holds out until I can get that done. Only take her about 25-40 miles a week, so hopefully she pulls through.
 

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Not to sound pushy but I'll say what I always say, DO NOT BUY parts (or engines) until you are certain that you need to.
 
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