DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello I read some posts and wanted to ask some questions. I bought a 2004 300 m with a blowed 3.5 engine , and my son in-law had a 2001 Concorde with a 3.5 with low miles, so we installed it in the 300 m. First start all was great , no codes! Yaa. Then I test drove it and it ran great, lots of power and no codes! Then it all went south, the engine over heats when I drive it a mile or so , real hot !! I pull over and it was cool outside and the cooling fans were not running and I also got locked out of it!! !!! Got it back to shop and (oh yes, I put new water pump and thermostat before any test drives) still no codes. Pulled thermostat and my son in-law had put it in backwards and I tested it before reinstalling it and it wouldn’t open!! So say that’s why it over heated, Not!! Any way new thermostat and second test drive and still overheats and four codes now! P2008,p0660,and p0700 and p1776 ,when it was driving and shifting perfect!! So I look at engine we installed and it doesn’t even have Short runner solenoid or manifold tuning valve solenoid built into it!!! So the engine we installed is different in that respect and now I am getting codes for the missing items !! would all this plus over heating be related ya think??? Shifting issues as well ??? Thanks Bob
 

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
50,360 Posts
Overheating could be due to not purging air out of the system? Do you know how to purge the air?

Your MTV and SRV codes due to not having an HO engine in place. I'm assuming you're using the engine wiring harness from the 2001? You can swap your original Intake Manifolds and engine wiring harness onto the replacement engine to take care of those. The 2001 model year was a hybrid for wiring between the two series. 1998-2000 and 2002-2004. I'd get your original intake manifold and engine wiring on the replacement engine before going further.

The P0700 and P1776 are Transmission codes. Particularly related to the Solenoid pack. You indicate it's shifting OK? Same as above with the engine wiring harness.
 
  • Like
Reactions: UmmScott

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
What ronbo said..

Theres that bleeder valve hidden in front right next to the upper rad hose connection.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
50,360 Posts
And your 2001 Concorde donor must either be a very late 2001 build that qualifies as a 2002 or you were mistaken about the year. A 2001 engine in a 2002+ car would've required a Camshaft Sprocket and Flywheel change to make it even fire up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,815 Posts
And your 2001 Concorde donor must either be a very late 2001 build that qualifies as a 2002 or you were mistaken about the year. A 2001 engine in a 2002+ car would've required a Camshaft Sprocket and Flywheel change to make it even fire up.
Also the egr ports would have had to been blocked off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hello I read some posts and wanted to ask some questions. I bought a 2004 300 m with a blowed 3.5 engine , and my son in-law had a 2001 Concorde with a 3.5 with low miles, so we installed it in the 300 m. First start all was great , no codes! Yaa. Then I test drove it and it ran great, lots of power and no codes! Then it all went south, the engine over heats when I drive it a mile or so , real hot !! I pull over and it was cool outside and the cooling fans were not running and I also got locked out of it!! !!! Got it back to shop and (oh yes, I put new water pump and thermostat before any test drives) still no codes. Pulled thermostat and my son in-law had put it in backwards and I tested it before reinstalling it and it wouldn’t open!! So say that’s why it over heated, Not!! Any way new thermostat and second test drive and still overheats and four codes now! P2008,p0660,and p0700 and p1776 ,when it was driving and shifting perfect!! So I look at engine we installed and it doesn’t even have Short runner solenoid or manifold tuning valve solenoid built into it!!! So the engine we installed is different in that respect and now I am getting codes for the missing items !! would all this plus over heating be related ya think??? Shifting issues as well ??? Thanks Bob
Also the egr ports would have had to been blocked off.
Also the egr ports would have had to been blocked off.


Morning forum!! I read everyone’s reply’s and thank you for that! I will swap the intakes and engine wiring harness !! And to bleed the air from the block I purchased a “Airlift “ tool to do the bleeding! So do you guys think the transmission issues could be engine related as well ? Like going into limp home mode?? Thanks for the help! By the way , does anyone know what the metal T fitting , that has a coolant hose from coolant reservoir to it and a vacuum hose to intake and to the head is called and the use of it??? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Morning forum!! I read everyone’s reply’s and thank you for that! I will swap the intakes and engine wiring harness !! And to bleed the air from the block I purchased a “Airlift “ tool to do the bleeding! So do you guys think the transmission issues could be engine related as well ? Like going into limp home mode?? Thanks for the help! By the way , does anyone know what the metal T fitting , that has a coolant hose from coolant reservoir to it and a vacuum hose to intake and to the head is called and the use of it??? Thanks.
 

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
50,360 Posts
That's the PCV Heat Exchanger. You want that on there.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the responce Ronbo!
morning , i replaced the intake with the original car engine intake and engine wiring harness and then used my new Airlift tool to vacuum the coolant system. Started engine and idled in shop for 20 minutes and it never over heated but took on drive and it started overheating right away , code reader showed 256 deg and climbing !! Both fans were running , coolant system was full!!! Now what???? Could there still be air in the system or just bad design in engine?? I have read a post about thermostat relocated to upper radiator hose ! Any thoughts on that?? Thanks guys!!! Transmission codes still!! Would i get codes for transmission if in limp home mode?? Also different note , drivers door keeps locking me out while its running!!!!!! I hate this car!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
So sitting and idling for 20 minutes and the car didn't have any issues but the minute you started driving it, it began to overheat?

Is there adequate airflow passing through the rad at speed? (Air passing through the A/C condenser and Rad sufficiently?) A build up of leaves, bugs and road detriment can stop air from passing through the rad and greatly impact the cooling system.

Another thing to check would be the coolant temp sensor. It could be failing and showing a false reading.

You are 100% certain you have no small leak causing air to get into the system that could cause the overheating? Would partially explain why it does't overheat while idling (slowly losing coolant at idle) but starts over heating when the engine is under load.

Hopefully it is something simple.

As for the door, I am uncertain as I have never had an issue similar to that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Hello. Yes at idle it didnt overheat. Fans were off. On the drive it started overheating very fast. Had my scope hooked up and coolant temp got up to 156 deg. While driving!,stopped at shop and both fans were running. Shut it down!!!! I had the radiator out when i installed engine. Looked to be a new one. I just purchased this car for repair and sell.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,892 Posts
Hello. Yes at idle it didnt overheat. Fans were off. On the drive it started overheating very fast. Had my scope hooked up and coolant temp got up to 156 deg. While driving!,stopped at shop and both fans were running. Shut it down!!!! I had the radiator out when i installed engine. Looked to be a new one. I just purchased this car for repair and sell.
156°. Is that °F (not hot), or °C (very hot!)? Or did you mean 256°F?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ronbo

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
50,360 Posts
Why didn't you update your original thread on this problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hello I read some posts and wanted to ask some questions. I bought a 2004 300 m with a blowed 3.5 engine , and my son in-law had a 2001 Concorde with a 3.5 with low miles, so we installed it in the 300 m. First start all was great , no codes! Yaa. Then I test drove it and it ran great, lots of power and no codes! Then it all went south, the engine over heats when I drive it a mile or so , real hot !! I pull over and it was cool outside and the cooling fans were not running and I also got locked out of it!! !!! Got it back to shop and (oh yes, I put new water pump and thermostat before any test drives) still no codes. Pulled thermostat and my son in-law had put it in backwards and I tested it before reinstalling it and it wouldn’t open!! So say that’s why it over heated, Not!! Any way new thermostat and second test drive and still overheats and four codes now! P2008,p0660,and p0700 and p1776 ,when it was driving and shifting perfect!! So I look at engine we installed and it doesn’t even have Short runner solenoid or manifold tuning valve solenoid built into it!!! So the engine we installed is different in that respect and now I am getting codes for the missing items !! would all this plus over heating be related ya think??? Shifting issues as well ??? Thanks Bob
You need to get the computers out of the car you took the motor out of
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
The donor car is gone!! I read so many post on this over heating problem. Any one read the post about installing a inline thermostat in top raditor hose and removing the lower thermostat??? The poster on this said it solved his over heating!!! Any thoughts? Thanks
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top