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Discussion Starter #1
I have a problem. During the winter my 3.5 would run smooth, but now that the weather is in the 80's the engine will start to vibrate when the temp gauge needle reaches the halfway mark. The temp is usually below that when the weather is cold or I am on the freeway, but in city stop and go traffic where the temp gauge shows the halfway mark the engine shudders and starts to vibrate but goes away when the car is allowed to cool down. My oil level is fine and I have more than enough coolant, I do not run the air conditioning and I have the flickering oil light problem so could this be sensor or oil pump related?
 

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Thats probably your enging going up a few rpm's because of the cooling fan turning on. But i'd definately check out that oil light problem. Your oil system is nothing to be taken lightly, your engine depends on oil!
 

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Make sure the the oil is the right weight, like 10w30.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The fans do work to my knowledge but I had best check them while they are running to see if the vibration is coming from them. The oil light is top on my list now but as a stereotypical broke college student it will have to wait a while. I had even thoght that I might have a dirty IAC but it will be hard to check since the original owner used some kind of cement glue on it to hold it down.
 

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You should check the oil pressure with a mech. guage. A bad oil pressure switch is a common problem, easy to change and cheap.
 

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Yes the oil pressure switch is a very common problem on the 2nd gens. A TSB was issued for the '98 and '99 models, but there's been the same problem right up to the Concorde/Intrepid's final production year 2004. Here and there, I do see some 1st gen treps with oil light issues that sound very much the same as the 2nd gen issue. I believe you will find it near the oil filter, and it will have a one wire connector attached to it. Typically, they develop a leak inside so that at idle when oil pressure is lower, there is oil pressure on both sides of the switch. And since the electrical side also has a spring, you end up with spring and oil pressure on that side and it closes the switch causing the light to come on. Try replacing that first, as its only about $20 and no more than 1/2 hour of your time. After that if you still keep getting the oil light, get the pressure checked out ASAP.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, I'm going to do that. I have an honest mechanic, a dying breed, so he'll be up front about it. Mabye this would explain why the oil light flashes once when I slow down and the car does its customary bump shift (This car is not going to to win the 2006 reliability award is it?)
 
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