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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I've got an 04 Intrepid SE with the 2.7L and have been chasing an EVAP issue for 7-8 years. Short story is my grandfather bought the car new, been garage kept since day one and now has 80k miles on it. Since then both him and my grandmother have passed and my grandma gave me the car when she stopped driving a year or so ago (just lost her a few months ago at the prime age of 93). That said, the car has had this issue for a long time and I would like to get it fixed. I know my grandma had taken it to multiple shops and none could figure it out. Smoke tested and did whatever checks they did, but my guess is they were told to keep costs to a minimum since it didn't effect how the car ran.

Since then I have run multiple smoke tests personally and found no leaks. Initially I only had code P0440 and tested the purge valve and NVLD and found the NVLD to be bad. So I replaced it. Code came back so I replaced the purge valve also since it was cheap and easy to do. Same issue. Now I have a P0456 which I never had before showing I have a small leak. That said I know the gas cap has been replaced multiple times and as I said, I have smoke tested this car to death with no signs of an external leak.

Could the thing be leaking internally? I saw something on a diagram called an EVAP Flow Control Valve or a Flow Management Valve and I'm thinking if that has a slight leak, it could be pulling in outside air through the charcoal canister if not sealing properly, if I am seeing this right. Problem is I don't see a replacement online and can't see one on the car. Maybe it's on top of the tank? Any input is appreciated.

Just so they're easy to see, car has codes... P0456 P0440 currently.
 

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Hi all, I've got an 04 Intrepid SE with the 2.7L and have been chasing an EVAP issue for 7-8 years. Short story is my grandfather bought the car new, been garage kept since day one and now has 80k miles on it. Since then both him and my grandmother have passed and my grandma gave me the car when she stopped driving a year or so ago (just lost her a few months ago at the prime age of 93). That said, the car has had this issue for a long time and I would like to get it fixed. I know my grandma had taken it to multiple shops and none could figure it out. Smoke tested and did whatever checks they did, but my guess is they were told to keep costs to a minimum since it didn't effect how the car ran.

Since then I have run multiple smoke tests personally and found no leaks. Initially I only had code P0440 and tested the purge valve and NVLD and found the NVLD to be bad. So I replaced it. Code came back so I replaced the purge valve also since it was cheap and easy to do. Same issue. Now I have a P0456 which I never had before showing I have a small leak. That said I know the gas cap has been replaced multiple times and as I said, I have smoke tested this car to death with no signs of an external leak.

Could the thing be leaking internally? I saw something on a diagram called an EVAP Flow Control Valve or a Flow Management Valve and I'm thinking if that has a slight leak, it could be pulling in outside air through the charcoal canister if not sealing properly, if I am seeing this right. Problem is I don't see a replacement online and can't see one on the car. Maybe it's on top of the tank? Any input is appreciated.

Just so they're easy to see, car has codes... P0456 P0440 currently.
Hmmm. Unsure about your EVAP codes but I do hope you either have enough to replace that water pump or have the know-how to replace it yourself if it hasn't been updated to the new design yet. I would advise you to do that ASAP if that's the case because as you may know, it's one of the Acilie's heels of these engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmmm. Unsure about your EVAP codes but I do hope you either have enough to replace that water pump or have the know-how to replace it yourself if it hasn't been updated to the new design yet. I would advise you to do that ASAP if that's the case because as you may know, it's one of the Acilie's heels of these engines.
Cars literally apart right now as I type this getting the upgraded pump installed, timing tensioner block installed among a complete regasket and suspension refresh. I'm fully aware of how to make the 2.7 run forever. What I'm not able to figure out is this EVAP lol. Thanks for the heads up though.
 

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Cars literally apart right now as I type this getting the upgraded pump installed, timing tensioner block installed among a complete regasket and suspension refresh. I'm fully aware of how to make the 2.7 run forever. What I'm not able to figure out is this EVAP lol. Thanks for the heads up though.
Haha! No worries! Just didn't want another 2.7 to fall in the hands of someone who wasn't aware of that issue. I've really never gotten any codes for the EVAP in my 04 Intrepid SE so I wouldn't be much help but there are some guys on here that know every nut and bolt on these cars like the back of their hand. Hopefully they can help you find a solution
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Haha! No worries! Just didn't want another 2.7 to fall in the hands of someone who wasn't aware of that issue. I've really never gotten any codes for the EVAP in my 04 Intrepid SE so I wouldn't be much help but there are some guys on here that know every nut and bolt on these cars like the back of their hand. Hopefully they can help you find a solution
No worries 100% appreciate it. Lucky for my 2.7, my grandma only drove about 1500 miles a year and did an oil change once a year. The engine looks virtually spotless inside. Timing set has almost no wear at all. I think the only time this car ever saw redline was when I drove it 15 years ago and now this past year. Lol. She was babied her whole life and always inside. I see no reason to not see 300k with this car. So I'd like to not stare at a check engine light for the next 200k haha.

PS... I've even gone as far as adding a jlt catch can. Got the 18" charger wheels waiting to go on too once this engine is buttoned back up. Been debating adding an RT rear sway but part of me doesn't want to increase spring rate. I just love how the car rides and I know the 18" wheels will hurt that too
 

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No worries 100% appreciate it. Lucky for my 2.7, my grandma only drove about 1500 miles a year and did an oil change once a year. The engine looks virtually spotless inside. Timing set has almost no wear at all. I think the only time this car ever saw redline was when I drove it 15 years ago and now this past year. Lol. She was babied her whole life and always inside. I see no reason to not see 300k with this car. So I'd like to not stare at a check engine light for the next 200k haha.

PS... I've even gone as far as adding a jlt catch can. Got the 18" charger wheels waiting to go on too once this engine is buttoned back up. Been debating adding an RT rear sway but part of me doesn't want to increase spring rate. I just love how the car rides and I know the 18" wheels will hurt that too
Well damn. The book says to change the oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles so no wonder it's so clean. Also I didn't know that Charger wheels fit on the wheel hubs of an Intrepid. Mine has been babied most of its life but I didn't have the luxury to keep it in a garage until recently (I've owned it for almost 3 years now) and I've been able to do some significant things on it that I would not be able to afford if I wasn't a mechanic.

Great to see there's still one nice one out there somewhere! And I wouldn't doubt with the right care, it would go over 300k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well damn. The book says to change the oil every 3 months or 3,000 miles so no wonder it's so clean. Also I didn't know that Charger wheels fit on the wheel hubs of an Intrepid. Mine has been babied most of its life but I didn't have the luxury to keep it in a garage until recently (I've owned it for almost 3 years now) and I've been able to do some significant things on it that I would not be able to afford if I wasn't a mechanic.

Great to see there's still one nice one out there somewhere! And I wouldn't doubt with the right care, it would go over 300k miles.
Believe it or not my grandma used to change the oil every 3 months. It had like 300 miles on the oil and it would get new. At one point I was like grandma, I know what the book says, but the car can go a year. It's in the garage and it'll be fine. So yeah every 1000-1500 the thing got it's oil changed haha. She loved that car. It was her baby. She was really happy when she found out I was interested in it. I remember the day my grandpa brought it home, I always thought it was a really cool looking car.

Also google intrepid charger wheels. They look amazing and almost like a factory upgrade option. You'll want a set. I actually got mine off a Magnum. They fit a 245 nicely from what I read. So that's what I bought. Hopefully they fit lol.
 

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The evap system went thru several changes over the 7 years of 2nd gen production, so you need to make sure you have the '04 diagram. Diagram and description of control valve operation from '04 FSM is below. I don't claim to understand how it all works.

"Control valve" (item 10) - physically on top of fuel tank (?) and plumbed as shown:

Figure 1 (same as Figure 7)
Line Font Parallel Auto part Diagram


ORVR
DESCRIPTION
Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery (ORVR) System Schematic and components (Fig. 7).
OPERATION
The emission control principle used in the ORVR
system is that the fuel flowing into the filler tube (approx. 1” I.D.) creates an aspiration effect which draws air into the fill tube. During refueling, the fuel tank is vented to the vapor canister to capture escaping vapors. With air flowing into the filler tube, there are no fuel vapors escaping to the atmosphere. Once the refueling vapors are captured by the canister, the vehicle’s computer controlled purge system draws vapor out of the canister for the engine to burn. The vapors flow is metered by the purge solenoid so that there is no or minimal impact on driveability or tailpipe emissions.

As fuel starts to flow through the fill tube, it opens the normally closed check valve and enters the fuel tank. Vapor or air is expelled from the tank through the control valve to the vapor canister. Vapor is absorbed in the canister until vapor flow in the lines stops, either following shut-off or by having the fuel level in the tank rise high enough to close the control valve. The control valve contains a float that rises to seal the large diameter vent path to the canister. At this point in the fueling of the vehicle, the tank pressure increase, the check valve closes (preventing tank fuel from spiting back at the operator), and fuel then rises up the filler tube to shut-off the dispensing nozzle.

If the engine is shut-off while the On-Board diag- nostics test is running, low level tank pressure can be trapped in the fuel tank and fuel can not be added to the tank until the pressure is relieved. This is due to the leak detection pump closing the vapor outlet from the top of the tank and the one-way check valve not allowing the tank to vent through the fill tube to atmosphere. Therefore, when fuel is added, it will back-up in the fill tube and shut off the dispensing nozzle. The pressure can be eliminated in two ways: 1. Vehicle purge must be activated and for a long enough period to eliminate the pressure. 2. Removing the fuel cap and allowing enough time for the system to vent thru the recirulation tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The evap system went thru several changes over the 7 years of 2nd gen production, so you need to make sure you have the '04 diagram. Diagram and description of control valve operation from '04 FSM is below. I don't claim to understand how it all works.

"Control valve" (item 10) - physically on top of fuel tank (?) and plumbed as shown:

Figure 1 (same as Figure 7)
View attachment 42902

ORVR
DESCRIPTION
Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery (ORVR) System Schematic and components (Fig. 7).
OPERATION
The emission control principle used in the ORVR
system is that the fuel flowing into the filler tube (approx. 1” I.D.) creates an aspiration effect which draws air into the fill tube. During refueling, the fuel tank is vented to the vapor canister to capture escaping vapors. With air flowing into the filler tube, there are no fuel vapors escaping to the atmosphere. Once the refueling vapors are captured by the canister, the vehicle’s computer controlled purge system draws vapor out of the canister for the engine to burn. The vapors flow is metered by the purge solenoid so that there is no or minimal impact on driveability or tailpipe emissions.

As fuel starts to flow through the fill tube, it opens the normally closed check valve and enters the fuel tank. Vapor or air is expelled from the tank through the control valve to the vapor canister. Vapor is absorbed in the canister until vapor flow in the lines stops, either following shut-off or by having the fuel level in the tank rise high enough to close the control valve. The control valve contains a float that rises to seal the large diameter vent path to the canister. At this point in the fueling of the vehicle, the tank pressure increase, the check valve closes (preventing tank fuel from spiting back at the operator), and fuel then rises up the filler tube to shut-off the dispensing nozzle.

If the engine is shut-off while the On-Board diag- nostics test is running, low level tank pressure can be trapped in the fuel tank and fuel can not be added to the tank until the pressure is relieved. This is due to the leak detection pump closing the vapor outlet from the top of the tank and the one-way check valve not allowing the tank to vent through the fill tube to atmosphere. Therefore, when fuel is added, it will back-up in the fill tube and shut off the dispensing nozzle. The pressure can be eliminated in two ways: 1. Vehicle purge must be activated and for a long enough period to eliminate the pressure. 2. Removing the fuel cap and allowing enough time for the system to vent thru the recirulation tube.
Thanks! I'll have to mow that all over. I was using a similar but not correct diagram.
 

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Believe it or not my grandma used to change the oil every 3 months. It had like 300 miles on the oil and it would get new. At one point I was like grandma, I know what the book says, but the car can go a year. It's in the garage and it'll be fine. So yeah every 1000-1500 the thing got it's oil changed haha. She loved that car. It was her baby. She was really happy when she found out I was interested in it. I remember the day my grandpa brought it home, I always thought it was a really cool looking car.

Also google intrepid charger wheels. They look amazing and almost like a factory upgrade option. You'll want a set. I actually got mine off a Magnum. They fit a 245 nicely from what I read. So that's what I bought. Hopefully they fit lol.
Cool story! I got mine from my aunt. She bought her's slightly used from her local dealer. The original owners bought it down in Springdale AR (I still have the original roadside assistance card from all the way back then) They put about 2500 miles on it before driving up to near where my aunt lives to visit their daughter. They traded it in on a charger and my aunt swooped in and bought it. Apart from the water pump and the oil pressure sending unit, all she did was basic maintenance and it was always in the garage. She drives like a grandma most of the time and she always had it in for a service on time. It's being a pain to me now because it's old and things wear out over time. I want to keep it but I'm saving up for a Toyota of some sort that I can daily drive so I can causally work on my Dodge.
 

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From the '04 parts pdf. Control valve (item 9) - the dash in front of the 9 means the item isn't shown in the sketch. 🤷‍♂️
Vertebrate Guitar accessory Musical instrument Gesture String instrument accessory

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Believe it or not my grandma used to change the oil every 3 months. It had like 300 miles on the oil and it would get new. At one point I was like grandma, I know what the book says, but the car can go a year. It's in the garage and it'll be fine. So yeah every 1000-1500 the thing got it's oil changed haha. She loved that car. It was her baby. She was really happy when she found out I was interested in it. I remember the day my grandpa brought it home, I always thought it was a really cool looking car.

Also google intrepid charger wheels. They look amazing and almost like a factory upgrade option. You'll want a set. I actually got mine off a Magnum. They fit a 245 nicely from what I read. So that's what I bought. Hopefully they fit lol.
I've been looking at charger wheels on the Intrepid and I love how good they look! I'd love to see an update thread on how different the ride is because if it's not that bad, I'll probably be looking for those instead of the factory Intrepid R/T wheels.
 

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I've been looking at charger wheels on the Intrepid and I love how good they look! I'd love to see an update thread on how different the ride is because if it's not that bad, I'll probably be looking for those instead of the factory Intrepid R/T wheels.
Are they supposed to be a direct bolt-on or would I have to change out the wheel hubs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I've been looking at charger wheels on the Intrepid and I love how good they look! I'd love to see an update thread on how different the ride is because if it's not that bad, I'll probably be looking for those instead of the factory Intrepid R/T wheels.
Direct bolt on. The offset actually even looks better than factory. Wheels aren't tucked in anymore. Do a search on the forum, there's a thread that goes into all the details. I got my set for 300 bucks and they're a solid 8 maybe 9 out of 10. Had to look for a few months, but eventually found a set that wasn't beat up or corroded.
 
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