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Hey Keifer,

I spent the better part of 1 and 1/2 hours on my back trying different combinations of jumpers and key positions today and still cant find a way to jump this damn switch. There are three wires at the plug. NONE are hot constant, ONE is a hot ignition(purple), and the others are ground or just dead.

I got really pissed and figured with all the time I spent trying to bypass this damn thing, I should just buy a new sitch from the dealer (Allen Samuels Dodge here in Katy $70.13).

I tried to remove the sensor today and found that the check valve is bad, causing a leak as soon as I get about two full turns on the thing.

I spoke to the dealer and the service manager says that the problem is not the switch, but the check valve. The short tube that the valve sits in is facing the ground, causing all sorts of crud from the system to collect in it, in effect causing the sensor to see a reduced pressure. This might explain why I can tap the sensor and it then kicks the clutch in.

All total, the parts are about $90. Better than 98degrees!!!!

Check with your local dealer. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Actually, I went to a U-pull-it junk yard today and got a new tansducer with wire harness (from a 97, with a new connector) and paid only $5 for it. I should have pics of it soon when I get the rest of my film developed.
It was an easy install too. Too about 5 minutes and the A/C is finally fixed. Gotta love a $75 dollar part that works for only $5.
 

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Imagine my surprise when I find the very problem I am experiencing is at the top of the page! My AC clutch will not engage. I thought at first due to low refrigerant levels as the system does have a slow leak. I ran a hot wire to the compressor so it would run while I added some R134. After 2 cans the compressor still will not run on its own. I suspect a bad transducer as well, but am reluctant to spend the $87 till I know for sure, plus the fact that I will lose the 2 cans of refrigerant I have just added. Another reason to suspect the transducer or perhaps this check ball I read about earlier in the post is that I have used R134 with leak sealer in the past. I have since learned that this stuff can gum up a system. A problem which may be related is that I noticed back during the winter that the electric radiator fans had started to run all the time, even when the engine was cold. When I unplug the transducer the fans quit, when I plug it in they start again, even when the engine is cold. Could the transducer be telling the computer not to turn on the compressor and to run the fans all the time? Could it be a faulty coolant temperature sensor causing both problems?
Thanks for any help.
Kywookie
 

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KY, the 134 w/leak sealer will do nothing more than ruin a perfectly good dryer.

Today I replaced the transducer and check valve. Pulled a 30lb. vacume for over 1hr and held it for 45min with no leaks. Then began to charge the system. After about a minute and a half, the high side guage pegged at over 500psi!!!!:confused: :mg: :crazy:

Shortly thereafter, the flipping hose blew off of the high side quick connect. I immediatley realized that there had to be a seroius:eek: restriction in the system.

After spending the next 30min blowing the dryer out, I began to draw a vacume again. Finally, we have cold A/C!!!:D

Just so you know, if you have a set of manifold guages, the low side should read close to 35 and the high side no more than 250 with the clutch engaged.

Enjoying the arctic blasts of a properly charged A/C system:D :D
Tiregod1:thumbsup:
 

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OK people, apparently we are all expierencing the same damn thing, so where do I find this transducer and this ball thing?? Can I do it myself or do I have to take it to yet another garage to vaccum out and pressurize again? Please help me, it is getting hot and humid here in MN.
 

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Hey Van, check out this picture, it's from an earlier post.



It helped me.

Goodluck:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Tiregod1
 

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No offense, but this has to be one of the most unorganized FAQ posts i've seen in a while. I'm so confused after reading all of the replys, i'm beginning to think AC is the same as Heat!

Anyways, I have a Code 33 is this for sure either a bad relay, or a bad pressure transducer? Will no freon in the system trip this code? Will a bad clutch coil trip this code? Could it be anything else?

Can the pressure transducer be tested or bypassed to determine if that is the problem?

Is there anyway to do a "dirty" test to see if there is freon in the system without AC tools?

Thanks for a clear explanation ahead of time!
 

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Ussually you can jump the Clutch if it has 2 wires gooing to it. pull it out and one goes to positive battery one to neg. it shoul run. do you have a set of gages. If you do and when you hook them up, if the Blue side(low side) goes in a vacuum them it is probbally a Expansion valve or orvice tube.
 

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I discovered that you don't lose the charge when changing transducers, the fitting it is screwed on to has a shrader valve in it. I just ordered a transducer for my 96 Eagle Vision. If this turns out to not be my problem I will probably be willing to sell it to someone else at a discount. Stay tuned.......
Kywookie
 

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Good luck selling it! I've been advertising mine for the last month with no luck. :)
 

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Intrepidude said:
Good luck selling it! I've been advertising mine for the last month with no luck. :)
I didn't even think to check the for sale forum here. I could have helped us both out. I paid $70 for mine, plus shipping. I would like to have known where I got have got one for $42. None of the aftermarket places had it. Maybe if you were real tight with the guy at the parts counter at the local dealer you could pick one up that cheap.
Kywookie
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Hell, you could even go to the parts yard and check for a wreck 97, in which they actually changed the style and everything. Thats what I did, and got mine for less than $5. Btw, when I get my pictures back, I'll post them and show the difference between the 2 transducers.
 

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the hissing is the refrigerent going through the expansion valve and expanding in the evaporator. Its perfectly normal, although if memory serves me right...it gets louder if the refrigerent charge is low. Dont quote me on that though. If its blowing cold air and all the functions on the climate control work, i doubt anything is wrong with it
 

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Update:
Installing a new transducer fixed my problems described in an earlier post. The compressor now runs when it is supposed to and the radiator fans do not run on high constantly.
Kywookie
 

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Discussion Starter #37
And I bet it was easy to do too. Probably a couple minutes of work, and easy enough to do yourself!
 

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yea i recharged it and it stopped the hissing but its so friggin weird and im totaly clueless on this but theres like a whining noise whenver the a/c and only when the a/c is and it is related to engine speed cause as the rpms get higher it gets louder directly proprtinal to rpms, i have no idea at all what this could be.
 
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'94 3.5 A/C transducer wiggle

I have a '94 3.5 with the 'wiggle the transducer and the A/C comes on' problem. I played around with the connector to no avail, and I'm guessing that the terminals inside the transducer are actually the problem. Inserting the connector slowly or pushing it slightly to one side must temporarily (maybe for 1 second, maybe for a day) make the connection again. And yes, the compressor clutch does engage, not just the fan.

I can get the new one from a dealer, but why won't any junkyards sell them? Even if they have the car, they want to sell it with the condensor or they say they 'can't' sell it to me.
 

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how many times have you needed to recharge it? Its possible that there is a little bit to little oil in the compressor and its making noise...but that tends to be more of a knocking noise. Either way...its probably a good idea to add some PAG 100 to the system since some has obviously leaked out with the refirgerent. Other than that...without looking at the car its kind of hard to say what it is. Have a tech look at it...they give free estimates usually.
 
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