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Re: '94 3.5 A/C transducer wiggle

pehoffer said:
I have a '94 3.5 with the 'wiggle the transducer and the A/C comes on' problem. I played around with the connector to no avail, and I'm guessing that the terminals inside the transducer are actually the problem. Inserting the connector slowly or pushing it slightly to one side must temporarily (maybe for 1 second, maybe for a day) make the connection again. And yes, the compressor clutch does engage, not just the fan.

I can get the new one from a dealer, but why won't any junkyards sell them? Even if they have the car, they want to sell it with the condensor or they say they 'can't' sell it to me.
The junkyards may be under the same false impression I was when I assumed that all the refrigerent would be lost if I removed the transducer. On the other hand, sometimes junkyard owners just have a different view on things and want to be contrary. If you found one that had the condensor already busted up then they would probably just sell you the transducer.
Kywookie
 
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Unfortunately, in my case, when I removed the transducer, all the refrigerant leaked out because the schrader valve was bad. So now I have a new schrader valve and a new transducer.

The cheapest I could find at a junkyard here was $25 - with no guarantees. I decided not to press my luck and spent the $90 at the dealer.
 

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where is the low side port on the 2.7? on the 3.2/3.5, it's right on top of the compressor, but on the 2.7, it isn't. didn't pay much attention to it when i swapped engines, but now i can't find the [email protected] thing... ?
 

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dont know...the 2.7 isnt a first gen motor...never looked at one in person...just follow the lines from the firewall...one should go directly to the compressor. this is the suction line and somewhere connected to it or on it there will be a service valve.
 

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I like to do my own work, but being able to put vacuum on the A/C
system seems to be the best way, but not the easiest without spending too many $ on equipment. Any tricks or shortcuts? Cheaper alternatives? I thought if I could fix the problem myself, then have it professionally charged if that would be better. If I do it myself and I finally figure out what it is (I'm thinking I have a leak somewhere) and have to tear into the system, how do I know how much replacement oil should be injected?

One more question: If the leak turns out to be the compressor, are the shaft seals hard to replace? Or is it too much trouble and better off with a new compressor.

All right, just thought of one more. Am I wasting $ by doing this myself? I checked one garage and they told me $100 just for finding a leak, if that is the issue. That's why I would rather do it myself. Advice is needed! Thanks!
 

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take it to a shop to get the vacuum pulled. A good vacuum pump costs big bucks and getting all the moisture out of a R-134a system is very important. It should only cost you $45-$55
 

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are the transducers the same from say a neon or stratus? cus when i went to the junk yard everysingle transducer was cut out of the LS'
 

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Could someone please explain to me how to jump across to start the AC compressor running so I can make sure it is charged?????
It hasn't worked since we had the car, and I decided to give it a try finally.
There is plenty of pressure, pushed in the low side valve to make sure there was pressure there.

EDIT: Did the jumpering, the compressure kicked in, I thought it was gonna choke the motor at first...heh
Tomorrw I will start with junkyards looking for a transducer......
 

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another question for those who know:

Is it necessary to flush the a/c system if I want to replace the a/c clutch?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Alright, I have a couple pics of when I changed out my transducer. They arent that great, but it gives you and idea of what it looks like and where it is located. There is a picture in the above posts of it that actually has a square around it, but it still isnt that great of a picture. Here is another


and here is a pic of the new transducer that I installed. The electrial connector is much more beefier and looks to withstand a lot more abuse than the old one.


Keep in mind, if your a/c doesnt work and you are having problems with your fans kicking on and off, the transducer is more than likely your problem. You can check this by either jumping the 12V across the a/c clutch relay, or by wiggling the transducer under the car while it is running and on stands with the a/c on to see if it kicks on or off.
 

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no...you shouldnt even need to open the system for such a procedure. But if youve taken the compressor off and left the system open for a long peroid of time.... a flush is in order becuase PAG oil like to absorb large amounts of water..make acid which makes leaks and then break down chemically and trash the compressor.
 

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ok good... thats what i wanted to hear :biggrin:

I havent taken anything apart yet - I just came to the conclusion that my clutch is at fault for my a/c not working.

Thanks!
 

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its probably not the clutch...test for power at the clutch to determine if it is the clutch. if there is power and its not engaging then its the clutch. The pressure tansducer fails a lot on these cars which would cause the clutch not to engage...also it could be a wire, relay, fuse..etc.
 

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yep, I checked for power issues. Clutch is getting power and I compared it to my '01's clutch. It appears that when I engage the a/c, the outer ring engages but the inner ring does not. Through comparison I noticed that the rubber ring in between the two is worn out and broken on my '97. So the conclusion I came to is that my clutch is fubar.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
You could probably pick up a new clutch at the junkyard for not too bad of a price. I'm sure that new ones are pretty expensive and that the clutch burning out in these cars isnt TOO common a problem. Maybe in the hot areas of the country but i doubt too many other places.
 

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I would get you one out the yard here, but there are no treps with em left here :( anywho...the compressor used in the trep is used in many other cars...so look up the model and look it up based on the compressor model...should be able to find other cars you can pull one off
 

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Just coming in the middle of the movie, but;
Do you observe the compressor engage, indicating that the fused clutch engage voltage is good? (fuse'B' in the power dist.block.)
The relay coil votage comes from fuse 21 in the dash block.
The pressure transducer is not a switch- be CAREFUL shorting out plugs! (I discovered this the hard way) Anyway, the black/light blue wire is sensor ground- which isn't REALLY vehicle
ground- just a common data path for all the sensors.
The dark blue wire is transducer SIGNAL- a 5v or less input to
the(gasp) PCM.
The 5v. signal voltage comes from the PCM on the remaing violet/white wire, into the transducer,which (I believe) is a pressure-variable resistor, giving the PCM data on the changing
system pressure.
the 'open' (disconnected) state may or may not confuse the PCM,
but I think jumping the full 5v signal to the PCM would definately
exceed range limit (voltage) it's expecting to see. Damn thinking boxes!
Hope this helps
 
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