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Transducer By-Pass

I do air conditioning repair on the side. I have a simple circuit which allows you to diagnose a bad transducer. The transducer is fed by a 5 volt signal which has 2.5 volts at the output in a static (no pressure) situation. With three resistors and a variable resistor I can makt the clutch engage and high speed fan come on.
 

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To bjlv..Quick AC question

Hey, you've done a great job in your AC discussion. My complements to you.

I am going to try to replace the evaporator in my 93 Intrepid. Have done some study, and am well aware of the care in getting out all the moisture, adding the dryer LAST and so on.

Quick question, I am replacing the evap, the Orafrice tube, and Expansion valve...I believe they also refer to that as the "H" valve??? Can you explain what the orafrice tube is for, and where it exists in the system,

I am presently driving around with my dash half apart. Not pulling out the Evap/core housing till the weekend. Thanks in advance.

-dave
 

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there is no orface tube on these cars. There is a expansion valve instead. The location of it is in the engine bay where the two lines come to the firewall on the passenger side. Depending on the nature of your failure it may not be necessary to replace it, and since it does not require the disassembley of the dash to replace you may just want to leave it alone.

Let us know about how long the job took and the difficulty...
 

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Thanks Bjlv

Thanks buddy. Well, since the evap appears to be bad, might as well replace all the componets associated with it.. Again, when the AC ran for the ONE day after a recharge, there was a solvent type smell in the passenger compartment...Just like the last time the evap failed, maybe 5 years ago...

I will take some photos along the way to catalog the job. I love this car, so despite some headaches, It is a labor of love, and I want to learn new things. i'll post them here when finished.

regards,

-Dave
 

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in all likely hood the evaporator failed becuase of acid build up in the system from water. Did you replace the reciever drier last time?

At any rate you should...and keep the lines you do pull plugged up during the job. Do the drier last and pull a long long long deep vacuum on the system. If you can..when you pull the vacumm run the engine to heat the engine bay up...this will help to boil off water in the system.
 

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Day one... Evap replacement

hey there friend..

Going back over my records... When the compressor LAST seized, I recall they did NOT replace the dryer unit. for reasons I cannot recall. The evap was replaced prior to that failure. Maybe 5 years ago.

Ok, so far so good. Spent the day removing the dash. and the AC/Heat plenium box.
The hardest part?.. Draining the coolant, and removing the hoses from the heater core. A real knuckle banger The PetCock on the radiator is a ***** to open due to location. Removing the line to the condensor helped, as was the removal of the compressor belt.

A Trick for future use...To hold up the dash, I grabbed what I could.... I had 1000 feet of cat 5 data cable in the shed...I cut off two pieces and lassoed the dash with the cord, using the visor hardware as an anchor. Unplugging all electrical harness' under the dash is essential, plus removal of the ground strap, and the hardware at the front of the center console...you can pull the dash back toward the seat, and just let it hang.

Once the three nuts on the firewall are removed, the torx studs removed from the expansion valve, then hoses disconnected, the box comes out easily. The tools to remove the hoses came from autozone, something like 8 bucks for the set of four.

Once you separate the plenium box with the many screws that hold it together, the damage to the evap is evident, at the bottom, in fact, the dye in the refigerant that leaked out coagulated at the condensation drain. I wiped it out the housing with soapy water, dried and then coated the plastic with armour all.

I actually have purchased the wrong Evap. The one I purchased is the Newer style, the one I need is the older style. The two look like they may be interchangeable, but the larger line up to the mounting flange of the expansion valve, is fabricated further away on the newer style. Which is called the "Serpantine" Newer sytel. So I gotta exchange for the old style. No biggie... That'll set me back a day due to the holiday...I'll just go rent a nice car for the interim.

And with the evap, they give you a bunch of o-rings.. that is cool.
And yes, I got a new dryer.. I'll put it in last!

Ok, as per your suggestion Bjlv.. I'll run the engine when I connect the vacumn pump. I take it you mean JUST the engine running for heat, and NOT with the AC compressor engaged??? I also have 8oz of pag 46 oil ..to pour into the evap..correct? And the pump is connected to the low side.. right?.. There are NO stupid questions..Right?? Wrong??. Whos on First??

Have a great Memorial Day, and thanks for your sage advice. I may try again to take pictures of the disassembly for those who may wish to try this. It is not so hard. Just takes some patience.

-dave
 

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Re: Day one... Evap replacement

dskalish said:

Ok, as per your suggestion Bjlv.. I'll run the engine when I connect the vacumn pump. I take it you mean JUST the engine running for heat, and NOT with the AC compressor engaged??? I also have 8oz of pag 46 oil ..to pour into the evap..correct? And the pump is connected to the low side.. right?.. There are NO stupid questions..Right?? Wrong??. Whos on First??


-dave
My reply is a little late...sorry about that. I meant run the engine to get more heat in the engine bay which will help boil off water in the a/c system. When i went to get oil for my system they gave me PAG 100 which is a different viscousity. If you havent gotten it back together yet i would ring a dealer and double check which is right though.

8oz sounds like way too much to add to the system unless you have flushed the entire system. I have seen several specs for how much oil the entire system holds and the most common is 5oz. So if you have insufficient cooling from the system youll need to remove some of that oil.

Shouldnt matter what side you connect the vac to...its all connected together. Althoug when you charge it you need to be on the low side for safety

Stupid questions? no, i have yet to fix my a/c LOL I need a new suction line, drier, and to flush the whole thing. I just dont like having the down time with the car and all the work ;)
 

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So I was sitting in my car (96 ES with ATC) with the A/C on, and all of a sudden, it shut off. Hasn't turned on since. Checked the pressure, it's okay. Shorted the relay, and the clutch turned on, and cold air came out. Put it a new relay, but the clutch still didn't turn on. Messed with the transducer wires (it has the two-wire one), and the compressor still didn't turn.

So... what's my car's problem?

Thanks.
 

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I purchased a used transducer from a 95' intrepid that a buddy was parting out, it was his but an accident caused it to be written off. I put the part in my car and no A/C. Now I have two of these transducers and both cannot be shot as his work fine before the accident, so at this point (after checking all the wires, fuses and relays) I assume that there is a bigger problem here that just the transducer. I know that there is a post for how to check the transducer and how to engage the clutch with a three wire transducer set up I just can't find it or just plain missed it, can anyone point me in the right direction?
 

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Help with A/C

Ok I removed the A/C unit hoses and the condensor how do I get the check engine light off with out a chip fpr the comp. becuse no i have fult codes for ac clucth and a voltage code . thanks

:bash:
 

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you might be able to put a resistor across the wires that go to the compressors clutch that is of the same resistance as the clutch cicuit. I dont know exactly what dodge used as criteria for a fault in this circuit so I assume that if you put a circuit on there to mimick the clutch being there the fault will go away.

However I would recomend asking around here somemore becuase i know there are other people on this forum who have removed the compressor for performance reasons, see what they did about it.

Good luck
 

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I've browsed through this thread and dont think i've come across the anwer to my question so i'll put it out there. On a recent trip i noticed that when the air is on (not necessarily the AC button but defrost or whatnot) there is this squeak/squeal sound coming from the passanger dash area. It only happens when some sort of air is on. Its been to cold to check it well (i'm at college without a garage). Just wondering if anyone has had this problem or would like to venture a guess as to what it is
 

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That is your blower motor. Mine did the same thing. You just need to get a new one. It is a pain in the neck to change... If you have/get a haynes manual it will give you the step by step.
 

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1993 Concord 3.5

Compressor not coming on have a ATC on this vehicle shows code 35 which is evap sensor. Is this the same as a low pressure switch or the transducer located by the dryer?
 

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This is a sensor inside the car in the heater/air conditioning enclosure. It is meant to keep the evaporator from freezing up.
 

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1993 Concord 3.5

Been having this problem I thought this was due to moisture in the system. I had a o'ring go bad can't remember whether it was the low or high side changed o'ring didn;t change dryer or vac system been freezing up ever sense. I had my evap changed about a year ago worked fine until I had to change the o'ring on the compressor. Do you think it could be a combo of the the both. I have checked the codes on the atc before never gave me any but was still freezing on low pressure line to expansion valve and into evap. I have a vac ordered but haven't recieved it yet. I was thinking about changing dryer and pulling a vac on it and recharging it since summer is coming up. It takes about 15inutes out on the highway and the evap starts to freeze. Have you ever had to change one of the evap sensors?
 

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Changing the sensor is not too bad. By not pulling a vacuum on the system you have moisture in the system. The vacuum allows the moisture (water) to boil out at a lower temperature. The receiver/drier is probably saturated. With moisture in the system it freezes into ice crystals and blocks the operation of the metering device (H-Block) this will allow th evaporator to reach a temperature that will allow it to freeze.

This is also extreemly hard on the compressor. It is pumping into a smaller orfice and is starving for the return refrigerant and oil.

The sensor is probably okay. It's just protecting the evaporator from freezing, which is it's job.
 
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